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Old 09-26-2015, 05:35 PM   #1
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Talking Trimark 060-0650 door latch. New question and story.

Hi
I am in the position of buying yet another door lock set because the %^&!!# Trimark 060-0650 latch bolt breaks off suddenly. It isn't so much the $80 or the fact that I have to use the same POS again. It is the getting locked in or out of the MH in the darnedest of situations!
Here is the offender






My question is this. Now that Trimark has admitted that the latch in unsuitable for use they recommend using the 1650 in all new construction. Will that unit with it's curved forward end fit in the hole for my nasty old 0650? It looks like they still use the zinc alloy bolt so it is not better but when I can no longer get the old one I will need something. No I don't want to use a padlock.

Here is the story. The DW and I are driving across South FL on our way from North Palm to Sanabel Island in search of Doc Ford references and a trip through the Ding Darling Wildlife refuge. We decide to stop for groceries. The door won't open. The only door! I try everything. Those screws are star headed. Being new to RV's I don't have them. I finally decide to bail out of the window and open it from the outside to let the DW out. Nope! won't work. I see an ACE Hardware (Ace is the place). I go inside and buy an screwdriver set with a bewildering array of bits and head back out intending to remove the inside of the lockset. I can't get back in! The window is high and I am old. Back into the ACE for a ladder. Meanwhile the DW has called our super duper deluxe AARP road emergency service to have a locksmith come and get it fixed. Smart! Sadly AARP special RV and car road insurance does not fix locks on RV's on Tuesday afternoons in Florida. I climbed back in and, being short on time by now we headed for the campground. When we got there we had to get a sweet little old lady to come outside and check us in. We leaned out of the window and she got on tiptoes and we got checked in. Once I backed into our very tight space I went out of the window and plugged in. The DW tossed the ladder out and I came back in. We called 10 or so locksmiths. I left many messages. I set to work on it and in time got the inner plate off, figured it out and somehow pulled the broken latch back in thus escaping our prison. A week later I was still getting annoyed calls from locksmiths who felt I should have waited for them.

I want to tell anyone replacing their lockset to always get the one with the deadbolt so that you have something to hold the door closed when the latch breaks! That was five years ago. Two days ago, in a parking lot. While hooking up the toad, I found myself locked out with the motor running. The DW volunteered to climb in the window this time and although I thought this interesting (in a dress) I climbed in. Glad we kept the stepladder! It took a while but I got it open and we continued using the deadbolt only. Here's to Trimark. Not only saving a bundle using a cheap bolt but making sure that we can only get their replacement. Admitting that the latch is unsuitable for use but not making the new one any better. You have to admire that kind of greedy douchbaggery. Is there a class action suit? There ought to be.
Well Have fun!
I do
Hope you enjoyed the story.
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Old 09-26-2015, 08:50 PM   #2
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Since you seem to be buying these things quite often; what's the chance you could disassemble the lock and take the broken part to a machine shop. Have them duplicate the broken part in either brass or stainless steel. Probably cheaper than a new lock.
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Old 09-27-2015, 12:10 AM   #3
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Kahoona,

We didn't trust TriMark to build a lock worth replacing the doomed 60-650.
Instead, we got a Bauer EM Electric lock.

See:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/outl...ml#post2405936

Yes, it is more money...but TriMark was not getting my business.
And, I agree TriMark should be held responsible for the 650's known weakness

Safe travels
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Old 09-27-2015, 09:25 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdpreece View Post
Since you seem to be buying these things quite often; what's the chance you could disassemble the lock and take the broken part to a machine shop. Have them duplicate the broken part in either brass or stainless steel. Probably cheaper than a new lock.
Thanks. I have heard that it could be done. I have replaced these twice. I always assumed that having a replacement turned as a one off piece would be prohibitively expensive. I will make a call or 2 and see. It would indeed be a permanent fix and I like that.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarab0088 View Post
Kahoona,

We didn't trust TriMark to build a lock worth replacing the doomed 60-650.
Instead, we got a Bauer EM Electric lock.

See:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/outl...ml#post2405936

Yes, it is more money...but TriMark was not getting my business.
And, I agree TriMark should be held responsible for the 650's known weakness

Safe travels
I like this. I wonder how reliable the electronics will be. I would really like to have one. The $250 is tough to manage at present though. I have to check both options.

Tri-Mark really should have to make some sort of compensation but that is not how the would works anymore I guess.


I'll report back.
Thanks
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Old 09-27-2015, 10:59 AM   #5
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New model lock

I put the new model lock on and had to do two different things to get it to fit! First when I shut my screen door it hit one of the lock handles red I believe not to much problem shaved it down with a drimmel to fit second the pins sticking off the door jam are smaller on the new lock new pins are in the box change pins no problem the lock latch piece on the door jam was hard to get out but just keep trying and it will come don't bend trim its like a puzzle Maybe 30 minutes total R and R much better lock works better than new!
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Old 09-27-2015, 12:36 PM   #6
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Machine shops are not always as expensive as you might think. We have a small local shop near us who totally rebuilt the slide gear box on my 04 Tropi Cal bedroom slide for about $100. Just read where someone else suffered the same problem and paid $800 for a new gear box. Of course I may just have found a real jem of a machine shop as I live in an agricultural community where the farmers fix rather than replace most everything.
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Old 09-27-2015, 04:38 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noleakman View Post
I put the new model lock on and had to do two different things to get it to fit! First when I shut my screen door it hit one of the lock handles red I believe not to much problem shaved it down with a drimmel to fit second the pins sticking off the door jam are smaller on the new lock new pins are in the box change pins no problem the lock latch piece on the door jam was hard to get out but just keep trying and it will come don't bend trim its like a puzzle Maybe 30 minutes total R and R much better lock works better than new!
Is this the Trimark 060-1650 that you are installing?
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Old 09-27-2015, 04:45 PM   #8
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I am considering getting one of the electronic ones. I can get them for $219. I can have it sent to the next place I will be and put it on there. I wonder if the bolt is stronger than the Trimark. One thing about the Trimark is that the clunky way it is made causes it to need a hard slam to make it latch. I think it is this that breaks the cheap bolt. I am hoping that the electronic will be better made.
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Old 09-27-2015, 07:33 PM   #9
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Kahoona,

If you are considering the electronic lock we recommeded above, please notice that on the electronic Bauer EM, only the deadbolt is locking. To lock the door, the locking deadbolt is operated by the electronic key pad and/or manually by the exterior key or interior lever.

The main latch bolt does not lock like the TriMark models. So, you can slam close the door, OR you can gently/quietly close/latch it by opening the latch handle and pushing the door closed, then releasing the handle.

This single lock set-up has caused us no issues and we think the locking main bolt is really more of a dealer benefit - since all TriMark latch bolts (not the deadbolts) are keyed to 1 of 2 master keys.

And because only the deadbolt locks, we now never get caught inside trying to unlock both levers (which were opposite twists to unlock on our old 60-650).

For replacing the Tri-Mark 60-650 with the Bauer, be sure to order the Bauer EM #013-531 by AP Products. The other Bauer locks will not be an exact fit.

We highly recommend it for ease of use, reliability, ease of install, and fit and finish.

Best luck
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Old 09-28-2015, 05:32 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarab0088 View Post
Kahoona,

If you are considering the electronic lock we recommeded above, please notice that on the electronic Bauer EM, only the deadbolt is locking. To lock the door, the locking deadbolt is operated by the electronic key pad and/or manually by the exterior key or interior lever.

The main latch bolt does not lock like the TriMark models. So, you can slam close the door, OR you can gently/quietly close/latch it by opening the latch handle and pushing the door closed, then releasing the handle.

This single lock set-up has caused us no issues and we think the locking main bolt is really more of a dealer benefit - since all TriMark latch bolts (not the deadbolts) are keyed to 1 of 2 master keys.

And because only the deadbolt locks, we now never get caught inside trying to unlock both levers (which were opposite twists to unlock on our old 60-650).

For replacing the Tri-Mark 60-650 with the Bauer, be sure to order the Bauer EM #013-531 by AP Products. The other Bauer locks will not be an exact fit.

We highly recommend it for ease of use, reliability, ease of install, and fit and finish.

Best luck
Thanks. Yes. I noticed that. The deadbolt is the lock and the latch is just a latch. That seems fine to me. My hope is that the latch bolt itself is not made out of pot metal like the trimark. Is it made of brass or steel? If not it will still break and leave us locked in/out and poorer in the bargain. I will trust and see.
This can all be avoided is we could pull the latch and close it gently but often we have one hand full and besides, a door ought to be able to latch itself without engaging the release first! I'm hoping for the best!
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Old 09-28-2015, 08:18 AM   #11
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Had similar experience(see earlier post). Had to damage door to pry our door open. New lock not much better. We just use deadbolt now. Now to try to fix the damage to door
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Old 10-01-2015, 08:39 PM   #12
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We bought a better quality one from TriMark that has a steel bolt. Call their customer service and ask about the possibility. Extra $, but worth it in my mind. Good Luck, HarveyP
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Old 10-02-2015, 06:22 PM   #13
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I would have to replace the door because I would have busted it open. Redneck door would be a piece of blue tarp screwed into door frame with clear plastic piece foe door window and lots of duct tape holding everything together.
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Old 10-03-2015, 10:58 PM   #14
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Kahoona, if feel your pain. Lucky for me my Trimark POS failed while parked in my driveway. OUTLAW Mods and Easy Fixes - Page 71 - iRV2 Forums

Okie, that's the problem, when this bolt fails, you can kick on that door forever, and you will not get it open. Trimark really should step up and correct this, and provide compensation for replacement. What happens when this lock fails during an emergency like a fire? Could be really tragic.
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