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Old 09-04-2016, 10:42 PM   #1
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Transfer switch problem on an old bounder

I am trying to fix an old Bounder (1986)? The transfer switch looks like it has been replaced. I found today the time delay switch is bad and i bypassed it. There is a switch that says front , rear and off. And an EIC power sensing relay. Here is the wierd thing i found. Using a clamp on ampmeter, i fiend the front AC power is fed from the gen set through the transfer switch, through the main and AC circuit breaker with 10 amps going to the front Ac unit. The rear AC unit causes no amp draw on any wire in the power panel section. Did bounder ever wire the rear AC unit directly off the gen set?? That drum switch that says front and rear, where does its power come from? I have not tried to run anything off of shore power. Only have a cheap extension cord and 15 amp service.
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Old 09-04-2016, 10:54 PM   #2
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IDK about your motor home but I did see a 5th wheel trailer that had 2 separate 30A cords and one a/c unit on each circut. It could be that they had it set to run rear on gen and front on shore. I would recommend switching entire system to a 50A 240V system.
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Old 09-05-2016, 02:36 AM   #3
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The 30 amp service could not run both AC units so they put a switch in to choose which one you wanted.

The generator could run both. The generator has 2 outputs, the 30 amp breaker is tied to your transfer switch and runs all of the 30 amp service items, including 1 AC.

The second output runs the second AC only, from the 20 amp breaker on the generator.

Many owners have either added a second transfer switch and 20 amp cord to plug in or rewired it to 50 amp service, which is effectively 2, 120 volt 50 amp lines.

In doing the 50 amp conversion, you need to be carefull that the inputs stay separate, otherwise you could feed some things with 240 volts.
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Old 09-05-2016, 09:56 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbeek View Post
I am trying to fix an old Bounder (1986)? The transfer switch looks like it has been replaced. I found today the time delay switch is bad and i bypassed it. There is a switch that says front , rear and off. And an EIC power sensing relay. Here is the wierd thing i found. Using a clamp on ampmeter, i fiend the front AC power is fed from the gen set through the transfer switch, through the main and AC circuit breaker with 10 amps going to the front Ac unit. The rear AC unit causes no amp draw on any wire in the power panel section. Did bounder ever wire the rear AC unit directly off the gen set?? That drum switch that says front and rear, where does its power come from? I have not tried to run anything off of shore power. Only have a cheap extension cord and 15 amp service.
Could you please tell us exactly "what problem" you are trying to fix?

Here is how that system was designed to work.

On shore power, either air conditioner will receive power from the panel, through the switch, depending on how it is set. From the switch, power to the front air conditioner passes through the normally closed contacts of that transfer switch. Since the 30amps can only reliably support one at a time, the switch is there to select which one is allowed to receive power and run.

When on generator, that transfer switch is activated, by the generator 20amp output, and that generator power is fed directly to the front air conditioner. The switch must be set correctly "rear" to then run the rear air conditioner from the main panel which is being fed by the 30amp generator output.

The time delay is set at ~30 seconds to allow the generator to come up to full power/speed before transferring the relay, as it may be already under load.

The main power transfer switch is located on the back side of the main power panel.
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Old 09-05-2016, 05:18 PM   #5
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What i was trying to fix was why the AC would not work. Found time delay was not working. Finding all the input wires spliced i thought i had better go slow and start with the basics. A schematic would have answered all my questions. In basic house wiring if a circuit is hot and does not go through the breaker panel you had better be careful. BUT, it is all answered now. What was i trying to fix?? Ha Ha A onan that has not run in 6 years. A water system that was once frozen. I was warned, It has a little water leak. Oh well it was free and what mechanic doesn't like a challenge. Thanks for the help guys!
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Old 09-05-2016, 11:15 PM   #6
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That year of rv means you have polybutalyne plumbing for your system. That crap was recalled by federal government and manufacturers of mobile homes were supposed to replace it. However, feds forgot about rvs. I replaced all of mine with cpvc. Higher burst pressure and higher temp range than pex which is what they now use in most new rvs. And I recommend using some sharkbite fittings in key locations to make future repairs easier if nessessary. And I still say change out the 30A to 50A service.
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Old 09-06-2016, 02:53 PM   #7
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That year of rv means you have polybutalyne plumbing for your system. That crap was recalled by federal government and manufacturers of mobile homes were supposed to replace it. However, feds forgot about rvs. I replaced all of mine with cpvc. Higher burst pressure and higher temp range than pex which is what they now use in most new rvs. And I recommend using some sharkbite fittings in key locations to make future repairs easier if nessessary. And I still say change out the 30A to 50A service.
Let's be realistic here.

First, this is an older 1986 Bounder that does NOT have a hint of a plumbing problem. How would the OP ever begin to justify replacing the plumbing?

Second, (same question, same answer) How could one possibly justify the cost and effort to convert a 1986 motor home from 30 to 50 amp service, just because one air conditioner wasn't working?

50 amp service offers many well documented advantages over 30 amps, but it is not the be-all-end-all answer to every RV power situation. The '86 Bounder functioned quite nicely on 30 amps.
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Old 09-06-2016, 03:24 PM   #8
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A couple points to consider. If that transfer switch has been operated under load frequently (like with AC running for instance) while being switched shore power to gen, or gen to shore like they frequently are, the contact points within the switch often take a terrible beating often resulting in failure. You need to follow the power through the switch to troubleshoot.

Second, that front/rear switch. The ones I'm familiar with were front/both/rear. There was no "off". The only time it would run both was on gen. with the second leg of the gen set powered up.

Last, I'm from the same school Old Bounder went to. Get what you've got now working right prior to doing anything else "creative".
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Old 09-06-2016, 11:46 PM   #9
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To oldbounder, if you had noticed,he stated that his had water leak and had had frozen plumbing. That's why I commented about changing out polybutalene to new. And while you may not have had problems with yours, the recall was for more than faulty construction. There were serious health risks too. As for power panel change-up to 50A, if his generator is out of commission and he only has shore power to work with,he mite as well change it out now so that he can see what all else is wrong with electrical. I'm not knocking the older set ups because I prefer them to the new all electronic stuff that takes special equipment to diagnose and fix. That's why I live in an '87 PA Y27.
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Old 09-06-2016, 11:49 PM   #10
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To ahicks, see my response to old bounder.
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Old 09-07-2016, 10:40 PM   #11
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To oldbounder, if you had noticed,he stated that his had water leak and had had frozen plumbing. That's why I commented about changing out polybutalene to new. And while you may not have had problems with yours, the recall was for more than faulty construction. There were serious health risks too. As for power panel change-up to 50A, if his generator is out of commission and he only has shore power to work with,he mite as well change it out now so that he can see what all else is wrong with electrical. I'm not knocking the older set ups because I prefer them to the new all electronic stuff that takes special equipment to diagnose and fix. That's why I live in an '87 PA Y27.
Like I said "Let's be realistic".

I'm not sure what all you propose "changing out" or "what all else is (might be) wrong with electrical", but to convert that old Bounder from 30amp to 50amp, and do it RIGHT, with upgraded internal wire sizes, power cord, and power distribution panels, you could spend far more money than that "FREE" coach was worth.

The same logic applies to the plumbing, in my opinion. YMMV
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Old 09-07-2016, 11:04 PM   #12
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To old Bounder, you may be right. A lot of it depends on how long he intends to keep it and how much he plans to use it. I guess you could say that my advice was for long term ownership. If he wasn't interested in that, then maybe he ought to try and find someone who really would want it for long term or parts. Then he could get one that isn't a challenge. But in my reading, unless I'm misstaken, he stated he likes a challenge. Just my honest opinion based on his postings.
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