Undercarriage LED Wiring

[woltz]

I hooked mine into the switch near the door that turns on the porch light. There are wires that run from that switch bank into the basement and out to the steps so adding a couple more wires for the LED strip was easy.

[Kxbronco]

Lots of good ideas so far. I was thinking that the wiring was going to be the hardest part, but now I think mounting the lights might be the hardest part.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by Kxbronco

Lots of good ideas so far. I was thinking that the wiring was going to be the hardest part, but now I think mounting the lights might be the hardest part.

Kx,
Much of how your lights will be mounted depends on just how the motorhome manufacturer designed the undercarriage and compartment floors. That, along with any support structure(s) will dictate your mounting options. Good luck.
Scott

[Kxbronco]

Ok folks I'm starting the installation of the lights in my original post. I haven't decided exactly how I'm going to wire them yet as I'm still trying to lean more about the actual electrical side. I have a question about the functionality of the switch panel in the link below. Since there is a breaker built into each switch does it basically function like a standalone switch that runs to a fuse block that then feeds the lights? I'm thinking this switch panel basically combines switches and a fuse block into a single unit. Probably still going to tie into the existing cargo lights, but just curious for future reference.

https://www.amazon.com/Gang-Wired-Ro...48865574&psc=1

[woltz]

Originally Posted by Kxbronco

Ok folks I'm starting the installation of the lights in my original post. I haven't decided exactly how I'm going to wire them yet as I'm still trying to lean more about the actual electrical side. I have a question about the functionality of the switch panel in the link below. Since there is a breaker built into each switch does it basically function like a standalone switch that runs to a fuse block that then feeds the lights? I'm thinking this switch panel basically combines switches and a fuse block into a single unit. Probably still going to tie into the existing cargo lights, but just curious for future reference.

https://www.amazon.com/Gang-Wired-Ro...48865574&psc=1

Way overkill for a string or two of LED lights, in my opinion. I just re-read your original post, if you already purchaswd the kit from the URL then it should have some wiring diagram and hook-up requirements with it. It says comes with wireless remote and all. If you didn't get a wireing diagram contact the seller, for that price you should get some good support.

[Kxbronco]

Woltz, I don't disagree with you at all. I have very little experience with electrical stuff and am just taking the opportunity to learn and understand more about it. So back to my original question, am I right in thinking the switch panel basically combines switches and a fuse block?

[woltz]

Originally Posted by Kxbronco

Woltz, I don't disagree with you at all. I have very little experience with electrical stuff and am just taking the opportunity to learn and understand more about it. So back to my original question, am I right in thinking the switch panel basically combines switches and a fuse block?

That is how it reads to me.

[Dutch Star Don]

I ran LED's under both sides of my previous coach, between the front and rear tires. Here's something I did that I saw another do and liked. I bought a mechanical timer that ranged from 0-12 hours (Home Depot). I connected the lights using power from inside one of my bays. I selected a bay that was not under a slide on the passenger side. I mounted the timer in an outdoor box and then installed inside the bay on the wall.

In the evenings, I would turn the LED lights on for the time I expected to be outside or a reasonable hour. So if it was 6:00pm, I would set the lighting for 5 hours so they would go off at 11:00pm.

I also used two switches so both or just one side could be turned on. The switches also included dimmers so I didn't annoy my neighbor if I had one close by.

They actually work great at night. They provide enough light to let you safely walk around, yet work great if you want to watch the stars and not be blinded by the lighting.

[marjoa]

I know it's to late for the OP, but for others looking into doing this...
we choose Boogey Lights for our coach. Incredibly easy to install and mount and tie into the battery for a power source with it's own receiver controller. Then they are turned ON/OFF, change colors, dimming and brightness, change to different modes etc, etc with a small hand held remote control transmitter. I also bought their larger controller so I have the option to add more lights later. They also have a phone app to control them as another option, but I choose the traditional hand held controller. Don't need another app on my phone that may or may not work in the future as we change phones or update the OS. They also are LED and draw hardly any power. You need to check them out as you research your options.

https://www.boogeylights.com

[Kxbronco]

Thanks again for all the input. Dutch Star Don, I love the timer idea!

[C.Martin]

If the bug bites you...plan ahead.

I added a self-resetting breaker off the non-continuos battery side of the house disconnect relay. Meaning...if I shut the coach down with the house disconnect...the boogey lights will be unpowered as well.

From there...it powers an inexpensive four fuse terminal block. I currently have two LED controllers connected. One for under the slideouts...and one for under the belly of the coach. I still have an under awning string and controller to mount...and I want to do another 32 ft around the front and rear of the coach underbelly.

Where I am now...and 13.4v currently on the house battery...I pull 8.7 amps powering the LEDs I have now...on full bright white mode...

So...If you find you like these...may as well do a proper power source for them. I cannot imagine troubleshooting a system that someone tapped into step lights or something else.

It used to drive me nuts helping my brother troubleshoot his lobster boat. It was the epitome of wiring disaster. So yes...maybe I overcompensate and make all my wiring very neat and well documented. I think it will pay off later when CRS kicks in. I won't be wondering what's powering what. I just look at the fuse panel labels.

[Kxbronco]

C.Martin, that was kind of the way I was heading. When I turn off the 12v disconnect (salesman switch) there would be no power to my new lights. Best I can tell the switch panel I mention basically combines the switches and the fuse block. In this scenario, I would run power from the 12v disconnect relay/solenoid secondary side to the switch panel and then all the new stuff would run to the switch panel.

[C.Martin]

Originally Posted by Kxbronco

C.Martin, that was kind of the way I was heading. When I turn off the 12v disconnect (salesman switch) there would be no power to my new lights. Best I can tell the switch panel I mention basically combines the switches and the fuse block. In this scenario, I would run power from the 12v disconnect relay/solenoid secondary side to the switch panel and then all the new stuff would run to the switch panel.

Perfect...very clean.

Note...on our coach the house relay is fed by a 150A catastrophic fuse. When tapping into that source for LEDs...having the run to the first fuse or dc breaker as short as possible is a good idea. That way there is very little possibility of the wire being chaffed or munched on by hitchhiking rodents with 150A voltage potential. The wire beyond you LED protection will be much lowerer amperage.

The self resetting breaker for mine is very close to the relay...using the same design criterea as the coach manufacturer. From there is is routed thru the basement to the fuse block distribution point for the controllers.

[Kxbronco]

Thanks for the heads up Charlie.