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Old 11-18-2013, 07:24 AM   #1
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Stabilizer jacks on type c

I am thinking about adding /using 24" scissor stabilizer jacks to reduce trailer bounce while parked.
what are y'all doing to level and stabilize your trailer if you have no built in bottle jacks? Also do you level and stabilize your RV or just pull in and camp, I know it is site and preference dependent. I would like your thoughts.
thanks
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Old 11-18-2013, 08:11 AM   #2
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Always level the unit. Sink/shower will drain, refrige will work and not be damaged, bed will be level when you lay in it.
Support jacks on the corners will "steady" the trailer, reduce bounce/movement. These stabilizers are not, NOT, meant the level the unit.
Most trailers have stabilizers factory installed, but aftermarkets can also be installed by you, or the dealer.
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Old 11-18-2013, 08:25 AM   #3
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As Tom3205 stated: stabilizer jacks are for stabilizing only. I level my MH as close to the bubble as possible, I don't always get it perfect, but only for comfort. After hooking up I lower my 2 jacks in the rear for comfort, but we still get bounce. Not just very much. Sometimes I don't even mess with them.
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Old 11-18-2013, 11:29 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvtime2 View Post
I am thinking about adding /using 24" scissor stabilizer jacks to reduce trailer bounce while parked.
what are y'all doing to level and stabilize your trailer if you have no built in bottle jacks? Also do you level and stabilize your RV or just pull in and camp, I know it is site and preference dependent. I would like your thoughts.
thanks
rvtime2,
The answers you've received so far are good ones and are helpful. Leveling a coach, any coach, is always subjective on any RV forum. Some work hard at it and some, just don't care. I've seen rigs so far off level that a glass of water most likely wouldn't stay on the kitchen table. But, they've been there for quite a while and, apparently, it doesn't matter to those folks that camp that way.

I've done EXACTLY WHAT YOU'RE THINKING OF, on our older class C. It also came with nothing for leveling and stabilization. But, I do now and, always have carried a selection of lumber for driving up on when in somewhat un level camp spots/RV sites. I've had to dig out certain wheels/tires and, drive up on some at the same time so that the coach is "PRIMARILY" level.

Then, use those scissors jacks to do the "FINE TUNING". And yes, many of them are capable of up to around 5,000 lbs. each so, they can be used as leveling jacks. But, before anyone gets all hot and bothered, you only use them in a "sparingly" manor. You don't lift the wheels off the ground (not that you could with those types), you just use them AFTER you've driven on lumber or what ever as fine tuning and to make sure that there's close to even support (in pressure) on all four corners so the rig is stable. It's pretty simple. I liked them on ours. I added the heaviest duty ones I could find and, used a battery powered impact gun for high speed spinning of the shaft for raising and lowering them. It worked great. Good luck.
Scott
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:24 PM   #5
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rvtime2,
The answers you've received so far are good ones and are helpful. Leveling a coach, any coach, is always subjective on any RV forum. Some work hard at it and some, just don't care. I've seen rigs so far off level that a glass of water most likely wouldn't stay on the kitchen table. But, they've been there for quite a while and, apparently, it doesn't matter to those folks that camp that way.

I've done EXACTLY WHAT YOU'RE THINKING OF, on our older class C. It also came with nothing for leveling and stabilization. But, I do now and, always have carried a selection of lumber for driving up on when in somewhat un level camp spots/RV sites. I've had to dig out certain wheels/tires and, drive up on some at the same time so that the coach is "PRIMARILY" level.

Then, use those scissors jacks to do the "FINE TUNING". And yes, many of them are capable of up to around 5,000 lbs. each so, they can be used as leveling jacks. But, before anyone gets all hot and bothered, you only use them in a "sparingly" manor. You don't lift the wheels off the ground (not that you could with those types), you just use them AFTER you've driven on lumber or what ever as fine tuning and to make sure that there's close to even support (in pressure) on all four corners so the rig is stable. It's pretty simple. I liked them on ours. I added the heaviest duty ones I could find and, used a battery powered impact gun for high speed spinning of the shaft for raising and lowering them. It worked great. Good luck.
Scott
thanks. I level with blocks under tires. I was planning to maybe use the HD scissor under frame. Did you bolt or weld on? Did you use two front and two rear? our camper is 31' long. We just added HD Bilstein that really really reduced bounce while driving, maybe they will help some while stationary also? I will nee to look at some accessible attachment points. I had six on my last TT and they helped bounce,especially on longer trailers. Indian want them to get pulled out catching on ground due to clearance issues when parking
i am just thinking about it. May be a winter project. Thanks for input everyone. I always appreciate your feedback.
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:33 PM   #6
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thanks. I level with blocks under tires. I was planning to maybe use the HD scissor under frame. Did you bolt or weld on? Did you use two front and two rear? our camper is 31' long. We just added HD Bilstein that really really reduced bounce while driving, maybe they will help some while stationary also? I will nee to look at some accessible attachment points. I had six on my last TT and they helped bounce,especially on longer trailers. Indian want them to get pulled out catching on ground due to clearance issues when parking
i am just thinking about it. May be a winter project. Thanks for input everyone. I always appreciate your feedback.
rvtime2,
Question #1, "Did you bolt or weld on?
If I recall, what I did back then was welded on a bracket that I used to "Bolt" each jack onto. That way if one of the jacks was ever damaged for any reason, I could just un bolt it and replace it. There was probably some reason that I could not just bolt on the jacks without an adapter bracket that was welded on but, it was a long time ago and I can barely remember what happened an hour ago, much less that long ago.

Question #2, "Did you use two or four"
Well, to me, four was the only answer. If I recall, and it was long ago, utilizing those to stabilize was a serious improvement. Since I've been fabricating things since I was about 10, I most likely made some adaptive bracketry that allowed me to install those jacks where they normally would not go. And, I would do that so there was an even split on support, for all four corners.

Comment: Will the Bilstiens help on stability when stationary?
Well, in my opinion, VERY LITTLE. If you had no jacks at all, and had no shocks on the rig at all, you might get a bit of rocking around as you stepped on and off the rig and or moved around inside. But, then install some new shocks, and you might, I say "MIGHT" get some added stability. Shock action is primarily based on rapid movement rather than slow. Hope this helps some.
Scott
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Old 11-18-2013, 11:23 PM   #7
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We had a 27' Jamboree Class C for 14 years. I bolted two scissor jacks to the rear frame. They didn't have the lifting power to lift the coach, but did well stabilize the coach. When we stayed at campgrounds for more than a week, I used a bottle jack under the front end near the bumper.

I was pretty good at getting the coach level with wood blocks and then stabilized with the rear jacks. As stated, if we were staying for a while I would set the coach so it was a little high in the rear, lower the rear jacks and then crank the nose up until level with the bottle jack. This made it pretty stable. I could get the rears down and the bottle jack in place pretty quick.
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