Community Forums

JamesnJulie · 11-13-2016, 12:07 AM

Just purchased a 2005 Winnebago Voyage class A, on the Workhorse chassis. It has 36,000 mikes and 2 year old tires on it.

Took it out, seems to have a lot of swaying back and forth in the lane and have to pay a lot of attention keeping it in the lane with constant corrections.

My Georgie Boy Maverick Class C didn't have anything like this as it seemed to drive straight as an arrow.

Any ideas what is going on, how to correct or where to read about solutions on the forum?

Thank you.

450Donn · 11-13-2016, 12:40 AM

How much rear overhang? I have noticed a lot of class As with lots of rear overhang and that has to be one of the worst things possible for handling. Also you might get it weighed. Light front end can also cause handling problems.

olustee bus · 11-13-2016, 01:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 450Donn

How much rear overhang? I have noticed a lot of class As with lots of rear overhang and that has to be one of the worst things possible for handling. Also you might get it weighed. Light front end can also cause handling problems.

Yeah, that could be a real problem.

Have you considered a heavier duty sway bar and a Safe T Plus. Two good remedies.

Cousin Ed · 11-13-2016, 06:14 AM

First I would make sure the tire pressure was proper and if that didn't cure the problem have the alignment checked. I have had three MHs an F-53 a W-22 and now a Frieghtliner Maxxum. I haven't seen the need for any suspension modification. I know I am not driving a MIATA!!!

burfurd · 11-13-2016, 06:21 AM

Driving a class A vs a class C can make quite a bit of difference in where the driver looks at the road. The class A tends to make the driver look immediately in front of the coach and makes you tend to overcorrect the position you are on the highway.

Try looking further down the highway and your steering probably will drastically improve.

burfurd

Lifemember · 11-13-2016, 06:42 AM

Could be a number of issues on worn out parts, Ball joints, stabilizer bushings, bell crank, and so on. or could be something as simple as mentioned above.

On my 95 I had two lower ball joints that were bad, replaced the stabilizer bushings that alone made a big difference in handling (at 36 K miles). Then all shocks replaced, steering stabilizer, front air bags. (blow one of the air bags ).

partskenn · 11-13-2016, 07:22 AM

How many miles have you put on it? We bought our new 35 footer and took off for 5000 miles. The first few days I had a two handed death grip on the steering wheel, wouldn't turn on the radio so that I could concentrate on the road, and every time that I would glance over at my wife it looked like she was going to snap her armrests off the seat because she was gripping them so hard. After a couple thousand miles, I will now listen to the radio, occasionally drive one handed (although I still put the second hand on when getting passed by a truck).My copilot will even nap now. It drives different than anything I've ever driven before including large trucks. But I did adapt.

wilanddij · 11-13-2016, 08:45 AM

Tire inflation OK for weight distribution? Alignment OK? If so, the best thing you can do to calm down the leaf spring sideways wobble on a Workhorse W series chassis is to install front and rear panhard (Trac) bars. They tie the axles solidly to the frame and stop that wandering feeling.

MoCoTom · 11-13-2016, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wilanddij

Tire inflation OK for weight distribution? Alignment OK? If so, the best thing you can do to calm down the leaf spring sideways wobble on a Workhorse W series chassis is to install front and rear panhard (Trac) bars. They tie the axles solidly to the frame and stop that wandering feeling.

This is what I did to my workhorse chassis and it made a very noticeable difference.

Gordon Dewald · 11-13-2016, 08:59 AM

The first thing I would check is the axle weights and the tire pressures. IMO overinflated tires can be twitchy.

4x4van · 11-13-2016, 09:19 AM

I just recently bought a 2004 Itasca on the Workhorse chassis. Brand new tires, inflated to the numbers on the driver door tag. It was squirrelly just as you describe. I went down and weighed the coach, all 4 corners, and adjusted the tire pressure according to the tire manufacturers chart and the actual weights. Dropped front pressure by 10 lbs and it made a significant improvement.

JamesnJulie · 11-13-2016, 09:55 AM

Tried to post the reply but it went to MH heaven I guess.

Thank you so much for the replies so fast. I thought I might have one this fast.

13' overhand and 18' wheelbase.
About 350 miles Friday to yesterday with 100 miles on the freeway to the mountains, about 150 in the mountains, and another 100 home.

It was better on the way home but the death grip on Julie was about like mine as was mentioned.

It wasn't as crazy at 60 but kicked in as an E ticket at 65. I know it will get better the more we drive.

The dealer took care of making sure all the coach items worked, now it's going to the mechanic to check the engine and chassis parts, we just had to get out and try it out as soon as we could.

I have a bumper to bumper warranty for anything that might be broken so I will follow everyone's comments with my guy, he works on MH quite a bit.

Thank you again so much for the comments.

JamesnJulie

wa8yxm · 11-13-2016, 10:31 AM

Add a Trac Bar or two.. I'm not kidding.

Class A Motor homes use LEAF springs for the most part, Now as you know the springs are for bouncing up and down but did you know they allow the body to move right or left, or right and left at the same time (right in front, left in rear, then they swap and go left in front, right in rear)

That's you 'Sway' (I call it wiggle)

The Trac-Bar.. Mine is a front mounted Davis Tru-Track,, And I'll eventually put an Ultra Power on the rear.. Stop this DEAD and I mean One bar is like 75% effective and two of them 100%...

Strut suspension on cars has a Radius arm (Does same job)

Independent front suspension on pickups also does this for the front.

But man is it effective.

4x4van · 11-13-2016, 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesnJulie

It wasn't as crazy at 60 but kicked in as an E ticket at 65. I know it will get better the more we drive.
JamesnJulie

It's not going to "get better" the more you drive.

I had a Class C Jamboree that was a white knuckle E ticket ride, exactly the same as you are describing. I drove it that way for 15 years, knowing that my DW would never get behind the wheel, nor would I want her to. Then, finally, I weighed it, front & rear. My front tires were over-inflated for the weight I was actually carrying. Adjusted the tire pressure and it was a day & night difference. Suddenly, I could relax and drive with one hand. I could actually eat a burger while going down the road. I kicked myself for actually driving it for 15 years before easily "fixing" what was wrong for only $10 (the cost of the weigh station).

I just recently bought a 2004 Class A; dealer installed brand new tires. First trip, while not as bad as my previous class C, it WAS similar, swaying back & forth and difficult to keep going straight down the road, particularly over 60mph. Immediately went down and weighed it, all 4 corners. Front tire pressure was at least 10psi higher than it needed to be based on actual weight and the tire manufacturer's chart. Dropped that front tire pressure, and solved the issue.

I pooh-poohed the idea that tire pressure could make that big of a difference for 15 years. Now I know better. An RV is nothing like a car or truck; tire pressure can and will make a huge difference in handling. Before you do anything like trac-bars, shocks, sway bars, etc...IGNORE THE TIRE PRESSURES LISTED ON THE DRIVER DOOR TAG; WEIGH YOUR COACH AND ADJUST YOUR TIRE PRESSURE ACCORDINGLY. Then and only then start making mechanical upgrades/changes if still necessary.