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Old 03-15-2009, 07:59 PM   #15
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Wow. I have never had to add more than a few pounds of air to any of my tires but I would like to have the added safety of a more remote device. What king of gadget do you need to have added to the end of the hose? Is it one of those things with the flip-up handle?

I had an awning replaced at my local CW store last week and they did a complimentary '8 point safety check.' When they measured the pressure in my rear duals (85 psi based on my actual weight and the Goodyear load-inflation chart), they aired them up to 100 psi. When they told me that, I had them release air back to 85 since that is my normal pressure. Their mechanic insisted that 85 psi was too low for any 22.5" motorhome tire and that sidewall flexing was a problem. (I run 105 in the fronts).
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Old 03-15-2009, 08:25 PM   #16
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To check to make sure yer tires aren't overheating, after doing a long freeway run, immeadiately get out and put your hand to the side walls. If they're hot to the touch, you need more air.

Case in point, my rear tires (Which bear 98% of the load), have never been more than slightly warm both on the tread surface and the side wall after several hundred miles of operation. But, I run them at full load capacity PSI for safety.

If I remember correctly, any commercial range tire 19.5 and above require their upper pressure limit to ensure the bead stays seated properly as well.

For that matter, any tire size that's a .5" doesn't have the beadlocks in the rim like a Even number tire size, which can handle lower PSI without the tire throwing the bead.
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Old 03-15-2009, 08:30 PM   #17
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Wink

I talked with the neighbor and the fellow was lucky all he got was cuts and abrasions from the flying parts. He was lucky that it was the inside dual and the outside tire tempered the explosion and threw most of the debris to the outside and he was kneeling in the middle.

Rockin Tom you know I went back and looked at the tire recommendation from a couple of tire mfg. and they say 4 years at best and if bad sidewall cracks sooner. You werer closer than I.

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Old 03-16-2009, 07:23 PM   #18
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My manual has a warning that states "For safety purposes clear the area of people and pets during tire inflation. Inflate tires using a remote inflation device."

It also has an illustration of a bus type MH with the individual using the remote inflation device while standing 12' away.

???: Anyone have one? Where did you get it? Approximate price is?

???: If only checking pressure, does the remote warning still apply?
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Old 03-17-2009, 05:12 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nonno View Post
My manual has a warning that states "For safety purposes clear the area of people and pets during tire inflation. Inflate tires using a remote inflation device."

It also has an illustration of a bus type MH with the individual using the remote inflation device while standing 12' away.

???: Anyone have one? Where did you get it? Approximate price is?

???: If only checking pressure, does the remote warning still apply?
I get one of these, remove the dual chuck and replace it with a coil hose with a clip-on chuck.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90670

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46788

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97923

A coupling will be required to mate the male end of the coil hose to the air valve/gauge unit.

Costs about $15 to make one up.

As long as you are not removing a lot of air or the tire is not in very poor shape as in buldges, foreign objects sticking in them, weather checked, hot or discolored, obviously underinflated then no you should not require a remote to check tire pressure however common sense applies that when in doubt use the remote. I check my tires with a laser thermometer first and if they are over 130 degrees I treat them with extra caution. Properly inflated and loaded I don't ever see them get to that temp but that is one of the warning signs for me to be wary.
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Old 03-17-2009, 07:04 AM   #20
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All that you need is a "crows foot" locking chuck-- The internal threads lock it on-- $11. Go here:

http://www.gemplers.com/product/M788...k-on-Air-Chuck

No locking lever required. Just a very slight angle locks it on-- Been using one for years--.

(Monoco Mama-- I can't find out how to do the site insertion on this new program-- I have to copy and paste now-- Help Me-- Please )

AIR CHUCK
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Old 03-17-2009, 07:37 AM   #21
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I'm not Monaco Mama, but here's how you do it:

1. In the body of the post you're creating, type the descriptive text you want to be displayed as the link (in this example, AIR CHUCK)

2. Highlight the descriptive text (i.e., roll your mouse over it with the left button depressed just as if you're going to do a Cut or Copy)

3. Go up to the tool bar and click on the Link icon (it looks like a chain in front of a globe)

4. Insert your link's URL in the box

5. Click OK and you're done

If you'll note, I've done this in your post above.


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Old 03-17-2009, 07:54 AM   #22
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Thanks Rusty-- MM knows I'm computer challenged.

My mother used to say "Maxie can fix anything but a broken heart". She never would have said that about computers :(.
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Old 03-20-2009, 08:10 PM   #23
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98% on the rear? I think not.





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Originally Posted by RedneckExpress View Post

Case in point, my rear tires (Which bear 98% of the load), have never been more than slightly warm both on the tread surface and the side wall after several hundred miles of operation.
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Old 03-20-2009, 09:21 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Foy View Post
98% on the rear? I think not.
Sir, have you ever owned an 11' Slide-in Truck Camper? As is the case with most truck campers, the vast majority of the weight sits directly over the rear axle and extends out behind the truck. To summarize in Motorhome Terms, I'm a small class C, but whose "Home" portion detaches from the "Motor".

In my case, based upon the readings on the scales, the camper adds 300-400lbs to the front axle, out of its 3500lb total weight, and the rest rides over the rear. So, my rough number of the rear bearing "98%" is fairly accurate for conversational purposes.

We can crunch the numbers and get the exact percentage, which boils down to between between 8-11% of the camper's total weight is carried by the front, thus making the total load borne by the rear being between 89-92%.

So, wouldn't you concur that the rear axle bears "the vast majority of the weight" or if one wanted to turn that english phrase into a general conversational numeric, "98%".

For the record, the last fully scaled weight for this truck/camper combo was 9820lbs.
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Old 03-21-2009, 10:29 AM   #25
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Let's do the math. You say the rig weighs 9820 and the camper weighs 3500. That means the truck weighs 6320.

Since you didn't list axle weights, I will assume a weight on the truck without the shell of 60% rear and 40% front.

That gives us 3792 rear and 2928 front. Then add 3100 to the rear and 400 to the front.

That gives us 6892 rear and 2928 front. That translates into 70% rear and 30% front.

70% is a long way from 98%.





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Sir, have you ever owned an 11' Slide-in Truck Camper? As is the case with most truck campers, the vast majority of the weight sits directly over the rear axle and extends out behind the truck. To summarize in Motorhome Terms, I'm a small class C, but whose "Home" portion detaches from the "Motor".

In my case, based upon the readings on the scales, the camper adds 300-400lbs to the front axle, out of its 3500lb total weight, and the rest rides over the rear. So, my rough number of the rear bearing "98%" is fairly accurate for conversational purposes.

We can crunch the numbers and get the exact percentage, which boils down to between between 8-11% of the camper's total weight is carried by the front, thus making the total load borne by the rear being between 89-92%.

So, wouldn't you concur that the rear axle bears "the vast majority of the weight" or if one wanted to turn that english phrase into a general conversational numeric, "98%".

For the record, the last fully scaled weight for this truck/camper combo was 9820lbs.
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Old 03-21-2009, 12:49 PM   #26
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Sorry, that should have been 2528 for the front of the unloaded truck. Still works out to 70% rear.
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Old 03-21-2009, 03:25 PM   #27
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Well, to get the full weight answer, I went back to Clayton-Ward Recycling (I use their scale when they're not open since they leave it on and its large enough to get all 4 tires on at the same time if one likes) this morning and re-weighted the truck and camper.

From the scales this morning:


Front end Empty: 3230lbs
Front end Loaded: 3560lbs

Rear End Empty: 3020lbs
Rear End Loaded: 6270lbs

Total Empty Weight: 6250lbs
Total Loaded Weight: 9830lbs

Difference between front empty and front loaded: 330lbs
Difference between rear empty and rear loaded: 3250lbs

Total weight of camper: 330lbs + 3250lbs = 3580lbs
Percentage on Front Axle: (330lbs / 3580lbs) * 100 = 0.0921 * 100 = 9.21%
Percentage of Rear Axle: (3250lbs / 3580lbs) * 100 = 0.9078 * 100 = 90.78%

All numbers include my weight in the driver's seat during the weigh in.
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Old 03-21-2009, 04:06 PM   #28
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You are missing the fact that you only need the weights of the loaded rig. You are right that the percentage of the CAMPER weight on the rear to front is 90.78% but that is meaningless. We are debating the weight distribution of the TOTAL rig with camper as it rolls down the road.

6270 for the rear/9830 total equals 63.7% on the rear.




Quote:
Originally Posted by RedneckExpress View Post
Well, to get the full weight answer, I went back to Clayton-Ward Recycling (I use their scale when they're not open since they leave it on and its large enough to get all 4 tires on at the same time if one likes) this morning and re-weighted the truck and camper.

From the scales this morning:


Front end Empty: 3230lbs
Front end Loaded: 3560lbs

Rear End Empty: 3020lbs
Rear End Loaded: 6270lbs

Total Empty Weight: 6250lbs
Total Loaded Weight: 9830lbs

Difference between front empty and front loaded: 330lbs
Difference between rear empty and rear loaded: 3250lbs

Total weight of camper: 330lbs + 3250lbs = 3580lbs
Percentage on Front Axle: (330lbs / 3580lbs) * 100 = 0.0921 * 100 = 9.21%
Percentage of Rear Axle: (3250lbs / 3580lbs) * 100 = 0.9078 * 100 = 90.78%

All numbers include my weight in the driver's seat during the weigh in.
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