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Old 01-19-2012, 07:24 AM   #29
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I realize there is a certain amount of moisture in diesel all the time but that amount is real low in PPM compared to sucking up water from the bottom of the tank and pushing it into an injector. I believe we are talking two different definitions here. This is one reason I only use the Racor AquaBloc II primary fuel filters and not any other brand. I do use WIX as a secondary filter

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Old 01-20-2012, 06:30 AM   #30
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Running until filters plug is an indication of moisture not a situation of drawing water from the bottom of the tank which would have caused catestrophic engine damage in very short order-its extremely difficult to compress water.

Then again if I were the smartest person in the world I would not be doing what I do to try and get by.

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Old 01-20-2012, 10:20 AM   #31
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Again a difference in definitions. I am not talking about that much water. If you have enough water in the fuel system to worry about hydro-compression then you are in serious trouble.
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:28 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elkhartjim View Post
Interesting statement, roughroads. Do some manufacturers install something other than metal fuel tanks? Thats a pretty scary thought...plastic fuel tanks.
They stopped using metal because they rust out. Most use soem sort of composit tanks and I belieeve they are replaced about every 5 years or so.
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:38 AM   #33
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Diesel tanks normally do not rust out. Gasoline tanks can rust. Which ones are you talking about? The reason they went to plastic tanks in cars, PU's and SUVs was that they flex under impact rather than split and they can be molded to fit in unique areas so they could move the tank away from the rear impact area on most cars. I seriously doubt that the car makers care about long term rust.

Big capacity diesel tanks in motorhomes are made out of steel because of the weight of the large amounts of fuel they carry.
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:45 AM   #34
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Mike, Tell them how Bio (Alcohol) absorbs moisture.
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:57 AM   #35
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All I can say there is what I know from racing. We use methanol and not ethanol but it may apply to both. If one leaves the storage can/tank open it will absorb water from the atmosphere and will fail the specific gravity test that we are required to do after runs. Also both methanol and ethanol are very corrosive. We have to drain our whole fuel system after a day at the races and squirt WD-40 into it to pickle it. This is why the current limit on adding ethanol to gasoline is kept at 10%. At 15% then your fuel system is in trouble. I believe newer car's fuel systems have been changed to help prevent this corrosion.
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Old 01-26-2012, 09:01 AM   #36
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BINGO!!!
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Old 01-27-2012, 05:54 AM   #37
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and an even bigger 'bingo' for bio diesel in any concentration-
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Old 01-28-2012, 01:03 AM   #38
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I've owned my DP for 6 years now. I always keep my fuel tank full when the RV is not in use, regardless of the time of year. We live in Southern California so moisture is not much of an issue. I have never had any fuel problems.

All that being said, I have never used a biocide. I add Pri-D fuel stabilizer every winter when I put the coach into storage. Although I have yet to discover any water or algae in my fuel system, I am now wondering if I shouldn't be using something like Bio Kleen every winter, instead of, or in addition to the Pri-D.

Any thoughts?

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Old 01-28-2012, 05:17 PM   #39
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Craig, Pri D is a new one to me;

PRI Advanced Fuel Treatments

After such a great track record with this additive I would not change a thing.

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