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Old 10-04-2015, 06:03 PM   #15
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Kahoona, if feel your pain. Lucky for me my Trimark POS failed while parked in my driveway. OUTLAW Mods and Easy Fixes - Page 71 - iRV2 Forums

Okie, that's the problem, when this bolt fails, you can kick on that door forever, and you will not get it open. Trimark really should step up and correct this, and provide compensation for replacement. What happens when this lock fails during an emergency like a fire? Could be really tragic.
Yes. That is exactly where both of mine broke. Good luck with that replacement because the second one that broke was the replacement from Trimark. I thought the same thing. How many people could have been in a life threatening situation and not been able to get out. I would barely fit out of out emergency exit window. I have removed it and checked the mechanism. I also have crawled out of the side windows (thanks to trimark) but many may not know.
In the end Trimark will go on without a care because it is the coach manufactures who buy on price, not function, that make the decision. They big....we small...
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Old 10-05-2015, 05:45 PM   #16
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I bought the Bauer EM and plan to install it tomorrow. Can anybody tell me if the bolt is steel? After looking at it I am wondering. I'll try to get a good close picture of it tomorrow. If the bolt in these breaks we are still locked in/out just like the trimark.
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Old 10-05-2015, 06:21 PM   #17
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The feeling is not unknown

Take the broken pieces (or better yet a brand new bolt) to a metal smith and have him carve you one out of something like STEEL instead of that )(@Q*#$R Tri-mark uses... Iv'e done this with several basement latches and let me tell you it works much beter that way.
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Old 10-05-2015, 07:18 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Kahoona View Post
I bought the Bauer EM and plan to install it tomorrow. Can anybody tell me if the bolt is steel? After looking at it I am wondering. I'll try to get a good close picture of it tomorrow. If the bolt in these breaks we are still locked in/out just like the trimark.
I don't know if the latch-bolt and deadbolt on the Bauer EM are made of steel...but it appears to be a casting (not billet).

What I do know is that the bolt does not have the thin section that is within the lock -OR- the plastic actuator lever that are the 2 known failure points used in the Tri-Mark.

The handle and bolt have metal to metal contact.
Click image for larger version

Name:	EM_Graphic_edit.jpg
Views:	114
Size:	153.2 KB
ID:	108880

The deadbolt on our install has no incurrence of friction on opening or closing unless we mistakenly try to open the door while locked, so that piece will receive very little wear and tear on the internal workings.

Best luck
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Old 10-06-2015, 09:20 AM   #19
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I don't know if the latch-bolt and deadbolt on the Bauer EM are made of steel...but it appears to be a casting (not billet).

What I do know is that the bolt does not have the thin section that is within the lock -OR- the plastic actuator lever that are the 2 known failure points used in the Tri-Mark.

The handle and bolt have metal to metal contact.
Attachment 108880

The deadbolt on our install has no incurrence of friction on opening or closing unless we mistakenly try to open the door while locked, so that piece will receive very little wear and tear on the internal workings.

Best luck
Thanks for letting me know that. As you way, the thin section is the Achilles heel of the Trimark and the place where both of mine failed. The lack of friction should make it easier to close it too. Having to slam it must be a contributing factor in the failure. I have to say that it tees me off that Trimark would make a pot metal latch with a thin spot in a critical area and requires slamming to close (unless you have both hands free to work the latch when closing it. They had to know. Oh well. My new latch is going in today and I will be happy to have it working. Thanks so much for all of the support. The DW will be pleased to have it working properly also. Of course we have to agree on a 4 number sequence. It isn't even in yet and we have already realized that our minds work so differently that this will be difficult! She knows all of the birthrates in the world and I can form number series based on patterns and recall them. There is no in between!
Rob.
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Old 10-06-2015, 11:06 AM   #20
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One highpoint...

Be very careful on install to NOT pinch or break the wire connecting the keypad (exterior) to the lock body (interior).

It is a hair thin wire set that can be crushed. And if you drop the exterior before getting a screw in, the wire can be parted.

Best luck on the install.
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Old 10-08-2015, 07:02 AM   #21
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One highpoint...

Be very careful on install to NOT pinch or break the wire connecting the keypad (exterior) to the lock body (interior).

It is a hair thin wire set that can be crushed. And if you drop the exterior before getting a screw in, the wire can be parted.

Best luck on the install.
Good advice! I will take care. Thanks
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Old 10-08-2015, 07:57 PM   #22
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Since you seem to be buying these things quite often; what's the chance you could disassemble the lock and take the broken part to a machine shop. Have them duplicate the broken part in either brass or stainless steel. Probably cheaper than a new lock.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
The feeling is not unknown

Take the broken pieces (or better yet a brand new bolt) to a metal smith and have him carve you one out of something like STEEL instead of that )(@Q*#$R Tri-mark uses... Iv'e done this with several basement latches and let me tell you it works much beter that way.
Just took a lock apart to get the latch. There is no way to put it back together. Having a better latch made is not going to work. Too many parts pressed together.
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Old 10-09-2015, 10:04 AM   #23
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Just took a lock apart to get the latch. There is no way to put it back together. Having a better latch made is not going to work. Too many parts pressed together.
I would not bother with having a new one made myself. I don't like the way that the latch/lock/handle works anyway and this is a chance to hopefully get away from it. I don't know how well this latch works for others but I do not like the way that you either need to use 2 hands to open the latch,close the door then release the latch or just slam the door hard to get the latch to work. The latch is not easy to open either and often guests can't get it open till I tell them to yank hard. I also found that keys that are not the correct one can open my door with a bit of persistent jiggling.
I am hoping that the Bauer is a better latch/lock. I haven't been able to put it in yet because of life's persistent emergencies and a long honeydo list but it is on my list today, right after fixing the screens on the porch. I will review it once it is in.

PS
I wrote to Bauer asking if the bolt is steel or cast Zinc. I did get a reply. They seemed nice though they misunderstood the question. I replied with my question reworded. I'll let you know the answer. It is important to note that they did tell me that if I had this sort of problems with the Bauer EM a replacement unit would be shipped even if out of the warranty. That is a good sign!
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Old 10-09-2015, 05:44 PM   #24
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Just ordered that Bauer 13531. Hope it holds up since it is twice the price. I need two of them too!
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Old 10-10-2015, 07:33 AM   #25
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st got reply from Bauer "The plunger and dead bolt are made of Zamac No. 5 which is a high strength die cast." Zamac is a Zinc alloy I believe. I am disappointed but I am hoping that the design of the plunger (bolt) is better in this unit as was indicated earlier. I am going to use it anyway.
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Old 10-14-2015, 02:57 PM   #26
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I have achieved a temporary installation and have managed to get the lock functioning well. The Bauer EM lock and latch seems to work very well. I believe that it will hold up because it closes more easily without the need for a hard slam like the old Trimark did. The electronic deadbolt works well. The main latch is much easier to open. I am quite pleased with the product.

There are problems with the installation which are due to the fit in the door of the 2002 Coachmen Mirada though. Your installation may not be exactly "direct replacement" Either. I will post pic's when I have a chance to tackle a proper install but here are the high points.
The latch side of the door pocket has an aluminum frame spacer that needs to be cut and notched to make room for a difference in the casting of the new locks case.
Once it is installed the prongs that come out of the new unit will not fit into the slots in the receiving latch plate but will instead hit the door frame. Even if the 2 screws holding the lock to the door edge are loosened and the lock slid as far back as possible they still hit the frame. The pocket is not wide enough. I used a bar and a hammer to adjust the frame edge to allow the prongs pass through.
Bauer is sending me spacers to increase the clearance. I will eventually need to deepen the door pocket to increase the distance between the door edge and the new assembly. This will leave a gap in the door pocket in the front so I will need to make a plate to cover it. It should be just fine then.
Once again- This is not the fault of the Bauer but of the design of the door. Bauer never promised a drop in replacement. They are very pleasant to talk to also.
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Old 10-14-2015, 05:12 PM   #27
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Sorry for the issues. Our Bauer EM was totally a drop-in.

Glad Bauer is helping.

Best luck
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Old 10-15-2015, 07:41 AM   #28
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Sorry for the issues. Our Bauer EM was totally a drop-in.

Glad Bauer is helping.

Best luck
Not your fault! This is a better lockset than the Trimark hands down. I love the way it closes with a light push rather than a hard slam. I also am already hookes on the combination entry. Now I am much more likely to lock it when it is in my driveway since I don't carry a key normally. This is an interesting opportunity to work with the door pocket and learn something new. There are many such opportunities with this RV .
For those who may have a problem with getting the correct spacing I suggest using some bits of vinyl siding cut to fit. This is tough material that can be had for free and it cuts with tinsnips or a utility knife.
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