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Old 10-18-2016, 07:20 AM   #1
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Silicone on outside trim

Just a question on how a 'properly applied' silicone bead should look or be applied to a factory new MH. I have noticed on a unit, a higher end unit, that the silicone bead was just applied and not sealed by feathering into position. It is my understanding, a 'true' silicone bead is NOT applied properly if not sealed by feathering to secure to the surface of applied area.

I will try to explain this by saying that this units silicone bead was just applied as a 'round looking' bead and not feathered in after the application.
This to me would not be a good thing because the bead could break loose
sooner or later by doing it this way.

Seems a strange question, but I think some on here are familiar with what I am talking about, could you please chime in and let me know your thoughts on this subject and whether or not I am just overthinking this.

Thanks!!
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Old 10-18-2016, 07:31 AM   #2
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I don't believe silicone is useful anywhere on an rv. I'm not even sure why the rv stores carry it. JMO
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Old 10-18-2016, 07:40 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by powderman View Post
I don't believe silicone is useful anywhere on an rv. I'm not even sure why the rv stores carry it. JMO
Thanks for reply, but I think most MH mfgs use the stuff to seal around trim areas. Haven't inspected all brands, but probably most do.
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Old 10-18-2016, 07:42 AM   #4
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All sealants should be tooled into the sealed joint to ensure intimate contact between the wet sealant and the bonding surface. Tooling also removes air bubbles and helps achieve the proper geometry of the sealant.


Contrary to popular belief, silicone sealants do have their place on rv's just as a variety of other sealants do. It is all about the application and how you use it. The biggest issue with using silicone is that it must be replaced with silicone as nothing else will bond to it. I have been specifying silicone sealants for over 30 years in the building industry and using it on my rv's for more than 15 years. It is just like anything else, it must be used correctly and for the proper application. With all sealants, the bonding surface must be properly cleaned and prepped.
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Old 10-18-2016, 07:52 AM   #5
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Zeb,

Thanks, I think you are totally correct on this question of mine. The silicone
should be, as you said, tooled in, meaning making good bonding and for actually a 'better' look. The better look is not the big deal here, mostly it
is whether or not the bead could break loose or not.

Thanks for your input !!
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Old 10-18-2016, 03:25 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jactravlusa View Post
Just a question on how a 'properly applied' silicone bead should look or be applied to a factory new MH. I have noticed on a unit, a higher end unit, that the silicone bead was just applied and not sealed by feathering into position. It is my understanding, a 'true' silicone bead is NOT applied properly if not sealed by feathering to secure to the surface of applied area.

I will try to explain this by saying that this units silicone bead was just applied as a 'round looking' bead and not feathered in after the application.
This to me would not be a good thing because the bead could break loose
sooner or later by doing it this way.

Seems a strange question, but I think some on here are familiar with what I am talking about, could you please chime in and let me know your thoughts on this subject and whether or not I am just overthinking this.

Thanks!!
Well,
A short story. My wife used to work for a large glass company in San Diego. I'd visit her on several occasions and bring her lunch or, we'd go out etc. But, I got to know many of the workers there in her shop and other shops of the same company. And, as many of you know, Silicone is used extensively in the glass industry, both interior and exterior.

I watched those workers many, many times as windows were installed, glass installed in frames, and much more on RVs, truck campers etc with the use of Silicone. Now, based on each individual application, the tech would decide if the application was "worked" or "tooled" or not. Many windows and window frames left those repair facilities with a Siliconed install and, no tooling was done. I watched some of them lay down a bead of Silicone that was so nice, it looked like a machine did it. And, from what I recall, none of those Silicone repairs/installs, ever came back.

I myself have used Silicone many times on many of my RVs with outstanding success. There are many that do not care for the use of Silicone on RVs. Well, that of course is up to them. I recently (right at a year ago) re-sealed the first 4-5' of roof-to-gutter seam/joint on both sides of my '04 Itasca Horizon with Silicone. I took some serious flaming for using it.

But, it (Silicone) was recommended by a highly regarded RV repair establishment here in Lake Havasu City for use in that re-seal. Not only that but, there is a an RV company about two blocks from the Winnebago factory in Forest City Iowa that, puts out a video once a month on various RV repairs and maintenance.

Guess what, THEY recommend the use of Silicone in that roof-to-gutter seal, based on what THEY were instructed by the factory. But, they also say that the use of Silicone in that application is for a FULL BODY PAINTED coach. For any other coaches, they recommend a Sikaflex compound.

So, whether or not a Silicone joint should or should not be tooled, may or may not be necessary. Many, like myself, will tool it because we (I) feel it's a better look and, it may actually form a better bind to the two mating surfaces.
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Old 10-19-2016, 06:53 AM   #7
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The 'Good, Bad, and Ugly'

FIRE UP,

Great story, and description of how you use silicone. You seem
to be VERY knowledgeable on this subject, which sometimes most do not
even pay ANY attention to the difference in expertise on the application job. Some are good at the job, some better, some, ummmm not so good.......


Thanks !!
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Old 10-19-2016, 07:25 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jactravlusa View Post
FIRE UP,

Great story, and description of how you use silicone. You seem
to be VERY knowledgeable on this subject, which sometimes most do not
even pay ANY attention to the difference in expertise on the application job. Some are good at the job, some better, some, ummmm not so good.......


Thanks !!
You're certainly welcome Sir. I'm certainly no expert on this stuff, just been around for a few zillion years and been learning to do things for myself for ever. And that means watching folks like those techs at the glass shops and RV shops. The work I did on my roof-to-gutter seam was done, as stated, right at a year ago and, it was "suggested" that it would not last very long at all.
Well, it's still there, still sealing as good as the day I did it, is not peeling or separating, is not failing in any way, shape or form. I don't fault anyone for using other compounds in this application, there's lots to choose from. It's just one of those things that, I've got experience using Silicone and have used it in outside applications, waaaaaaaaaaay before I used it on this motorhome and, it's never failed me yet.

Here's a couple of pics of the motorhome seam before, during and after the work.
Scott





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Old 10-20-2016, 06:09 AM   #9
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Superior Job !!
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Old 10-27-2016, 04:49 PM   #10
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FWIW, the silicone that Entegra uses isn't silicone. It's Geocell Proflex RV Sealant. It looks like silicone but is designed for RV use. Unlike silicone, it can be exposed to adverse weather conditions right after application and has excellent expansion and contraction properties to withstand the joint movement and temperature changes common to RVs. It bonds to many materials, even damp or oily surfaces that would allow silicone to peal off later. It stays flexible and is mildew resistant and doesn't need feathering.

Can't speak for the other manufacturers but I would assume that many of them use this as well due to the benefits available for speed in production. It most likely gets mistaken for silicone by many owners because it looks similar.
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Old 10-28-2016, 12:56 PM   #11
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Watching a pro applying silicone, or any other sealant you'd care to discuss, would make you swear it's an art form! Properly done with a correctly sized tip, it should need no "tooling", and should not be spread much more than the width of the seam you're caulking. For instance, an 1/8" gap in a seam should be filled with about 1/8" spread to either side of the seam. Gobbing it on, or spreading it out really isn't necessary, and can look pretty bad. Same could be said with any attempts to "tool" the material after it's been applied.

The trick is to use the pressure of the sealant coming out of the nozzle to fill the seam ahead of the tip (NEVER behind it!), and work at just the right speed, using just the right pressure on the caulk gun to prevent excess that will need to be spread out or dealt with. Done correctly (by varying the size of the tip and the angle the applicator is held at), the seam is filled, and the tip itself leaves the seam in back of it perfectly formed.

Beginners would do well to apply tape to areas on either side of a seam to prevent a terrible looking mess! Done right, even an amateur job can look pretty nice! Just get that tape off there ASAP.
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Old 10-28-2016, 01:05 PM   #12
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that is a big gap you are filling with sealant..i also have been builder from '80-'03 and i always put appropriate round foam in all areas that gap..and i use the tip to tool my bead and hold tube or gun about 45% and the amount i put in is good when it is feeding thru the back of the tip.. i only hand tool when i cannot get tube or gun in proper and then i really try to not have that that tall thin film up or on the sides..it gets dirty so fast and cant tape around it as paint wont stick to it. lm not knocking you job as we all do things different/// my first thought on caulking is trying not to use silicone or butyl as there are so many choices that make nicer beads out of the tube and last as long or more if not properly applied.. and even silicone has many formulas for kitchen or bath or door trim ect.
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Old 10-28-2016, 01:45 PM   #13
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Look up the specs on Titebond Weather Master metal roof sealant.
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Old 10-28-2016, 02:14 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jactravlusa View Post
Just a question on how a 'properly applied' silicone bead should look or be applied to a factory new MH. I have noticed on a unit, a higher end unit, that the silicone bead was just applied and not sealed by feathering into position. It is my understanding, a 'true' silicone bead is NOT applied properly if not sealed by feathering to secure to the surface of applied area.
I will try to explain this by saying that this units silicone bead was just applied as a 'round looking' bead and not feathered in after the application.
This to me would not be a good thing because the bead could break loose sooner or later by doing it this way.
Seems a strange question, but I think some on here are familiar with what I am talking about, could you please chime in and let me know your thoughts on this subject and whether or not I am just overthinking this.
Thanks!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jactravlusa View Post
Thanks for reply, but I think most MH mfgs use the stuff to seal around trim areas. Haven't inspected all brands, but probably most do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jactravlusa View Post
Zeb,
Thanks, I think you are totally correct on this question of mine. The silicone should be, as you said, tooled in, meaning making good bonding and for actually a 'better' look. The better look is not the big deal here, mostly it is whether or not the bead could break loose or not.
Thanks for your input !!
Jactravlusa
I am of the opinion that no MH manufacturer uses "silicone caulk" or "silicone sealant" on the exterior of the MHs they build.

However... regardless of what you, I or anyone else "thinks"... the only way to "know" what caulk/sealant was used by the manufacturer of any MH isby asking the manufacturer of that MH what caulk/sealant they use, (or used).
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