Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > MH-General Discussions & Problems
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-05-2013, 05:10 PM   #15
Member
 
daveandviv's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 36
I am still doing some research and will need to get the coach weight. I have a W-24 frame and the tires are 235/80R/ 22.5 (XRV)
__________________

__________________
2007 Fleetwood Chassis
36D Pace Arrow
daveandviv is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 05-05-2013, 05:24 PM   #16
Community Administrator
 
JohnRR's Avatar


 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Marquette, Michigan "Da UP"
Posts: 16,943
Quote:
Originally Posted by daveandviv View Post
The Manual suggested 110 for the front..... 100psi for the rear, so I went under that already, (100psi) but I could lower the psi by another 10psi on the front to see if that does anything.
I have basically the same set up a you except a 38', my body decal suggests 90psi rear and 100 front, no other suspension parts added and it drives straight as an arrow. I would think I am also heavier than you as well.

I tried 105 in the front going to the iRV2 rally last summer and it picked up a very distinctive wander. I just set them back down for tomorrows season shake down trip.
__________________

__________________
John & Cathy R.
06 Pace Arrow 38L W24
08 14 Lincoln MKX AWD
See My RV Upgrades
JohnRR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2013, 01:54 PM   #17
Member
 
daveandviv's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 36
I had the coach weighed and according to the chart for my 235/80/22.5 was 85 for the front and rear. So I was running a little high on the pressure. I will try knocking this down to 85psi and check out the adjustment very soon to see if it helped the sloop in the steering wheel.
__________________
2007 Fleetwood Chassis
36D Pace Arrow
daveandviv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2013, 11:59 PM   #18
Junior Member
 
mrrob1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 19
Tejay gave some very good advice.I had the same problem that you have.I went to a local rv shop and was told that I needed four new shocks {$875} and rear airbags{$1100}.I read this post and did some checking for myself.My rear swaybar bushings were worn out. I replaced them myself and it cost me only $96.00. Got the bushings from the Ford dealer.
__________________
mrrob1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2013, 10:36 AM   #19
Member
 
daveandviv's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 36
Pressure is now at 85 and it still has play in the steering wheel and is wandering side to side making it hard to follow a straight line. I guess I will put a Trac Bar in the rear and after that ????????????????
__________________
2007 Fleetwood Chassis
36D Pace Arrow
daveandviv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2013, 01:10 AM   #20
Senior Member
 
DAN L's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,898
Quote:
Originally Posted by daveandviv View Post
Pressure is now at 85 and it still has play in the steering wheel and is wandering side to side making it hard to follow a straight line. I guess I will put a Trac Bar in the rear and after that ????????????????
a track bar from brazel's made a big improvement in the handling of my rig.
__________________
01 WINNEBAGO 35U W20.8.1L SW Wa, Hi. Good Sam, SKP. AMSOIL fluids. BANKS ecm program. SCAN GAUGE II w/ Ally temp. 2 LIFELINE GPL-6CT AGM Batts on their sides. TST tptts. K&N panel air filter. AERO mufflers. TAYLOR plug wires. ULTRA POWER track bar. KONI fsd shocks, toad '14 smart car
DAN L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2013, 08:34 AM   #21
Senior Member
 
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 4,691
If you have any skills or access to some stuff you can build your own track bar and save a few hundred dollars. Check this sight.

Oemy's Web Site - DIY Trac Bar

TeJay
__________________
TeJay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2013, 08:53 PM   #22
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 120
Tejay is right on where he suggests more +caster. Heres a link to my experience with caster. E350/E450 Handling Problems are caused by too little + CASTER

Buy as much caster as you can afford.
__________________
Harvard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2013, 11:08 AM   #23
Senior Member
 
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 4,691
Harvard,
Thanks. It's always nice when a suggestion helps others with problems. Here's a little more information as to why + caster effects the vehicle the way it does. A Chopper (motorcycle) has excessive + caster. Consider the axis of rotation for the chopper. The top of that point of rotation is tilted way back. If you pushed it forward and made it vertical you would have 0 caster. Push it further forward and you have - caster. If you are old enough you might remember those little red wagons. You never, never wanted to roll down a steep hill because the slightest turn of the handle and you jackknifed and wrecked. Those were set up with zero caster. With positive caster the weight of the vehicle is actually pushing down on the wheels forcing them in a straight ahead direction. When you turn the steering wheel you are actually lifting the weight of the front of the vehicle. After you make a turn and release the steering wheel it is the weight that is forcing the steering wheel to return to the center position. That's why + caster helps with tracking and it also resists wind forces trying to push the front around. A food cart caster is way negative. When you push the cart the weight turns the wheel around and trails the cart. You can turn the cart and that's why it's negative caster. More positive caster is acceptable today because the amount of effort to turn and lift all that weight is negated by the power steering system.
I hope this makes more sense. I've got an old pick-up that won't track correctly. The alignment guy said that the caster is within specs. He replaced the pitman arm because it was worn. This helped but it still will not track well. I'm going to ask him to increase the caster by 2 more degrees.

TeJay
__________________
TeJay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2013, 09:53 AM   #24
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 120
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeJay View Post
....
I've got an old pick-up that won't track correctly. The alignment guy said that the caster is within specs. He replaced the pitman arm because it was worn. This helped but it still will not track well. I'm going to ask him to increase the caster by 2 more degrees.

TeJay
This is crux of the matter, setting Toe and Camber to MID spec is a given. But, when it comes to caster more +caster is better WITHIN spec. My vehicle has a Caster Spec from about +1.5 to +7.0 and I went from +3.5 to +5.5.

IMO the lower +caster range is good for a city deliver van but for a highway driven vehicle you want to be on the high range of +caster.
__________________
Harvard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2013, 07:54 PM   #25
Member
 
daveandviv's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 36
Would the +Castor adjustment ware the tires differently
__________________
2007 Fleetwood Chassis
36D Pace Arrow
daveandviv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2013, 10:34 PM   #26
Senior Member
 
terry735001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,158
Blog Entries: 11
there is a adjustment on the steering box i am sure you can find the right info
just pull that adjustment in slowly if you do think that is it
__________________
terry735001 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 02:16 AM   #27
Senior Member
 
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 4,691
The steering gear adjustment that you are referring to is the worm gear adjustment. I have adjusted that and it still wants to wander.

Since caster is tilting the axis of wheel rotation either away from you or towards you it will not effect tire wear. Camber and toe are angles that cause tire ware.

TeJay
__________________
TeJay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 10:04 AM   #28
Member
 
daveandviv's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 36
Terry......The shop told me it did not have an adjustment
__________________

__________________
2007 Fleetwood Chassis
36D Pace Arrow
daveandviv is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
steering



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:08 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.