Sorry for the length but I need experienced guidance

[Jimco]

I did some searching but didn't quite find what I was looking for. If you have the patience to read my issues, I would appreciate your experienced feedback to keep my run-of-the-mill 2002 Southwind 32V happy:

20’ A&E 9000 awning: Doesn’t roll up tight any more and the fabric anchor has slipped about 3” to one side, letting the fabric pull away from the roller when out. Question: (1) Is the roller spring mechanism difficult to replace (assuming the parts are available) and adjust properly? (2) How do I get the fabric anchor slid back to where it belongs and shouldn’t it be anchored somehow?

Power Gear hydraulic jacks: The dash controller only allows left to right leveling via the rear jacks (by design) and the rear jacks are sometimes 1” to 2” short of full retraction when lifted. Question: (1) I get the design of the system that I assume opens a valve on the front jacks to let them float side to side as the rear moves, but leveling is difficult because the rear lifts before the front moves. This puts the coach way higher than it needs to be after I have to lift the front more to compensate for the rear. Is this a design flaw or is there something that needs repair? I would rather have four individual controls since I don’t have a fully automatic system. (2) I have seen somewhere that some have put return springs on some jacks not originally equipped as such (like my front). Is this the case here or is something wrong?

245/70R19.5 Michelin XRV: OE on my Workhorse. I have read too many posts on tire pro and con and am content with more of the same. Since my originals are date code 5-00 and have 16K on them, I am in no position to complain about the minor sidewall cracking I have. I am having a hard time finding these tires and called Michelin twice to get the straight story. A “shipment” is due to arrive any day now (I am 30 miles north of Los Angeles and do not know where this “shipment” lands). I have heard that there are a small number of these tires on the “shipment” and thus they are all spoken for by previous backorders. I had a distributor find 6 in Sacramento with miscellaneous date codes +/- 18 months old and Michelin said they had 6 in Houston they would ship to L.A. with unconfirmed date codes. Question: Since I am the epitome of time wearing out my RV tires before mileage, I would like to begin with the newest tires possible. What would any of you with this experience consider “normal” and the maximum date code permissible for tires on the shelf?

Thank you in advance for your assistance.

[RV Wizard]

The fabric on the awning can be slid in the tube and on the wall of the coach to where it need to be for proper operation. Once in the right position use some screws to hold it there in the awning rail on the wall o the coach and in the tube of the awning. The springs probably just need a couple turns to tighten up the tension to original. They can also be replaced if one breaks. Make sure you have some help from someone that has experience with these springs to avoid injury.
I would have to look at the jack system and on what grade you are trying to level the coach to determine if something is wrong or not.
If you are going to keep the coach through another lifespan of tires, then you will want the freshest tires available or a reduced price for the tires.

[Gary RVRoamer]

RV Wizard gave good advice.

I had two previous coaches with the Power Gear jacks like you have and do not quite comprehend your problem. If you end up too high, you can raise the jacks a little to drop the coach down a few inches and re-adjust. Do this by hitting "Retract All" and then quickly hitting the On/Off button to stop the retraction (this procedure is described in your Power Gear manual). Then turn it back on and use the jack down buttons to adjust the level some more.

The system is designed to "float" on the front jacks to prevent twisting the chassis and damaging it or breaking the windshield.

My recollection is that both front and rear jacks have springs to retract them. The Power Gear system uses hydraulic pressure to move the jacks down and spring pressure to return them to the store position.

[J Walker]

On my HWH levelers it is normal for one jack to extend faster than the others. If it becomes a problem I retract them partially to allow the one extended the furthers to equalize with the other jack in the pair. I would insist on tires dated not more than 6 months from the purchase date.

[Bushman512003]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jimco I did some searching but didn't quite find what I was looking for. If you have the patience to read my issues, I would appreciate your experienced feedback to keep my run-of-the-mill 2002 Southwind 32V happy: 20’ A&E 9000 awning: Doesn’t roll up tight any more and the fabric anchor has slipped about 3” to one side, letting the fabric pull away from the roller when out. Question: (1) Is the roller spring mechanism difficult to replace (assuming the parts are available) and adjust properly? (2) How do I get the fabric anchor slid back to where it belongs and shouldn’t it be anchored somehow? Power Gear hydraulic jacks: The dash controller only allows left to right leveling via the rear jacks (by design) and the rear jacks are sometimes 1” to 2” short of full retraction when lifted. Question: (1) I get the design of the system that I assume opens a valve on the front jacks to let them float side to side as the rear moves, but leveling is difficult because the rear lifts before the front moves. This puts the coach way higher than it needs to be after I have to lift the front more to compensate for the rear. Is this a design flaw or is there something that needs repair? I would rather have four individual controls since I don’t have a fully automatic system. (2) I have seen somewhere that some have put return springs on some jacks not originally equipped as such (like my front). Is this the case here or is something wrong? 245/70R19.5 Michelin XRV: OE on my Workhorse. I have read too many posts on tire pro and con and am content with more of the same. Since my originals are date code 5-00 and have 16K on them, I am in no position to complain about the minor sidewall cracking I have. I am having a hard time finding these tires and called Michelin twice to get the straight story. A “shipment” is due to arrive any day now (I am 30 miles north of Los Angeles and do not know where this “shipment” lands). I have heard that there are a small number of these tires on the “shipment” and thus they are all spoken for by previous backorders. I had a distributor find 6 in Sacramento with miscellaneous date codes +/- 18 months old and Michelin said they had 6 in Houston they would ship to L.A. with unconfirmed date codes. Question: Since I am the epitome of time wearing out my RV tires before mileage, I would like to begin with the newest tires possible. What would any of you with this experience consider “normal” and the maximum date code permissible for tires on the shelf? Thank you in advance for your assistance.

Your Tires were made 5th week of 2000 look for 1/2 year old or newer any 2009 would be a good age or work a deal in the price as air in outside of tires age tires.And in storage a long time is ageing a tire in doors or out...I was 33-1/2 years in rubber and know what is what about a tire and time is ageing as You also said...Bushman