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Old 04-13-2009, 03:08 PM   #15
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Update: I had about 10 minutes after lunch today and elected to take the panels out of the inside of the front compartments. Doing so exposed both 30 gallon tanks. Without Hooligan's information, I'd never have guessed the arrangement. Anyway, I can clearly see the tanks and sensors and will be able to exactly control the fill and LED monitoring process to troubleshoot. I didn't have time (or a helper) to get into that this afternoon. It will probably have to wait until the weekend.

The idea about adding a window in the outer cover is a good one. I may work on that this weekend, too.

This is great! As always, I'm very thankful for your support.

Charlie
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Old 04-19-2009, 08:16 PM   #16
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Update:

Thank you, thank you!. I finally had time to work on the FW tank sensor setup. Here were the results:
1. I measured the ground lead on the tank to a known good ground and found a high resistance. I could get solid ground on the wire itself but not the screw going into the tank. I wiggled everything around and suddently, the high resistance was gone. I worked the screw and wire together.
2. I put the jumper on and checked all of the LEDs. They light as they are supposed to.
3.Now the bad news. The 1/3 tank sensor is right about 1/2 up the tank. The space to get to 2/3 is very short and full is not much further. I did discover that the winterizing drains do NOT empty the tanks. I'm not sure that even pressurizing them with air would get all of the water out. As a result, I suspect that we cannot use all of the water in the tanks either. Perhaps the tank sensors were intended to work the fuel gauge and never let you get to empty.
4. I also discovered why the tank is so hard to fill. The water filled the forward tank and it tanks nearly 15 minutes to equalize the level between the two tanks. The sensors are on the aft tank. So you keep pouring water in, expecting to see some sign of life on the LEDs. If you stop at 1/3, 15 mintues later (when the tanks have equalized) suddenly the sensors read 2/3 full.
5. Picking up on Holligan's idea, I'm going to glue plexiglass windows on both tank covers. The insulating factor of the plexiglass will be better than the flimsy material that was used and I'll actually be able to see what is going on.

Based on my experiences to day, I doubt that a more expensive monitoring system is going to do much to help me. My biggest issue is trying to get an accurate level reading during the fill process. The best thing to do, it appears, is fill in stages. I recorded the time that it took to fill the tanks to set off the 1/3 full sensor. If I'm able to get anywhere close to that on the next tank fill, I'll just watch the time, not the sensors.
Down the road, I might re-plumb the cross tank pipes to a larger diameter.
I wasn't able to see the outlet that goes to the water pump and I will be working on finding that at my next opportunity.

Thanks again to all who provided guidance and encouragement.

Charlie
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Old 04-20-2009, 03:33 AM   #17
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Charlie, glad to hear you have straightened it out. THe flow rate will also determine the amount of time it will take to fill to a particular level; so it varies from place to place.
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Old 04-20-2009, 08:34 AM   #18
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Thanks for the additional suggestion, Mike. Mostly, I fill the FW tank from home. I am, however, running the fill process through a whole house pressure regulator and whole house sediment filter. My expectation is that, regardless of input pressure from the CG, the fill process should be about the same. The purpose of of adding the windows in the compartment walls is so that I can see the actual tank levels and verify what is happening.

My goal is to have about 20-25 gallons available, especially on trips so that we have to stop some place with no hookups, we can still function completely. If I knew that I were going to be someplace with no hook-ups for an extended time, I would fill the tank more. Otherwise, I don't want to carry the extra weight for no purpose.
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