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Old 10-28-2015, 08:40 AM   #43
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i am not trying to stand up for this lock but it went in easy enough with a striker plate change and no other issues. it seems to be solid in our unit.
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Old 10-28-2015, 10:22 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by Scarab0088 View Post

I guess it could be good enough at only $90, but TriMark wasn't getting my money and unless it can be disassembled to check for other failure points - which it can't because of the pressed-on parts - not worth the risk...IMHO.

Safe travels
+ That! More people have to think like this before this stuff stops happening. If people checked before buying or didn't buy a second one Trimark would improve. Think of what would happen if a number of people looked at new coaches and told the dealers "lets look at a different line. I see 16 Trimark latches that will be a problem on this one" or simply I'll take it but only if you swap out those Trimark latches on the doors and the hatches." It would cause a change. That is why I paid double for the Bauer, and it is a nice latch too.
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Old 10-28-2015, 11:07 AM   #45
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You guys keep talking about #1650 but the Trimark replacement "Motorhome Door Lock Kit" that I got only says "T507" Motorhome Door Lock with Deadbolt.
It was fairly easy to install once we got the prison door open. We swapped the striker bolts instead of changing the striker plate. Johnny Walker RV in Vegas charged me $143 for this. Is this T507 something different than the 1650?
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Old 10-28-2015, 11:23 AM   #46
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Quote:
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You guys keep talking about #1650 but the Trimark replacement "Motorhome Door Lock Kit" that I got only says "T507" Motorhome Door Lock with Deadbolt.
It was fairly easy to install once we got the prison door open. We swapped the striker bolts instead of changing the striker plate. Johnny Walker RV in Vegas charged me $143 for this. Is this T507 something different than the 1650?
It's the same lock...
The T507 ID seems to come from the reseller "RV Designer"
TriMark by RV Designer

TriMark makes and sells this latch/lock as the 060-1650 and has no T507 model listed on their product list.

Safe travels
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Old 10-28-2015, 06:03 PM   #47
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Thanks Steve, I thought maybe I got lucky with a newer and maybe better version but it sounds like I got the same $143 POS
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Old 10-28-2015, 07:40 PM   #48
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Thanks Steve, I thought maybe I got lucky with a newer and maybe better version but it sounds like I got the same $143 POS
Here's hope that the 1650 (T507) is not a POS and is at least better than the 650

I just feel that TriMark should have been more responsible and made a public notice of the risk of failure (or maybe even conducted a recall) or at the least maybe discounted replacement pricing(?).

Can anyone imagine if there was a fire in a RV and an elderly couple couldn't get out because the latch bolt broke

This photo shows the 2 weak points on the 60-650 - latch bolt and plastic actuator:

Name:   Trimark 60-650 bolt.jpg
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Photo credit to:
Locked Out, Broken Lock - Type A motorhomes - FMCA Motorhome Forums

Safe travels
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Old 10-31-2015, 10:30 PM   #49
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I sent an E Mail to Trimark to let them know the situation their cheap pot luck metal got me in to. I also told them that 90 % of class As only have one door and asked them if they had any idea how dangerous of a ticking time bomb they are selling?
So far all I've heqard from them was an automated reply which told me thanks for contacting them and they would get back to me soon.

I wonder when or if a human reads it if they will take it serious or just laugh.

Actually the plastic part did not break on mine, my pot metal latch or whatever it's called that hold the door shut, that the plastic doo hickey pulls back broke on mine

Its hard to tell in your picture but but the bottom pieces in your pic looks like what broke on mine

Between getting locked in or out and getting my 8.1 Ltr engine changed thru the drivers door, "if" I ever buy another CL A , I guess I have to have 2 doors.
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Old 10-31-2015, 10:57 PM   #50
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Steve, do you know that battery operated lock is really better or are you just hoping it is?
Batter operated sounds a little spooky to me. I'm not sticking up for the Trimark because I've never had a car, truck or even a stick & brick lock, lock me in before , in 66 years, but my 2 nd Trimark ddid last 10 years but only 45,000 miles so not a whole lot of use.
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Old 11-01-2015, 11:20 AM   #51
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Steve, do you know that battery operated lock is really better or are you just hoping it is?
Batter operated sounds a little spooky to me...
Will just point out the differences...you decide better or not..

The Bauer EM has no plastic pieces inside the lock.
The TriMark 650 uses a plastic star for opening with the outside lever (was a weak/wear point that jammed on ours).

The Bauer EM has a straight piece (not tapered) latchbolt.
The TriMark 650 has the tapered latchbolt that seems to be the main failure point.

The Bauer EM has a 2 sided high security key for manually operating the deadbolt (can be inserted either side up)
The TriMark 650 uses short, one-sided keys, that are different for each lock (on ours, when worn, the keys could be accedentally inserted upside down, jamming the tumbler).

The Bauer EM has only a locking deadbolt. Main latchbolt does not lock.
The TriMark 650 has separate locks on both bolts. The latchbolt is reportedly keyed to 1 of 2 masters held by dealers and some campground mgrs (and maybe bad guys).

The Bauer EM uses a sealed programmable touch sensitive keypad to operate the deadbolt...can be opened by high security 2 sided key too. Batteries last 6 months for our level of use.
The TriMark 650 is manual.


My experience with the new(ish) TriMark 1650 (T507) is that it is on many-many new RV's and operates exactly like the 650 (2 keys, of which 1 can be opened by a dealer's master). I hope the 1650 is a better lock than the 650, but have no specifics about that.

Safe travels
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Old 11-01-2015, 12:28 PM   #52
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I sent an E Mail to Trimark to let them know the situation their cheap pot luck metal got me in to. I also told them that 90 % of class As only have one door and asked them if they had any idea how dangerous of a ticking time bomb they are selling?
So far all I've heqard from them was an automated reply which told me thanks for contacting them and they would get back to me soon.

I wonder when or if a human reads it if they will take it serious or just laugh.

Actually the plastic part did not break on mine, my pot metal latch or whatever it's called that hold the door shut, that the plastic doo hickey pulls back broke on mine

Its hard to tell in your picture but but the bottom pieces in your pic looks like what broke on mine
Yes. Same here. Both times it was the actual pot metal latch bolt. Right at the thinnest part. I think that part of the problem is that the door has to be slammed because of a poorly designed mechanism. This weakens the already thin latch. The bauer is better designed and closes much more easily. It also does not have the thin spot.

The electronics are always an area of concern, just like cameras, they are a weak point. This goes double when using thr RV as a surf chaser because of the salt air. If the electronics fail or the batteries wear out this can be opened with a key which is zio tied somewhere so I can get in. It can also be opened from the inside with the knob. Lesser of the 2 evils I think.

I am glad that you emailed them. Thing is that this is a corporate policy matter. When the decision was made to use the inferior bolt it was made knowing that there would be "X" percentage of failures per thousand but that they would be out of warranty and that since most sales went to manufactures who would not be damaged by the defect it would not hurt sales.
The complaints are generally outsourced to companies who briefly glance at them and assign them a number indicating approximate reason. A digest is sent to the company periodically.
As people corporations are sociopaths. Short of a class action there is nothing to do.
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Old 11-03-2015, 08:55 AM   #53
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In hindsight, If had known this about the Bauer Lock,and that it would fit, and the dealer had one in stock, I would have bought it but that's alot of ifs.
After spending $143 for it, it's hard to want to spend another $200 or $250 for the bauer.
I guess I'll try to be more gentle and baby the new Trimark.
I wonder if the deadbolt has a weak point to break if I could figure a way to keep the latch part that breaks in the release position. That would be a hassle though having touse your key on the outside just to keep the door closed.
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Old 11-03-2015, 02:20 PM   #54
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you might want to look at the striker part of the lock and make sure its not hitting the plate in the door jam any more then 25% or less, and keep it lubed. you might have to take one of the plates out to make it less of a hit. i think that could help, just an opinion
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Old 11-06-2015, 10:49 AM   #55
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you might want to look at the striker part of the lock and make sure its not hitting the plate in the door jam any more then 25% or less, and keep it lubed. you might have to take one of the plates out to make it less of a hit. i think that could help, just an opinion
I think you might have an idea here! #1 - I noticed that when a friend of mine closed our old Trimark he pulled the latch before closing it and then released it when closed. This is often awkward a when carrying things and requires conscious thought until ingrained but would prolong the bolt life.
#2 - Instead of or in addition to the striker plate alteration you can make a spacer or two to fit inside the door between the lock and the door edge. I have a picture of the ones Bauer sent me to fit theirs which you can see if you scroll back through the earlier posts. This would help if your strike plates are not easy to access.
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Old 11-07-2015, 04:58 AM   #56
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i also think that if the latch has less contact area, that if it did break, you might be able to move the door and or the jam to get it open.
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