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Old 08-22-2016, 09:42 PM   #1
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'Temporary' fixes for small things?

Just curious if you guys ever 'temporarily' fix things in your RV in odd ways. For example our curtain rod broke in our bedroom so we used a bungee cord instead. And I'm surprised to say it works astonishingly well. The curtains don't ever fall anymore and we don't have to worry about the curtains being too heavy.

Share your small fixes you do, it might give me a few ideas on keeping this old thing running.
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Old 08-22-2016, 11:24 PM   #2
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Duct tape and zip ties are my, main temporary fix materials.
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Old 08-22-2016, 11:26 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamfolger View Post
Duct tape and zip ties are my, main temporary fix materials.
Bubble gum and baling wire here. (-:
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Old 08-23-2016, 05:24 AM   #4
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I carry an assortment of glues, wire, tape, screws, solvents, paint, lubricants, etc. Walmart, home centers are always nearby. And most importantly enough tools and "mechanical ability" to fix most anything
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Old 08-23-2016, 09:11 AM   #5
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Yup, when you're out in the middle of nowhere and something breaks, you gotta have enough common sense to "Rube Goldberg" it!
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Old 08-23-2016, 09:25 AM   #6
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Yup, when you're out in the middle of nowhere and something breaks, you gotta have enough common sense to "Rube Goldberg" it!


If it is supposed to move and doesn't...use WD-40.
If it moves and is not supposed to...use Duct Tape.
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Old 08-23-2016, 09:25 AM   #7
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Like they say..
If it moves and it shouldn't use Duct tape.
If it don't move and it should use WD40
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Old 08-23-2016, 09:54 AM   #8
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The window crank mechanism on our 5th wheel broke and the window just flopped around in the breeze. I ended up using duct tape, a bungee and broom to secure it closed. It stayed that way for about a year until I got around 60 fabricating parts out of aluminum stock to repair the mechanism. The crank parts weren't available so I was going to have to replace the entire window.
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Old 08-23-2016, 05:07 PM   #9
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I had to replace the rubber caps on the ball joints on the front of our chassis one time, I don't remember the correct name but the ones next to the zerk fittings. I bought factory caps to do the job, they lasted about week, so I cut a tennis ball in half and put a half tennis ball on each side. That was about 10 years ago and they are still there.
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Old 08-23-2016, 06:29 PM   #10
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I had to replace the rubber caps on the ball joints on the front of our chassis one time, I don't remember the correct name but the ones next to the zerk fittings. I bought factory caps to do the job, they lasted about week, so I cut a tennis ball in half and put a half tennis ball on each side. That was about 10 years ago and they are still there.
great idea
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Old 08-26-2016, 06:34 PM   #11
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We had a tee fitting in the water heater bypass start to leak on the last day of our camping trip. Because of the tight access, we duct taped a zip lock bag underneath to catch the water. Worked good for a day until.i could fix permanently.
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Old 08-27-2016, 03:14 PM   #12
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Quote:
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We had a tee fitting in the water heater bypass start to leak on the last day of our camping trip. Because of the tight access, we duct taped a zip lock bag underneath to catch the water. Worked good for a day until.i could fix permanently.
A few years ago when we had our trailer we had some very slow dripping in about the same spot as you, and I put some plastic wrap down and then a wad of paper towels. We just replaced the paper towels every few days (it only leaked when the system was pressurized), and eventually replaced the water heater with a continuous water heater unit, which allowed me to replumb everything (and no more leaks).

On a related note, I've found that toilet paper is the best way to check for very slow leaks...this is handy when checking for leaks around hidden fittings that cannot be seen directly. After doing any plumbing job (in the MH or at the house) I pressurize the system and wait 30 minutes or so, then take some toilet paper and rub around all the joints, especially those that I cannot see directly. If it comes back dry I seal the wall (or whatever) and consider the job done.

While not a "fix", I purchased an inspection camera with about a long snake with a lighted IP67 rated camera on the end. It was on sale at Home Depot...less than $100 if I recall. It's useful to look in/behind/around things that are otherwise not visible, and it can be used to inspect inside your grey/black tanks (from the sewer connection or in through the toilet) if you needed to look around for "poop pyramids" and such.
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Old 08-28-2016, 07:30 PM   #13
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My temporary fix turned into a permanent one. The Slide Lock arm above my head would rattle terribly when the vehicle was in motion. I tried to adjust the little nut that was supposed to stop that noise but it was not effective. I used a bungee cord to keep upward tension on the middle of the lock arm. I wrapped it under the middle of the arm and hooked it to the map light and the slide molding. Problem solved.
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Old 09-04-2016, 08:57 AM   #14
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I put a couple of zipties on the arms of my big awning. I either use a real
long one, preferred or if I don't have one I used 2 or 3 small ones. I don't
think it will ever unroll anyway as the springs were replaced and its really
tight.

The tow bars that fold up to the motorhome, I worry about dropping down
when not in use, so I have 2 bungee cords to wrap around and tie up to
the bumper in back. Just an extra precaution. Hate to back up and one
fall then run it in the engine or something, DH does the same.

Inside a couple of the kitchen drawers would fly open when we are going
down the road. Hubby found a metal ruler, bent the end so its even with
the countertop. Now we just slide it down the 4 drawer handles and the
drawers stay closed!!

These are permanent fixes for us and works well.
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