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Old 03-02-2009, 05:49 PM   #15
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Duner's Avatar
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Workhorse Chassis Owner
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Location: Fulltiming - Menifee, CA
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Originally posted by AFChap:
Any suggestions? Does the switch go bad, or perhaps have a rubber diaphram inside that may go bad?
Hey Paul, maybe I can help. I've had my 5.7 pump for 5 years and last fall it started taking longer and longer to turn off. It would run at low speed for 15-30 seconds, maybe a minute, before turning off.
Anyway, I pulled the pump head a part and found a good deal of calcium built up around the 5 valves. Just soaked in vinegar and it's been working now for 3 months.

Your problem probably isn't a crack in the diaphram, but just a leaky valve because of a particle or a thin layer of calcium. It's a easy fix if you have good access to pull the pump. Also, the replacement cost of the valve assy and the diaphram is expensive .... about $50-75 each.

Good luck,

Bill (Dune'r) & Helen
Last of the Chieftains, 2004 39T, W22, Banks Headers, Koni's, Safe-T-Plus, SMI brake
2013 Lincoln MKZ Hybrid towed 4-down
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Old 03-02-2009, 06:33 PM   #16
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Thanks, Bill. I'll open it up and see what I find after we get to our new location north of Austin tomorrow. I fooled with it some more today and found now it would not shut down at all, just keeps running at a slow idle. I removed it and put my "backup" pump in, a 2.8gpm, and found it works fine. When I took the screen filter apart, I did find a little bit of calcium and a bit a fine grit in it that wasn't really visible through the clear plastic.

While I was tinkering with it, I installed a toggle switch in the water pump compartment so I can turn it on and off at the pump without pulling the fuse ...always thought it was dumb that there is no switch there at the pump (same with the winterizing and bypass solenoids located in the same compartment ...their switches are inside the washer/dryer cabinet in the bedroom ...dumb!!)

Paul (KE5LXU) ...was fulltimin', now parttimin'
'03 Winnebago UA 40e / '05 Honda Odyssey toad
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Old 03-04-2009, 03:29 PM   #17
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I've had three of these pumps.

The first one, about 3 years ago, kept running with no demand on it. The tech at Shurflo asked if my pump had a 1/2" spacer built into it-- It did and they replaced it with a new model-- with a one piece pump housing. Then this one started leaking. I tightened all the screws-- It still leaked. I called Shurflo and they made arrangements for me to pick up one off the shelf at Camping World in New Hampshire. I gave them my old one in exchange.

The one I now have works okay. I just can't start it all the time with the bathroom on/off switch. I've bought two new switches and replaced the bathroom and the water bay switches. Sometimes it starts and other times it won't. The switch on the master panel (over the door) always starts it okay.

ShuFlo will work with you, thats for sure.

Good luck,
Max H,
2002 Newmar Mountain Aire, 37', 3778, W-22, 8.1 Vortac, Ultra Power upgrade, CAI (cold air intake), Taylor wires, colder plugs, Koni shocks.
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Old 03-04-2009, 04:14 PM   #18
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I got a reply back from an email to ShurFlo, and since the date on the pump is less than 3 years (9/06), if I ship it to them they said they will do whatever adjustment/repair needed. Since I have a good backup pump, I think I'll let them do it! When the original pump started leaking after 18 mo, they swapped it out for a new one (and GAVE me a 2.8gpm pump to use until they could ship the 5.7 to me!). There certainly is nothing wrong with their customer service.
Paul (KE5LXU) ...was fulltimin', now parttimin'
'03 Winnebago UA 40e / '05 Honda Odyssey toad
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Old 03-06-2009, 09:52 AM   #19
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Here is your exploded diagram:

The pdf states its for oem 5900-0201 and for aftermarket procuct number 5900-0211

Maybe that will help you.

Shurflo customer service is top notch. I had to deal with them and they were fantastic to deal with and they promptly took care of me with no if, ands, or buts.

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