Community Forums

RJEV · 02-07-2016, 12:44 PM

We just completed our totally enclosed MH garage where we will be parking our Tiffin 33AA. The pad is 4000psi concrete approx. 5 in thick. Should we put rubber pads or some other form of moisture barrier under the tires when we store it for extended times?
Thanks,
RJ

BFlinn181 · 02-07-2016, 01:06 PM

Boy, opinions go every which way on this idea! Some think the axles should be supported and the tires off the concrete. Others suggest rubber mats, or the kind of plastic runner used under a rolling desk chair, etc. Lifting the RV with the leveling jacks to remove some of the weight, inflating tires to maximum PSI, is another suggestion.

Doing nothing, in a garage, is another option. I really don't think, that unless you're leaving it for years, you're going to damage your tires. They typically age out before they wear out, regardless of how you're parked. All bets off if you're parked on asphalt, in the sun!

Mr_D · 02-07-2016, 01:13 PM

We've parked on gravel for years and never put anything under the tires, replaced tires after about 8½ years with the Dutch Star. With the Magna we only have air leveling so I can't take any weight off the tires.

I think Bob's statement above is good.

dennis45 · 02-07-2016, 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

Boy, opinions go every which way on this idea! Some think the axles should be supported and the tires off the concrete. Others suggest rubber mats, or the kind of plastic runner used under a rolling desk chair, etc. Lifting the RV with the leveling jacks to remove some of the weight, inflating tires to maximum PSI, is another suggestion.

Doing nothing, in a garage, is another option. I really don't think, that unless you're leaving it for years, you're going to damage your tires. They typically age out before they wear out, regardless of how you're parked. All bets off if you're parked on asphalt, in the sun!

I agree with this.
I painted my garage floor with Epoxy Paint to brighten it up and also to keep the dust down. I use four Wallyworld type mats folded in half under each jack pad and extend the jacks to max when I'm parked. Nothing under the tires.

scenic route · 02-07-2016, 05:36 PM

With today's tire technology/rubber compounds, I think tire leaching is pretty much a non issue.

Pusherman · 02-07-2016, 05:53 PM

It sure won't hurt to put some sort of vapor barrier between the concrete floor and the rubber tire. Lots of good suggestions on this forum on how to do so. Most products available from Wally world, such as the thin style plastic cutting boards. Howabout Tyvec sheets. Maybe plywood. Lots of good ideas. Whether it's necessary, I don't know.

My coach has HWH leveling jacks, and I do store it in the barn with the jacks down, relieving some of the weight off the tires. HWH says this is OK.

Last set of shoes lasted 9 years (I know, too long - got new tires this past spring).

P.S. It was beautiful in Rochester today, so took the coach out on an exercise run. Got it up to operating temperatures and put it back in the barn for a little more while. It really enjoyed coming out for a run. Ran the generator under load while putting about 20 miles on the coach. Exercise is a good thing!

wildtoad · 02-07-2016, 06:45 PM

I would follow Goodyears recommendations for long term storage. Wash the tires, inflate them up by 25%, take some weight off of them but keep the tires in contact with the ground. Stored inside, they should be fine without putting pads under them.

Ray,IN · 02-07-2016, 09:09 PM

I do not put anything under my MH tires in the garage (concrete floor w/waterproof sealant). Like some have said, it can't hurt to put something waterproof under tires.

RJEV · 02-08-2016, 06:01 AM

Thanks to everyone. I hadn't thought about painting/sealing and might try that. Even if not needed it would look nice.
RJ

Grey Ghost I · 02-08-2016, 08:43 AM

My tires are protected by the rubber in the tires.

Cat320 · 02-08-2016, 08:59 AM

From my Michelin manual:

"Some storage surfaces can cause tires to age faster. That's why Michelin recommends placing a barrier (cardboard, plastic or plywood) between the tire and the storage surface. Here are some other steps the RV owner can take to help reduce the aging effects from long term storage:

1. Thoroughly clean with soap and water.

2. Cover the tires to block direct sunlight and ultraviolet rays.

3. Store out of a high ozone area."

FIRE UP · 02-08-2016, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RJEV

Thanks to everyone. I hadn't thought about painting/sealing and might try that. Even if not needed it would look nice.
RJ

RJEV,
Well, as you can read, lot's of variables. Everyone's got an idea of what's right and wrong and, even if they don't, then they go to a tire makers website and be guided by what they read there. We've owned 4 coaches over a 30 year period and, ALL of them have spent months on end, parked on concrete. Not one time have I ever put anything under them.

There's a gazillion cars/trucks/motor homes/motorcycles/boat trailers/camp trailers/Fifth wheel trailers/ and whole ton more of rolling stock items out there that are parked on either concrete, asphalt, dirt, rocks, gravel and more, and with ZERO protection and, guess what, about 99.999% of them are activated (driven or pulled) without worrying about the tires, other than if they're inflated or not. Just how many "suffer" the consequenses of the so-called degradation of tires that are parked on any surface other than protective mats, rubber, plywood, plastic sheeting, LIFTING THEM OFF THE SURFACE, or anything else that's not the normal surfaces mentioned above, is ultra hard to prove.

Our coach, an '04 Itasca Horizon, 36GD with the C-7 330HP CAT, sits in its cave, on epoxy coated concrete, for sometimes as much as 3-4 months. I don't worry about it one bit. Yep, the jacks are down some too, as we keep the coach level 24/7 365 for various reasons. But, as one poster said above, due to todays tire technology and manufacturing processes, I doubt seriously there's any potential damage due to sitting on pure concrete for any length of time.
Scott

p.s. Below are pics of the "before" and "after". It's not only nice to park on but, work on the coach, under it, around it, and anything else that rolls. Any spills, or drips (of which there is none, on FOUR vehicles parked in those two caves) that never occur, can be wiped up then, or four days later without fear of staining.

So, put anything under your tires if you choose, if it will make you feel better. It's your coach. Enjoy.
Scott

dennis45 · 02-08-2016, 11:36 AM

Fire Up, nice space. Sure is nice not having to winterize, load and unload......
I see you went with the lines on the floor also. Mine is 16 X 48 with the overhead door off set to the left side. When I pull in, the lines tell me when I'm lined up with enough clearance to deploy the slides on the driver side without having to measure each time. I also have an arrow at the front that I use as a stop mark which lines up to the Center of the drivers front wheel.

This pic is just after we moved in and got the floor done.
The Epoxy is definitely worth it. Much easier to keep it clean.

FIRE UP · 02-08-2016, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dennis45

Fire Up, nice space. Sure is nice not having to winterize, load and unload......
I see you went with the lines on the floor also. Mine is 16 X 48 with the overhead door off set to the left side. When I pull in, the lines tell me when I'm lined up with enough clearance to deploy the slides on the driver side without having to measure each time. I also have an arrow at the front that I use as a stop mark which lines up to the Center of the drivers front wheel.

This pic is just after we moved in and got the floor done.
The Epoxy is definitely worth it. Much easier to keep it clean.

Dennis,
Also a really nice looking floor partner! While I hope I'm not treading on the OPs thread too much here, (it's all in the same context here) you are absolutely correct in keeping things clean with a floor like that. And, we had ours done, prior to us even clearing escrow, about 2 weeks before we moved in. And, the house was brand new so, we, and the builder, authorized the expoxying of the floor at that point, even though nothing was final on the purchase just yet.

To the OP, if you're even considering this option, GO FOR IT! Yeah, it might be a bit costly in the onset, without a doubt, it's worth it, EVERY TIME I WALK ON IT with socks or, barefoot. That floor is kept cleaner than even our house floor and we keep things clean.

But, if you're thinking about it, and, maybe having it professionally done, like we did, and you have options, I really like ours and, I like Dennis's too. I wanted lighter and, the speckled style just 'cause I liked it and, it will show way less scuff marks and potential damage if and when, it ever happens. But, I will say this. If I drop a small screw, washer, nut, spring, etc., that thing flat out DISAPPEARS until I get down on my hands and knees and put my eye at at the floor level and scan across.

But on Dennis's floor, you could spot that screw and washer from a mile away. So, either way will do and, anywhere in between. If you have it done professionally, you'll pay a bit more but, you'll get the job done the way it's supposed to be with the proper tools and techniques.

The lines allow me to back it in, and put it in the same EXACT SPOT each and every time. I only use the drivers side line when backing. If I ever put the coach in forward, I'd use the drivers side too, (when driving in instead of backing in) and the coach will still be in dead center of the parking area.
Scott