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Old 08-14-2006, 04:51 PM   #1
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I posted a couple of weeks ago, but still have problems. I think my caliper is exerting too much force after release of the brake pedal, but I am not sure. Right now I have the RV jacked up and the left front tire removed. I removed the caliper and lubed the slides then replaced the caliper. After applying the brakes and releasing, it takes some amount of force to get the hub to turn. No matter how much I turn the hub, the force does not decrease. It definately is not freewheeling, but it is not totally seized either. I opened up the bleeder to make sure no built up pressure was inside the caliper. This had no affect on the force required to turn the hub. The caliper was new two years ago and has about 12K miles on it. If it is a bad caliper, what would have made it go bad so quickly? Any other way to check if a caliper is bad or not?
1993 FOrd F53 chassis.

Thanks,
Rob
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Old 08-14-2006, 04:51 PM   #2
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I posted a couple of weeks ago, but still have problems. I think my caliper is exerting too much force after release of the brake pedal, but I am not sure. Right now I have the RV jacked up and the left front tire removed. I removed the caliper and lubed the slides then replaced the caliper. After applying the brakes and releasing, it takes some amount of force to get the hub to turn. No matter how much I turn the hub, the force does not decrease. It definately is not freewheeling, but it is not totally seized either. I opened up the bleeder to make sure no built up pressure was inside the caliper. This had no affect on the force required to turn the hub. The caliper was new two years ago and has about 12K miles on it. If it is a bad caliper, what would have made it go bad so quickly? Any other way to check if a caliper is bad or not?
1993 FOrd F53 chassis.

Thanks,
Rob
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Old 08-20-2006, 06:10 AM   #3
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Bob
why not replace the flex hose from the frame to the caliper and all new fluid---ford says change the fluid every 2 years any way.
"on GM motorhomes they are prone to failure"
rich from va
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Old 08-20-2006, 06:27 AM   #4
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I did replace the flex hoses and cycled new fluid through two years ago. Since I am still not sure if I have a caliper issue I am going to try the following experiment today:
I am going to jack up each wheel off the ground, then use a fish scale to see how many pounds of force it takes to get the wheel to turn after applying & releasing the brakes. If I get one value out of whack from the others it should indicate that caliper is dragging.
I also did buy an infrared thermometer. I will take the RV for a drive, then stop and measure the temperatures of the wheels and rotors. The non-contact thermometer was only $10 on sale at Harbor Freight.
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Old 08-20-2006, 07:53 AM   #5
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You might also want to check/repack your wheel packings if you haven't already.

A wheel bearing going bad will cause this.

Ron
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Old 08-20-2006, 09:00 AM   #6
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Ron,

I am repacking my bearing today also. I was afraid of the job, but it is actually very easy. I've got one side done now and am ready to tackle the other side. I checked the questionable wheel with the fish scale by wrapping a string around outer diameter of the tire. It took about 20 pounds of pull to get it moving, then about 14 pounds to keep it going (slowly). I'll compare to the other wheel when I get that side jacked up.
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Old 08-20-2006, 09:12 AM   #7
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The side in question about sticking caliper, should show decrease in thickness of pad material over opposite side. Also any appreciable sticking would I believe cause some steering pull, or pull upon braking, or both.

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Old 08-20-2006, 09:54 AM   #8
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I wonder how much drag bearing grease applys to the hub when cold compared to after it reaches road temparture? Be sure an leave the proper clearance when thigtening the nut.
That can cause a problem also.
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Old 08-20-2006, 11:33 AM   #9
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If the caliper is not sliding well enough the outer pad may show more wear then the inner. If the piston is sticking, probably inner and outer pads would be more worn then other wheels.
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Old 08-20-2006, 03:53 PM   #10
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Pull force on the left was about 14 pounds to keep it rotating. On the right, the pull force for the first one or two revolutions was also 14 pounds, but then it decreased to about 8 pounds.

I reassembled everything after repacking the bearings. Still the 2 yr old calipers & pads, but I put in new slide pins that hold the calipers in place.

After traveling about 20 miles in the highway and local roads, here is what I measured for temperatures.

RIMS
150F left front
130F right front

Center of hub
162 left front
140 right front

Rotors
exceeding 230 left front
about 200 right front

sidewall of tires
141 left front
120 right front

So, the left front is getting to a higher temperature than the right. The left side is also the tire that had the sidewall damage a few weeks ago. Although the left was hotter, both sides were actually quite hot. Uncomfortable to hold my hand on the rims. I ordered new loaded calipers today. I'll put them on tomorrow and repeat the temperature and pull force experiments.
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Old 08-20-2006, 05:06 PM   #11
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Did you check the air pressure in your tires while they were cold?
Lower air pressure in a tire will increase the temperature in it also.

Have your ever had your coach weighted at each wheel to see what each individual tire/wheel was carrying?

It does look like you have a caliper hanging up according to the temps or different air flow at the left wheel not cooling it.

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Old 08-20-2006, 05:39 PM   #12
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Ron,
I never have weighed my RV. Probably is a bit heavier on the left side. That side has the generator, fresh water tank, oven, microwave.

For my test today, the left front had 78 pounds of air pressure and the right had 76 pounds (cold).
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Old 08-20-2006, 06:21 PM   #13
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I believe I would have my coach weighted at each wheel and make sure that I wasn't overloading a tire. I would also set the tire pressure to the recommended pressure by the tire manufacturers chart for the weight at each axle.

Not trying to sound like a Michelin rep, but most tire problems are caused by overloading and wrong pressure. This causes heat build up and failures.

Stepping Down off soap box...

Ron
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Old 08-23-2006, 12:32 PM   #14
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I'm surprised you haven't mentioned anything about the coach pulling to the left. It's common for that to happen with a sticking caliper on the left front.
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