Three stage charger overcharging?

[EXFFPM]

I just installed an Iota converter three stage charger (DLS 55 with IQ4) and replaced/updated the circuit board in the Intellitec Battery Control Center so that now both the coach and chassis batteries charge from shore power or generator as well as the alternator. It occurred to me that the house batteries will be discharged far more often than the chassis battery, and since the three stage charger will sense that, will it overcharge the chassis battery while recharging the coach batteries (two 6 volt Trojan T-105 in series)? Intellitec has eliminated their technical department, so are of no help whatever....great customer service? Or does the Intellitec have the capability of sensing and controlling that?

EXFFPM

[hamguy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by EXFFPM I just installed an Iota converter three stage charger (DLS 55 with IQ4) and replaced/updated the circuit board in the Intellitec Battery Control Center so that now both the coach and chassis batteries charge from shore power or generator as well as the alternator. It occurred to me that the house batteries will be discharged far more often than the chassis battery, and since the three stage charger will sense that, will it overcharge the chassis battery while recharging the coach batteries (two 6 volt Trojan T-105 in series)? Intellitec has eliminated their technical department, so are of no help whatever....great customer service? Or does the Intellitec have the capability of sensing and controlling that? EXFFPM

You are correct. You shouldn't change a working system. I had problems with my charging systems and replaced the original converter with PD6160. I continued to have overcharged house batts (reducing lifetime to <2 years). I found out that the alternator was overcharging the house batts. It had a 14.8V regulator when the proper regulator is 14.2. When I replaced the regulator, all problems went away.

The Isolation solenoid separates the battery systems when charging from the alternator. In all other situations, the convertor charges the house.

None of the smart chargers can sense which battery is fully charged. It treats them all to the condition of the weakest.

I guess what I am saying is, PUT THE WIRING BACK THE WAY IT WAS.

[EXFFPM]

Hamguy,

Thanks for your response. I didn't have a working system as I also had problems with my charging system and replaced the charger/converter as you did. It is my understanding that the regulator is built into the alternator....where is yours located or how did you find it to change it?

Since I have replaced the converter/charger with an updated three stage charging circuit and the circuit board in my battery control center...
there is no putting it back.

Can you tell me more about this regulator you replaced?

Thanks!

[hamguy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by EXFFPM Hamguy, Thanks for your response. I didn't have a working system as I also had problems with my charging system and replaced the charger/converter as you did. It is my understanding that the regulator is built into the alternator....where is yours located or how did you find it to change it? Since I have replaced the converter/charger with an updated three stage charging circuit and the circuit board in my battery control center... there is no putting it back. Can you tell me more about this regulator you replaced? Thanks!

I fought the battery problem for 5 years. Best I could do with the PD converter was 2 years b4 the batts were shot. I had always considered the 14.8 volts from the regulator to be too high but everyone said, "well it is high but OK"! Bull. I went to a guy that really knows his business and he agreed.

Now, on my alternator, the regulator is replaceable AND adjustable. I think it was 45 bux. Anyway, if you read charging voltage above 14.2 or.3, get it fixed.

Oh, another point. Alternators put out a voltage to DRIVE current. When driving, the batteries (house and coach) are in parallel. IF the engine battery is bad, it will call on the regulator to pump lotsa current (higher voltage). So a bad engine battery will cause your house battery to be overcharged (and vice versa).

[Gary RVRoamer]

Your BCC is smart enough to avoid overcharging when connecting the two sets of batteries. If the house batteries are low and the chassis is not, the isolator remains open and only the house charges. If the chassis is low and the house is low, they both charge until the status changes. If chassis is low and house is ok, the isolator closes and the house bateries contribute to charging the chassis (dropping the house voltage) and both get charged by the converter/charger.

Yu can download a service manual for your model of BCC from the Intelletc web site. You need to know the specific model of BCC that you have. However, they all use pretty much the same isolator & charge management algorithm and that algorithm is explained in detail in the service manuals.

[hamguy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RV Roamer [Gary] Your BCC is smart enough to avoid overcharging when connecting the two sets of batteries. If the house batteries are low and the chassis is not, the isolator remains open and only the house charges. If the chassis is low and the house is low, they both charge until the status changes. If chassis is low and house is ok, the isolator closes and the house bateries contribute to charging the chassis (dropping the house voltage) and both get charged by the converter/charger. Yu can download a service manual for your model of BCC from the Intelletc web site. You need to know the specific model of BCC that you have. However, they all use pretty much the same isolator & charge management algorithm and that algorithm is explained in detail in the service manuals.

What kind of charger has that kind of intelligence? Could you point me to a URL for it? My PD9260 connects to the isolation solenoid which is on (connecting both battery sets together) when the engine is running. It puts out current to both as there is no way on my rig to separate them.

Confused.

Thanks
Dean

[hamguy]

"What kind of charger has that kind of intelligence? Could you point me to a URL for it? My PD9260 connects to the isolation solenoid which is on (connecting both battery sets together) when the engine is running. It puts out current to both as there is no way on my rig to separate them. "

I misspoke. Some RV's use a solid state isolator. BUT, The alternator voltage fed to it is distributed to both the engine battery at full voltage and to the house at ~0.6V lower due to the built in diode drop. As the house battery comes to full charge, the current will drop. Of course, with a normal charging system with a ~14.2VDC alternator, your house battery will not charge to over 13.6. But that is fully charged anyway.

[wa8yxm]

What kind of charger has that kind of intellegence?

It's not the charger, it is the battery control center (Isolator)

Most isolators simply look to see if the engine is running and so many seconds after you start the engine they connect the two batteries together

The Intelletec Battery Control Center system however is different.

It measures the voltage on both house and engine batteries, If the batteries on one side are at full charge, or nearly full charge, then it connects them together. If the voltage should drop, then it isolates them.

I have had it happen where for one reason or another my "house" batteries were very low.. When I started the engine since the chassis battery was nearly full, the addition of the alternator quickly caused the voltage to go to the "Connect" level, but since the house was low the voltage then went to the ISOLATE level.. A fan hooked directly to the house batteries went from low speed to full to low again about 3 times before the system latched.

The Intelletec system is designed to both charge both house and chassis batteries off any available charge (House converter or alternator) And to protect "The ohter" battery should one system overly discharge.

It is beyond a doubt the best concept in a battery isolator that exists. I won't say it is the best possible system.. (I have not seen every system out there) but it is the best possible concept (And may well be the best system, as I said, I've not seen them all, I've never seen one better though) my only complaint against it is the el-cheap remote switch

[Gary RVRoamer]

Thanks for explaining that, wa8yxm. Saved me a lot of typing!

[wa8yxm]

My Pleasure Gary.

[hamguy]

Thst looks like a very neat charge control. Wish I had it in my 02 Itasca. Thanks for the info.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wa8yxm What kind of charger has that kind of intellegence? It's not the charger, it is the battery control center (Isolator) Most isolators simply look to see if the engine is running and so many seconds after you start the engine they connect the two batteries together The Intelletec Battery Control Center system however is different. It measures the voltage on both house and engine batteries, If the batteries on one side are at full charge, or nearly full charge, then it connects them together. If the voltage should drop, then it isolates them. I have had it happen where for one reason or another my "house" batteries were very low.. When I started the engine since the chassis battery was nearly full, the addition of the alternator quickly caused the voltage to go to the "Connect" level, but since the house was low the voltage then went to the ISOLATE level.. A fan hooked directly to the house batteries went from low speed to full to low again about 3 times before the system latched. The Intelletec system is designed to both charge both house and chassis batteries off any available charge (House converter or alternator) And to protect "The ohter" battery should one system overly discharge. It is beyond a doubt the best concept in a battery isolator that exists. I won't say it is the best possible system.. (I have not seen every system out there) but it is the best possible concept (And may well be the best system, as I said, I've not seen them all, I've never seen one better though) my only complaint against it is the el-cheap remote switch

[wa8yxm]

If you have a simpler "traditional" isolator that only works one way (Charges the house off the engine, but lets the engine battery slowly die if you are parked and plugged in) you can add the reverse charge capability (Charge the chassis off the house system) easily.. Simple 3 wire hookup in fact.

Two products: One is called "Trick-l-start" and is the one most folks like, it is not as expensive as the Xantrex Echo Charger

NOTE: I do recommend using these only with Qualiity 3-stage converters. NOT with older cheaper single stage jobs.

But as I said, simple 3-wire hook up

At the isolator solenoid you hook one wire to each side, and the remaining wire is a ground. it's that easy