Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > MH-General Discussions & Problems
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-01-2014, 04:01 PM   #29
Senior Member
 
StevieG's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Milton, NY
Posts: 915
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray,IN View Post
Someone said they use a shop vac to remove remaining water from the WH tank. Please tell me how to construct a 5/8" OD suction tube to access the anode rod hole.
The little bit of water that is left at the bottom will freeze, however there is nothing constricting it and therefore will not cause any damage to the HWH.

They sell a tube with a hose fitting on one end that you use to flush the HWH out in the fall and spring. I assume you can modify it to vacuum as well, but honestly I wouldn't bother.
__________________

__________________
Steve & Beth - Milton, New York
2006 Monaco Knight 38 PDQ
Ready Brute Elite-2016 Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4x4
StevieG is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 11-01-2014, 04:49 PM   #30
Senior Member
 
Murf2u's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Near Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,842
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1mainiac View Post
Every RV dealership I have been at in the last 12 years has had plenty of work in the spring from people that only blow out their system. Many have told me they have done it for years with no problems until this time. This year we had a high end coach that froze and broke with the Aqua Hot ruined and most of the plumbing as well. That repair bill was well over 10 grand. We will change a couple dozen broken water pumps each year and several rolls of new Pex tubing will be spliced in this keeps many shops busy every spring. The fact is you can't blow the water out of very many units anymore there is just too many spots that will hold water and break. If this coming winter is anything like last winter we will once again see way too many units froze and broke. Learn to do a good rinse and sanitize in the spring and use the pink stuff. For those who want a fast easy system the new Jayco's are super easy to winterize and dewinterize.

I've met lots of people who could break an anvil with a rubber hammer.

IMHO blowing water lines clear is no different than anything else, if you don't have the right equipment it's not going to end well. A neighbour tried towing a 5,500 pound boat with his SUV, salesman told him it was good for 7,000 pounds.

It cost him $8k in repairs the first summer.

In order to properly blow the lines clear you need a compressor that will maintain 50+ psi indefinitely with a line open. If it can't, you won't get all the water out. Period.

Just because some people do things poorly and / or incorrectly doesn't mean it's wrong or risky for everyone.
__________________

__________________
Ted 'n' Laurie, plus Jackson (aka Deputy Dog, the Parson Russell Terrier 'fur kid') and, Rylie (who crossed the Rainbow Bridge June 14, 2012).
Murf2u is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2014, 07:38 PM   #31
Senior Member
 
Ray,IN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 13,712
I've always heard, don't knock it until you've tried it; well, today I did. I used my small (6G) air compressor set at 45psi, to blow out all the water line in the MH except the ice-maker. I first drained all water lines and fresh water tank. Then closed all water drains and faucets, hooked up the compressor to the city water inlet, and allowed it to pressurize the system to 45psi. Then I opened drain valves and got about a quart of water from them and closed them. Opened the faucets and got about a cup from each. Same for the commode.
I filled the automatic, onboard winterizing anti-freeze tank, pushed the electric valve controls to winterize the system with anti-freeze. I then proceeded to open one faucet at a time, got about a cup of clear water from each one.
Now I know for sure, blowing the water lines out with compressed air does NOT remove all the water.
I wasn't going to winterize since we will use the coach in Nov., but tonight's low is predicted to be 23*F., and our MH is parked outside at Camping World awaiting black tank valve replacement.
There is one benefit though; I used less RV anti-freeze this time.
__________________
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA 1SG, retired;PPA,Good Sam Life member,FMCA."We the people are the rightful masters of both the Congress and the Courts - not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow men who pervert the Constitution. "Abraham Lincoln"
Ray,IN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2014, 09:01 PM   #32
IC2
Senior Member
 
IC2's Avatar


 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 1,886
Last year for the first time since 1976 I had a failure - a valve I added to bypass the HW heater after the supplied check valve failed. It wasn't expensive nor particularly messy and last winter was pretty mild in comparison to the previous several that we had owned that 5er. It was just a PITA to change. This year and with a brand new 5er, decided that I would be doubly (triply?) safe. Since the trailer was at the dealership 120 miles away for a couple of warranty issues, I opened the gravity drains while I towed it home on Thursday. Then yesterday I blew the system out and was, quite frankly, surprised as to how much water I blew out. Then, since this unit has a separate winterizing tap that feeds directly to the water pump and throughout the entire system, used about a gallon and a half of the 'pink stuff' including several ounces to each drain trap. Since it was my first time with this 5er, it did take a bit longer then anticipated, probably an hour and a half rather then the 30-45 minutes the last one took. The total cost was antifreeze, 1.5 gallons at $2.98 per (plus a new reusable quick disconnect fitting). To me, that $$4.50 worth of antifreeze is dirt cheap and less then a gallon and a half of dieesel fuel which will only take me ~20 miles while hauling the trailer. The HW heater - drain it and don't worry about a few ounces of water left in the tank. As long as it has expansion room when that water freezes, you wont have any damage.

Oh and that washer (if you have one), make sure it's well drained. Also if there is a SeaLand toilet in your RV, that vacuum breaker and bowl sprayer need to be winterized too.

So, my answer to the OP, why take a chance for a very few bucks worth of antifreeze. The time, cost and inconvenience for repairs is not worth the pain.
__________________
Dave W along with my DW, Susan and our poodlepups, Callie & Molly,2011 Ford F250 6.7 CCLB, 5er Hitch Option w/B&W Hitch,,Ride Rite air bags, 2014 Montana High Country 343RL (38')
IC2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2014, 07:03 AM   #33
Senior Member
 
Murf2u's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Near Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,842
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray,IN View Post
I've always heard, don't knock it until you've tried it; well, today I did. I used my small (6G) air compressor set at 45psi, to blow out all the water line in the MH except the ice-maker.


Now I know for sure, blowing the water lines out with compressed air does NOT remove all the water.


That's why I made the statement "In order to properly blow the lines clear you need a compressor that will maintain 50+ psi indefinitely with a line open. If it can't, you won't get all the water out. Period."

Winterizing with air is all about the VOLUME of air run through the lines. Blowing the lines for just a minute, or with too small a compressor like yours is just a recipe for disaster.

A few years back my father took his 40' Class A into the Stealership for some work late in the fall, they asked if he wanted it winterized while it was there. He declined saying it had been blown clear already. The SA nearly had kittens when he heard that. After a long 'discussion' the SA offered my father a 'deal' of sorts. They would pump pink through his coach in front of him with a container under each tap. If there was water ahead of the pink he'd pay 1/2 price for the winterizing. If there was none, winterizing AND cleaning it all back out and sanitizing was on the house.

There was not a drop of anything that came out of any tap or fixture except pink.

He could still taste the pink for months after they flushed it out.
__________________
Ted 'n' Laurie, plus Jackson (aka Deputy Dog, the Parson Russell Terrier 'fur kid') and, Rylie (who crossed the Rainbow Bridge June 14, 2012).
Murf2u is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2014, 07:53 AM   #34
Senior Member
 
spritz's Avatar


 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: c above
Posts: 4,954
I use my compressor and blow the system out until I see a fine mist (like my irrigation system) and continue a few minutes longer. I then add 5 gallons of the pink stuff and open each valve until the pink runs out. then shut them off. same with the WH, then a cup in each drain.
4 years and no problems yet.
I reverse in the spring then flush with water a couple times.
Tim
__________________
1982 Pace Arrow 30ft.
KarKaddy SS, Toad: 1999 Deville Concours
Lilly and Rubie Our 4 legged Kids & Tim & Joe
spritz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2014, 08:06 AM   #35
Senior Member
 
Firebug5's Avatar
 
National RV Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Retired Fire Service RVer's
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Salida, Colorado
Posts: 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by spritz View Post
I use my compressor and blow the system out until I see a fine mist (like my irrigation system) and continue a few minutes longer. I then add 5 gallons of the pink stuff and open each valve until the pink runs out. then shut them off. same with the WH, then a cup in each drain.
4 years and no problems yet.
I reverse in the spring then flush with water a couple times.
Tim
Good morning, Tim.

I used to follow your procedure exactly, until a friend asked why I was duplicating the process. Most folks use one over the other, and since I like keeping everything lubed all year, I just dropped the air compressor procedure. The process of pumping the antifreeze thru the lines pushes the water out, so am I missing something, what is your reason for doing both?

Thanks in advance for any advice, never too late for me to learn something!

Bruce
__________________
Bruce & Judy, living the dream in Salida, CO!
2005 Nat'l Dolphin W22 Chassis, 2004 Jeep Liberty
"Let's Roll 'em, Let's Roll 'em!"
Firebug5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2014, 08:34 AM   #36
Senior Member
 
Damon Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Annapolis,MD
Posts: 1,196
Used pink for thirty years in my boats, and now my RV.
It is a foolproof method of winterizing, with no downside.
With the complicated plumbing, and sloppy quality
control in camping equipment of today, it is my
opinion that it is the best option.
__________________
macandphyl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2014, 09:13 PM   #37
Senior Member
 
Ray,IN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 13,712
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevieG View Post
The little bit of water that is left at the bottom will freeze, however there is nothing constricting it and therefore will not cause any damage to the HWH.

They sell a tube with a hose fitting on one end that you use to flush the HWH out in the fall and spring. I assume you can modify it to vacuum as well, but honestly I wouldn't bother.
Yes, I know. I was just curious how they made something small enough to fit into the 3/4 pipe thread opening and move around, that would not stop up with calcium deposits. They never replied. It would be the only way to get the scale out though.
__________________
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA 1SG, retired;PPA,Good Sam Life member,FMCA."We the people are the rightful masters of both the Congress and the Courts - not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow men who pervert the Constitution. "Abraham Lincoln"
Ray,IN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2014, 09:16 PM   #38
Senior Member
 
Ray,IN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 13,712
Quote:
Originally Posted by Firebug5 View Post
Good morning, Tim.

I used to follow your procedure exactly, until a friend asked why I was duplicating the process. Most folks use one over the other, and since I like keeping everything lubed all year, I just dropped the air compressor procedure. The process of pumping the antifreeze thru the lines pushes the water out, so am I missing something, what is your reason for doing both?

Thanks in advance for any advice, never too late for me to learn something!

Bruce
I'm not Tim, but using air does reduce the amount of RV anti-freeze I need to fill everything this time. (See my post above)
__________________
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA 1SG, retired;PPA,Good Sam Life member,FMCA."We the people are the rightful masters of both the Congress and the Courts - not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow men who pervert the Constitution. "Abraham Lincoln"
Ray,IN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2014, 07:04 AM   #39
Senior Member
 
Murf2u's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Near Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,842
Quote:
Originally Posted by macandphyl View Post
Used pink for thirty years in my boats, and now my RV.
It is a foolproof method of winterizing, with no downside.
With the complicated plumbing, and sloppy quality
control in camping equipment of today, it is my
opinion that it is the best option.

Unless you're someone like me who uses their Motorhome 4 - 6 times per winter.

There's no practical way to flush all that pink out when you're several hundred miles from home, or at home but it's a long way below the freezing point.

By blowing the lines clear I don't have to do anything but add water when I want or can. No wasted hours flushing and no skating rinks pouring water all over the ground or filling holding tanks that will then freeze up.

As was mentioned above, irrigation systems are never winterized with anything but air, that's always been the way. No issues unless someone screwed up the process, same with RV's.
__________________
Ted 'n' Laurie, plus Jackson (aka Deputy Dog, the Parson Russell Terrier 'fur kid') and, Rylie (who crossed the Rainbow Bridge June 14, 2012).
Murf2u is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2014, 11:32 AM   #40
Senior Member
 
StevieG's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Milton, NY
Posts: 915
One very important aspect when winterizing with the pink stuff is making sure that the water in your motorhome is completely drained. I know that is a DUH comment, but the first time I winterized this motorhome, I thought after leaving the valve open for hours that my freshwater tank was completely drained. Just to see if it made a difference, I raised my front jacks past level and about 2 more gallons of water came out of the FW drain. It was not enough to move the tank monitor past empty, but was enough to dilute and endanger the effectiveness of the pink stuff.

Since I don't blow only, I'm not sure if that is an issue with the "air only" method as well. All I can say is in following the operator's manual for my Fleetwood, they clearly recommend adding 5 gallons of pink stuff to the freshwater tank (after being drained) and run it throughout the system. Not in the manual, but based on watching numberous videos, I then open all the faucets to allow for expansion.
__________________
Steve & Beth - Milton, New York
2006 Monaco Knight 38 PDQ
Ready Brute Elite-2016 Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4x4
StevieG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2014, 11:49 AM   #41
Registered User
 
mel s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 8,777
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevieG View Post
One very important aspect when winterizing with the pink stuff is making sure that the water in your motorhome is completely drained. I know that is a DUH comment, but the first time I winterized this motorhome, I thought after leaving the valve open for hours that my freshwater tank was completely drained. Just to see if it made a difference, I raised my front jacks past level and about 2 more gallons of water came out of the FW drain. It was not enough to move the tank monitor past empty, but was enough to dilute and endanger the effectiveness of the pink stuff.

Since I don't blow only, I'm not sure if that is an issue with the "air only" method as well. All I can say is in following the operator's manual for my Fleetwood, they clearly recommend adding 5 gallons of pink stuff to the freshwater tank (after being drained) and run it throughout the system. Not in the manual, but based on watching numberous videos, I then open all the faucets to allow for expansion.
StevieG
Based on my personal experience I can tell you that 2 gallons, (or more), of water left in a fresh water tank and allowed to freeze will not hurt anything, (even in sustained sub zero temps).
However, letting a FULL tank freeze solid is a different story.
Mel
'96 Safari
__________________
mel s is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2014, 11:51 AM   #42
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1mainiac View Post
Every RV dealership I have been at in the last 12 years has had plenty of work in the spring from people that only blow out their system. Many have told me they have done it for years with no problems until this time. This year we had a high end coach that froze and broke with the Aqua Hot ruined and most of the plumbing as well. That repair bill was well over 10 grand. We will change a couple dozen broken water pumps each year and several rolls of new Pex tubing will be spliced in this keeps many shops busy every spring. The fact is you can't blow the water out of very many units anymore there is just too many spots that will hold water and break. If this coming winter is anything like last winter we will once again see way too many units froze and broke. Learn to do a good rinse and sanitize in the spring and use the pink stuff. For those who want a fast easy system the new Jayco's are super easy to winterize and dewinterize.
Either way done correctly works well. Either way NOT done properly will cause problems. Why would manufacturers recommend either way if both didn't work? Why do many RV dealers blow out the lines instead of using anti-freeze if it would cause a problem?

I blow out my lines, recommended by the manufacturer, and never have had a problem. Of course it only gets down to -30 F in Wyoming.
__________________

__________________
wyorancher is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Panasonic issue of blue and red changing to pink and green ILoveMyRV Tiffin Motorhomes Owners Forum 6 12-16-2014 04:14 PM
My Brother's Family Flocked By Pink Flamingos Lincolnboy2 Texas Boomers 4 06-06-2014 11:37 AM
Dicor turned pink? Pilgrimfarms Class A Motorhome Discussions 9 01-15-2014 04:00 PM
Antifreeze or air pressure Rolfsted 5th Wheel Discussion 27 10-23-2013 10:33 PM
The Real Pink Chicken allendp Texas Boomers 6 09-26-2013 04:40 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:35 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.