to fuel or not to fuel...that is the question

[pacevette]

Unfortunately, winter storage is starting to come into my mind. I feel that putting the coach away with a full fuel tank(gas) is the correct way to store it. Am I correct on this?

[Benny367]

Quote:

Originally Posted by pacevette Unfortunately, winter storage is starting to come into my mind. I feel that putting the coach away with a full fuel tank(gas) is the correct way to store it. Am I correct on this?

Yes indeed you want to fill the fuel tank for Winter storage.It keeps air and condensation out of the fuel tank. Also, add some fuel stabilizer ( STA-BIL) to the fuel tank

[Mekanic]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benny367 Yes indeed you want to fill the fuel tank for Winter storage.It keeps air and condensation out of the fuel tank. Also, add some fuel stabilizer ( STA-BIL) to the fuel tank

X2 on that good advice

[pacevette]

I figured as much thank you. Speaking of winterization, does the majority use rv antifreeze in the entire water system? On our previous MH I always blew the water lines out with air. Many will probably disagree with this but is it an acceptable practice? Always had the fear of a bad tasting water system in the spring.

[Meandering Retiree]

I use RV antifreeze. A friend tried just blowing out the lines and had some low spots freeze up....had to have them replaced....I figure it costs less than $20 to winterize if I do it myself and it is cheaper than replacing lines.

[W4MBG]

wait as long as you can for the final fill-up of the year. gas prices are coming down.

[txdutt]

x2 on the Stabil-be sure to run your generator after filling up your tank so you're sure the treated fuel gets into your gennie...you can get the big bottle of the stabil at wallyworld that'll treat up to 80 gallons IIRC for around $12 or so...

[chasfm11]

Quote:

Originally Posted by pacevette I figured as much thank you. Speaking of winterization, does the majority use rv antifreeze in the entire water system? On our previous MH I always blew the water lines out with air. Many will probably disagree with this but is it an acceptable practice? Always had the fear of a bad tasting water system in the spring.

Putting RV antifreeze in the traps is a must. It is a good idea to drain the gray tank afterward because the antifreeze displaces the water that was in the traps.

I'm a fan of blowing out the system. On ours, the most difficult part of that is getting all of the water out of the water heater. I use a regulator to keep the air pressure around 45 pounds (instead of the 120 pounds off of the compressor). We are in Texas, however, and usually on get a few days per year in the 15 degree range. Last year, we had a series of those that lasted about a week. Also, our RV is in a building that appears to buffer it from the coldest outside temperatures. A recording thermometer that I put inside the RV last year so temperatures almost 10 degrees warmer than that recorded outside lows. I chalked that up to the sun's effect on the metal building.

[Luckiest Dre]

Blowing out the lines and using antifreeze are both acceptable procedures. However if you do not get the anti freeze well into the system and completly into some of the valves or you do not get all of the water out when blowing, you may have trouble with both methods. Be sure to bypass the water heater if you use antifreeze. The heater is usually the culprit in the spring if it has antifreeze in it.
I understand that if you are using ethanol, it breaks down and it seperates after a short time. ( or it allows moisture to accumulate) Filling your tank before storage becomes questionable for many. I have not decided. Until that decision is reached I would read all about sta-bil to determine if it works properly with ethenol.

[336muffin]

Don't forget the little valve for the ice maker at the rear of the fridge. It is exposed to the cold and will freeze. Several of my friends learned this the hard way. I would unscrew and drain from the ice maker down to the valve.