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Old 08-12-2010, 07:07 AM   #1
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Sticky Black Water Valve

Sticky black water valve. Any solutions?
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Old 08-12-2010, 07:13 AM   #2
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WD40
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Old 08-12-2010, 07:57 AM   #3
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The petroleum distillates in WD-40 may damage the seals. I suggest vegetable oil spray.

Probably a more effective, but more unpleasant alternative to apply, is silicone plumber's grease. While wearing rubber gloves, put a little grease on your fingertip and smear it around the groove up inside the valve. However, some valves have too much plumbing downstream to be able to reach the groove.

It you can't resolve the problem, removing the valve to clean it or replace it is an unpleasant, but simple task. New valves usually cost around $20. Dump your tank and flush the tank with plenty of clean water. Tilt your RV slightly to the side away from the drain valve if possible. Remove the 4 bolts holding the valve in place. Separate the piping enough to slide the valve out. When putting the valve back, make sure the seals are properly in place.
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Old 08-12-2010, 09:17 AM   #4
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Considering the consequences of having a valve fail, I try to replace mine about every two years. It's not that tough a job and give me some peace of mind.
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Old 08-12-2010, 10:28 AM   #5
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Use Non-Petrolium Silicone spray? Thetford makes a lubricant that dumps into the tank. I tried it, but didn't notice a lot of difference. Maybe I didn't use enough $$$
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Old 08-12-2010, 11:14 AM   #6
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Spray 303 on the shaft.
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Old 08-13-2010, 05:34 AM   #7
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Sticky Black Water Valve

Thank you to all who posted a reply. May the Lord Jesus Christ bless you all.
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Old 08-20-2010, 06:08 PM   #8
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I installed a zerk fitting on the side of the unit (narrow edge) near the bottom of the valve travel. Just a couple of shots from the grease gun each time I lube the chassis has kept them operating smoothly for 6 years. Keeps the rod and everything else inside lubed. First pull after each lube can be stiff as the grease is forced up and into the seals.
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Old 08-20-2010, 07:26 PM   #9
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I also added a zerk fitting to each valve and it works great. First, I dripped the right size hole for the zerk, then threaded it with a tap, and finally screwed in the zerk (available from hardware stores). Then, add some grease and experienced a very smooth valve movement.
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Old 08-21-2010, 06:17 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky Larson View Post
I installed a zerk fitting on the side of the unit (narrow edge) near the bottom of the valve travel. Just a couple of shots from the grease gun each time I lube the chassis has kept them operating smoothly for 6 years. Keeps the rod and everything else inside lubed. First pull after each lube can be stiff as the grease is forced up and into the seals.
any chance of getting a pic of where you put the zerk, bill
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Old 08-21-2010, 07:41 AM   #11
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http://www.macandchris.com/images/11...alve_small.jpg

Sorry, too far away from MH right now. My valves are vertical while this picture of his solution is horizontal. I think the screw could be replaced with a zerk and work as well.
If you trace up along the valve housing from his screw, about an inch, then over the edge to the right and then along the top about 3 to 4 inches, just below the wide part that stores the valve gate when is it closed, is where I placed mine. This is a better description than my original post.
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Old 08-21-2010, 08:57 AM   #12
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ok thanks for your quick response. i did look at macs web site and i decided to drill a hole in the end above the pull handle and spray silicane in there, and i'll see how that works. i had 2 s.s. screws that worked great to plug the holes.
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Old 08-21-2010, 09:23 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghorton5 View Post
Sticky black water valve. Any solutions?
Annual summertime maintenance by dis-assembly, cleaning of seals, valve surfaces and stems provides trouble free use of the valves. I only lube the stems with a small amount of anti-seize lubricant. Watch that the seals stay in place when putting the valves back together to avoid leaks. Avoid the use of WD-40, but the 303 protectant is OK
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Old 08-21-2010, 10:07 AM   #14
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From past experience with severals problems I had with my black water valve on my fiver. I had to get under the 5 W, and remove most of the underbelly protective material to get to the valve. I removed the valve approx twice a year to clean and grease. The valve was connected to a long wire approx 6 ft, to open or close the valve.
After a few years I installed a grease zirk, that worked well, but still had to remove the underbelly to get to it.

So after a few years, after replacing the valve with a new one, I stopped using the various products to add to the black tank, instead I installed on the roof vent a 360 something that did a great job. Well believe it or not it worked, I never had to replace or clean that valve again. I added product to the black tank 1 or 2 times a year to clean it.

On my motorhome, I did the same thing, had it for 4 years now without any problems.
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