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Old 05-27-2013, 09:48 AM   #29
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There are still many things that I have not learned but I have never seen a steering gear box that did not have a worm gear adjustment screw. Google "Steering gear box worm gear adjustment" and I'll bet there will be a picture of the gear and the adjustment.

If you are referring to Caster adjustment that statement still holds true. There has to be a way to adjust the caster.

If a shop tells you something can't be adjusted they may not want to do it or they just don't know how to do it. I'd find me a new shop.

I have a disc from Ford for the 2009 F-53 MH chassis. I'm going to look up the caster settings and post them. They will be in my next posting.

TeJay
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:17 AM   #30
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My steering control box does not have an adjustment.
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File Type: pdf Sheppard.pdf (65.8 KB, 24 views)
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:21 AM   #31
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Here's the specs for 2009. They are probably not much different with the newer models. I will check and post.

16,000-22,000 chassis 4.63* +/- .75* Left side and right are the same

24,000-26,000 4.0* +/- 1.0* This setting is with added weight meaning fuel,
water, and gear.

SYMPTOMS IF SETTINGS ARE OFF.
Caster to high - Hard steering , tire shimmy.
Caster set to low - Road wander and lack of returnability of the
steering wheel.

According to the factory tour we took a few weeks ago all coaches are aligned after the coach is completely built. When we got our DS back in 1999 I believe it came with a printout of the final alignment readings. I kept all paper work but gave it to the new owner when we sold it. Guys check your paperwork and see if you have those settings. It would be interesting to compare specs.

One more piece of information. The caster is adjusted by loosing the U-bolts that hold the I-beam axles to the suspension or leaf springs, then they insert shims under the axle which will tilt the steering axis fore and aft as needed. The shims are available in 1/2 a degree increments.

Did you notice the spec for the 16K-22-K axles. It's 4.63 degrees. That's pretty specific if you ask me. Why not round it at 4.50* or 4.60* or even 4.65" ??

JM2CW TeJay
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:34 AM   #32
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YC1,
Like I said I'm always open to learning new things. I was also not sure if daveandviv was referring to the gear box or the caster.

I also looked a little on the Ford disc and did not see any adjustment on that gear box as well. My 1997 Ford F-150 has one but that's ancient and I don't know if it is a Hyrdoboost assist system either. That may be some of the difference.

TeJay
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Old 05-27-2013, 01:52 PM   #33
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Yes TeJay, I was referring to the steering box adjustment.

My caster specs are:
Left 2.75 to 4.75 > adjusted to 4.15 from 3.95
Right 3.25 to 5.25 > adjusted to 4.80 from 4.25
Cross -1.50 to .50 set at -.65

After this adjustment at the alignment shop, it still wandered .... Didn't notice any improvement. Hopefully those were the right specs for the Workhorse W24 chassis.
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Old 06-13-2013, 12:29 AM   #34
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I have a 93 Southwind on a P30 chassis. The steering was all over the road and cause alot of driver fatigue every time I drove it. Finally crawled under the front end and looked for problems and found a few. I changed the driver side steering bell crank made by supersteer, installed a new bell crank arm and a new drag link, installed new Roadmaster sway bar bushings,tightened up the steering box, installed four new Bilstein HD shocks and then had the front end aligned for this particular chassis (Supersteer provided me with the correct alignment specs with the new bell crank purchase). I normally put 75-85 psi in all the tires depending on the load. After all of this work was done my coach drives and handles like a dream. I never thought it would be possible considering how bad it handled before this work was done to it. No more white knuckles. Now a happy face! Dont know if the 2007 Workhorse chassis has similar parts in the front end as mine but if it does maybe you have the same problems. Seeing that your coach is only 6 years old I cannot imagine the front end being very worn out.
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Old 06-13-2013, 12:58 AM   #35
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TeJay,before I added any new parts to my P-30 front end, I tried adjusting the steering box and it did not help. Found out that I adjusted it wrong. I screwed the adjustment "bolt" IN, which was the wrong direction. The bolt is supposed to be adjusted OUT, then tighten the jambnut after adjustment. Found the by running the adjustment bolt out then turning the steering wheel back and forth and screwing the bolt out a little more until I felt resistance did the trick.My adjustment "bolt" and jambnut is on the outboard side of the steering box located around the mid section of the steering box. Dont know if your coach has a "ragjoint" of a universal joint located on the steering shaft between the steering wheel and the steering box. This joint allows for the steering shaft to change angles between the steering wheel and steering box. Most vehicles have one of these couplers in the steering mechanism. I took my coach to an alignment shop that specializes in big trucks and RVs. The alignment did cost me $123.00 and was worth ever penny.
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Old 11-20-2013, 03:31 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer View Post
If you will look in the site FILES section, you will find an article I wrote a few years ago on Motorhome Handling Problems and Solutions. It will explain what causes various problems and the actions used to resolve them. By the way, one of the common problems is the driver over-correcting on the steering and that, a well as mechanical fixes, are discussed. However, a steering stabilizer is not one of the recommended fixes for the problem you described.

100 psi sounds a little high for the size tire used on most Workhorse chassis, but we need the specifics for yours - tire size, chassis model (e.g. W22) and weight (if available) or GVWR. Excess tire pressure will result in what seems like loose steering.
I couldn't download article for viewing. Thanks for writing it,I will try later. Thanks
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Old 12-03-2013, 06:44 PM   #37
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I have a '96 Damon with a Chevy/Workhorse chassis. It only has 12,000 mi on it. first time I took it down I5 in CA it scared me to death, can you say white knuckle, there was a lot of play in the steering. I checked around and found that the bell cranks that are used have bushings in them not bearings and because of the weight of the vehicle the bushings don't last long. So I found these SuperSteer P3032 Bell Crank for Workhorse and Chevy P30/P32/P37 Motorhome Chassis...what an improvement.

Bell Crank for Workhorse and Chevy P30, P32 and P37 Chassis
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:04 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Don and Barb View Post
I have a '96 Damon with a Chevy/Workhorse chassis. It only has 12,000 mi on it. first time I took it down I5 in CA it scared me to death, can you say white knuckle, there was a lot of play in the steering. I checked around and found that the bell cranks that are used have bushings in them not bearings and because of the weight of the vehicle the bushings don't last long. So I found these SuperSteer P3032 Bell Crank for Workhorse and Chevy P30/P32/P37 Motorhome Chassis...what an improvement.

Bell Crank for Workhorse and Chevy P30, P32 and P37 Chassis
I have a W24 chassis. I have been told that I can not do this ..Wish I could
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