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Old 09-09-2013, 02:01 PM   #1
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Swaying

We are set up in a real nice COE park, and it didn't take much extending of the jacks to get the coach level. My question is this: How much does you Class A(gas) sway, wiggle or just move when someone walks or sits down when on jacks? It seems to me that mine does it more than what I think is normal, also feels like it's moving when according to the glass of water test it's not..
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Old 09-09-2013, 02:40 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by pddgm View Post
We are set up in a real nice COE park, and it didn't take much extending of the jacks to get the coach level. My question is this: How much does you Class A(gas) sway, wiggle or just move when someone walks or sits down when on jacks? It seems to me that mine does it more than what I think is normal, also feels like it's moving when according to the glass of water test it's not..
pddgm,
First off, just for yours/my satisfaction, are ALL the jacks TOUCHING the ground? The reason I ask is, on our previous coach, a '99 Bounder 34V with the V-10 and F-53 Chassis, every once in a while one of the jacks, while camping would not be touching the ground. I never did find out why that peculiar situation happened but, it did and, it would cause what you're describing.

Now, if all yours ARE touching, then I'm not sure just where to go from here. Our present coach, an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the 330 CAT, has the HWH system and, it's a pretty stout system. We get some movement in the coach when at a camp spot and are dead level but, not much. I sometimes think it should be more stable than it is but, it may be asking too much of a system like that in a 36' rig with at least some slight potential for movement.

Now, I've never heard of "a" particular jack, FLOATING, as in, just sitting on the ground and not locked in place which, would be another cause of your somewhat unstable issue. So, it will be good to know if you find anything out that may have caused or, might be causing your issues.
Scott
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Old 09-09-2013, 03:19 PM   #3
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You might try extending jacks another inch to make sure all are in contact with ground and fully supporting the frame. Then you can dance and jump and see if it moves much. Often when on a level site, especially auto level jacks won't even extend all the way before they shut down because they sense level.
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Old 09-09-2013, 03:47 PM   #4
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I moved up from a TT to our DP and boy is it a night and day improvement. We get verry little movement. Our TT, even with the jacks deployed "and then some" would move around a lot (as well as creak and moan).

If you are new to your MH and just want to get a reference point, make friendly with someone that has a similar rig next time you are at a campground and ask them. You could even ask them to test it in YOUR rig so you don't seem to presumptuous.

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Old 09-16-2013, 10:56 AM   #5
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to address the floating jack issue. if it is an hwh automatic system, the pressure switch controls the last function of the leveling.(stabilizing) if the jack goes down, and doesnt make good contact with the surface, the pressure switch can be adjusted. loosen the lock nut, and turn the plastic part 1/4 turn in. this will increase the pressure required to extend the jack to the point the control box recognizes it as down.
the leveling system is intended to level, and stabilize the coach. that said, its not a foundation. there is a lot of flex in the suspension, and framework of the coach that affect the movement after leveling. if you think your framework doesnt move, listen to the pops, squeaks, and cracking sounds when the sun comes up or goes down, or when you are driving.
providing blocks under the foot, when parked on grass or gravel will help a lot.
it prevents the foot sinking into the ground. you can also try extending the jacks a few more inches, and take some of the weight off the suspension.
i have worked on all brands of leveling systems since 1973. there is no system that stops all movement.
i have owned one trailer, and five motorhomes. four of the motorhomes had leveling systems. none of them had absolutely no movement when leveled.
there is even a difference in chassis. chevy frames seem to move more than fords, because of frame width, i guess. just my opinion.
the blocks seem to have the most effect. i use a 2x12 24 inches long under each foot.
as honey boo boo says, it is what it is. most people do all the above, and just learn to live with it.
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Old 09-16-2013, 11:37 AM   #6
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Hi pddgm,
The problem is easy to fix.
1. level the coach as you normally would.
2. Lower the jacks a good 2" more. Sometimes 3 or more inches is needed.
The coach will now be as stable as it will ever be.
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:09 PM   #7
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I've found I've had to lower the jacks another inch or so on the second or third day when parked on gravel/grass/compacted sand due to the jacks settling into the surface a little - even though I use pretty good size blocks under all 4 corners. After the second time around, it's good to go as long as I want.
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Old 09-17-2013, 09:11 AM   #8
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I have tried several of the suggestions this time and before. I am about to come to the conclusion, either my shocks are wore completely out(coach rides good on highway) or I am way to sensitive to the motion. I am almost ready to put a block under the living room slide to see if they will stop it. I know slide jacks are not recommended anymore, but willing to try anything. When we get to Florida, we will be on a concrete pad, I will wait and see what happens there.
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Old 09-17-2013, 10:00 AM   #9
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I have tried several of the suggestions this time and before. I am about to come to the conclusion, either my shocks are wore completely out(coach rides good on highway) or I am way to sensitive to the motion. I am almost ready to put a block under the living room slide to see if they will stop it. I know slide jacks are not recommended anymore, but willing to try anything. When we get to Florida, we will be on a concrete pad, I will wait and see what happens there.
Slide blocks will likely damage the slide. Not a good trade off and doubtful it would work.

I manually level. First rear, then front, then L/R as required. Works!
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