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Old 11-03-2007, 06:09 PM   #15
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Jerry...you didn't get on my wrong side...I guess we don't have the water issues here in the Northeast that you may have where you're from...just never had mineral issues in my whole RV life...same with all the problems some people have with black/gray water tanks...just do the right thing and no problems...

I've been around the RV block a few times, and I do have issues with people posting blanket statements about things that don't apply to everyone.
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Old 11-04-2007, 07:23 AM   #16
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"I do have issues with people posting blanket statements about things that don't apply to everyone."

Right back at you!
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Old 11-04-2007, 07:55 AM   #17
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Try a full coach RO system. I am using a portable system that fills my main tank. I then run the water through the coach. Solves the hard water problems. My home water records a 38 on the hardness scale. The RO system also helps to "purify" the water in different campgrounds.
Your GI track will appreciate the constant source of water instead of changing frequently.
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Old 11-04-2007, 01:15 PM   #18
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Hi Ho: I like the RO approach. What equipment did you use and what is the approximate cost. The problem with an ion exchange softener is that you shouldn't drink the water because of extra sodium, expecially if you are at all prone to high blood pressure/heart disease. Sodium ions exacerbate this problem.

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Old 11-04-2007, 02:56 PM   #19
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Dirk, The RV Filter Store has a lot of information on the RO system, not sure if JCM has another source. Links to purchase RO systems are at the bottom of the page. I've bought a Watts adjustable pressure regulator w/gauge from them, as well as a repair parts kit for the regulator, good people.
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Old 11-04-2007, 05:48 PM   #20
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by GerryB54:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by JerryForwood:
Sorry but that won't get the heavy mineral deposits that accumulate at the bottom of the tank below the drain plug. They don't float. The only way to get them loose is to open the hole at the tank and push in the tool that is made for that purpose. It has a bent end so that it can be directed at the debris. Try it once and see what comes out. especially if you have only drained and "Back flushed" for a few seasons.
OBTW, CW has the tools in stock. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I don't know about your rig, but my whole house filter will remove all the stuff you are talking about before it gets to the water heater...but I've only been doing this (RVing) for almost 30 years...I probably don't know much... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

FWIW, your filter will NOT remove desolved mineral deposits. Mineral deposits will precipitate out in your water heater and collect at the bottom of the tank. You'll have to follow Atwoods recommendations to remove the drain plug and insert a flushing wand to flush the deposits that settle to the bottom of the tank.

-Tom
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Old 11-05-2007, 07:09 AM   #21
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Thanks TOM.
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Old 11-05-2007, 07:38 AM   #22
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Just to have a little understanding here not a misunderstanding. When people start a thread your information is received with gratitude but you have to understand there maybe others that will contribute something to the thread to cover other MFG appliances that require the added operation to fully comply with that appliance. Its not to say someone is wrong but everyone is made aware of.
I post items that I hope will help everyone but I'm well aware that others will have something to correct me if I'm off base. I do not take that as criticism of my post but some added construction to my post.
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Old 11-10-2007, 04:04 PM   #23
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GerryB54

I finally found all of the parts to add the drain. My question is, did you use any sealant on the threads? Teflon tape: pipe dope????
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Old 11-11-2007, 05:23 AM   #24
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When using plastic I was told CPVC is approved for hot and cold.PVC is not recommended for hot.
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Old 11-11-2007, 06:38 AM   #25
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by wthomas1:
GerryB54

I finally found all of the parts to add the drain. My question is, did you use any sealant on the threads? Teflon tape: pipe dope???? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I didn't use any sealants, fittings tightened leak free as is for me.
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Old 11-15-2007, 05:59 AM   #26
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Here's a trick I've been using for years to keep the bottom of my wh tank gunk free--and it works.

I took a foot and a half length of 1/4" i.d. tubing and made a 45 degree slash cut in one end. When I drain the tank I insert the tube in the drain hole slash side down so the flat part rides on the bottom of the tank. Siphon action will take place where the tube will fill and drain allowing me to "vacuum" the bottom while moving the hose around as the tank drains. If you're wondering how much crud comes out put a screen under the tube. Yukkkk.

Another added feature: The siphon hose flows long after the tank drain stops flowing since there is always a few quarts (of old water to stink) left in it.

To store the hose I curl it up on the bottom inside of the cover away from the burner vent.

If I haven't been clear on the description or function let me know and I'll try to explain better.
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