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Old 10-28-2016, 01:37 PM   #15
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We can forget that to that because they used it then that maybe there is something better. When you try digging it out and removing it you may find that it is good stuff.
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Old 10-28-2016, 03:59 PM   #16
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Before you re-caulk any surfaces which were previously caulked with silicone caulking... make sure the surfaces are thoroughly/completely cleaned of the old caulking.... nothing, (not even silicone caulking), adheres well to silicone caulking.
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Old 10-28-2016, 04:50 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
that is a big gap you are filling with sealant..i also have been builder from '80-'03 and i always put appropriate round foam in all areas that gap..and i use the tip to tool my bead and hold tube or gun about 45% and the amount i put in is good when it is feeding thru the back of the tip.. i only hand tool when i cannot get tube or gun in proper and then i really try to not have that that tall thin film up or on the sides..it gets dirty so fast and cant tape around it as paint wont stick to it. lm not knocking you job as we all do things different/// my first thought on caulking is trying not to use silicone or butyl as there are so many choices that make nicer beads out of the tube and last as long or more if not properly applied.. and even silicone has many formulas for kitchen or bath or door trim ect.
beenthere,
If you are referring to the pictures I posted on resealing the roof-to-gutter seam, it's really not a very big gap at all. In fact, it's quite tight. My camera settings were on "Macro" for a real closeup pics. That makes that gap look like a canoe could fit in there and float down stream during a rain storm.
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Watching a pro applying silicone, or any other sealant you'd care to discuss, would make you swear it's an art form! Properly done with a correctly sized tip, it should need no "tooling", and should not be spread much more than the width of the seam you're caulking. For instance, an 1/8" gap in a seam should be filled with about 1/8" spread to either side of the seam. Gobbing it on, or spreading it out really isn't necessary, and can look pretty bad. Same could be said with any attempts to "tool" the material after it's been applied.

The trick is to use the pressure of the sealant coming out of the nozzle to fill the seam ahead of the tip (NEVER behind it!), and work at just the right speed, using just the right pressure on the caulk gun to prevent excess that will need to be spread out or dealt with. Done correctly (by varying the size of the tip and the angle the applicator is held at), the seam is filled, and the tip itself leaves the seam in back of it perfectly formed.

Beginners would do well to apply tape to areas on either side of a seam to prevent a terrible looking mess! Done right, even an amateur job can look pretty nice! Just get that tape off there ASAP.
ahicks,
Well Sir, you pretty much described the EXACT way I applied that SILICONE sealant in those roof-to-gutter seams. And, like I've stated a few times before, those seams took quite a bit of "gouging out" all the older sealant. A plastic scraper and, even a regular razor scraper was used but, very, very, carefully with no nicks. Then, some severe alcohol prep was used, SEVERAL TIMES! The first time I did it, over a year ago, is still flawlessly holding with not even a hint of breaking loose.



"We can forget that to that because they used it then that maybe there is something better."
??????????????????????????????
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Old 10-28-2016, 06:25 PM   #18
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Silicone/sealant removal: Silicone Removal-Re-mov/DSR5
If one is considering re-doing a joint, proper preparation is the key. Personally, I will never again use a silicone-based sealant on our RV. After 3-5 years, you can grad hold of one end of the bead with pliers and peel away the entire bead, most times leaving only the thin residue that must be removed before even more silicone will adhere properly.
I do not care if anyone else uses silicone, because it's their money and property.
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Old 10-29-2016, 04:50 AM   #19
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We can forget that to that because they used it then that maybe there is something better. When you try digging it out and removing it you may find that it is good stuff.


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We can forget that to that because they used it then that maybe there is something better. When you try digging it out and removing it you may find that it is good stuff.
?? That didn't make a bit of sense I should of read it back to myself. What I was trying to say is unless you really like the caulk you are removing there maybe better performing products out there other than what the build sheet said they used. JMO of course.
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Old 10-29-2016, 06:46 AM   #20
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?? That didn't make a bit of sense I should of read it back to myself. What I was trying to say is unless you really like the caulk you are removing there maybe better performing products out there other than what the build sheet said they used. JMO of course.
tmw188
Thanks for clearing that up.
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Old 10-31-2016, 09:14 AM   #21
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X-2 on Geocell Proflex RV Sealant

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FWIW, the silicone that Entegra uses isn't silicone. It's Geocell Proflex RV Sealant. It looks like silicone but is designed for RV use. Unlike silicone, it can be exposed to adverse weather conditions right after application and has excellent expansion and contraction properties to withstand the joint movement and temperature changes common to RVs. It bonds to many materials, even damp or oily surfaces that would allow silicone to peal off later. It stays flexible and is mildew resistant and doesn't need feathering.

Can't speak for the other manufacturers but I would assume that many of them use this as well due to the benefits available for speed in production. It most likely gets mistaken for silicone by many owners because it looks similar.
This stuff stays wear you put it
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Old 11-03-2016, 10:51 PM   #22
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I've heard people argue that coach manufacturers don't use silicone to seal the exterior joints after painting, when all it takes is a quick look at any DP to know they do. The trim joints on my Monaco lasted 7 years before some needed replacing. It is a science to do it correctly, but with the right size tip and careful application, a factory finish can be achieved. I still use the wet finger method for a smooth application.
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Old 11-04-2016, 06:20 AM   #23
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Just because it looks like silicone doesn't necessarily mean it is. A seal made with Geocell looks just like silicone. Geocell doesn't have the negatives that silicone does and is easier to apply and sets faster, which is why coach builders love it.
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Old 11-04-2016, 10:10 AM   #24
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Just because it looks like silicone doesn't necessarily mean it is. A seal made with Geocell looks just like silicone. Geocell doesn't have the negatives that silicone does and is easier to apply and sets faster, which is why coach builders love it.
Cruzer
Correct!

Jactravlusa
If for some reason you need to know type of caulk the RV manufacturer of your RV uses, and why, contact the manufacturer of your coach.

If you are re-caulking/re-sealing your coach I suggest you do as others have suggested/recommended.....use something other than silicone caulk.

(But it's your coach... you don't have to take advice from anyone).
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