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Old 08-07-2013, 04:01 PM   #15
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I like how the title of this thread gives the impression that some toilet odor is desirable.
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:26 PM   #16
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007,
Nobody's gettin' no stinking steel band on my bowels. LOL
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Old 08-08-2013, 06:41 PM   #17
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UPDATE

Quote:
Originally Posted by "007" View Post
If its a Sealand toilet it has a steel band around it and if not tight water will come out of bowel onto floor tighten the band will pull bowel and base together to stop leaking.
UPDATE:

I indeed have a Sealand toilet. As 007 stated, there is a steel band that holds the seal in place between the toilet bowl and the base. I removed this band, as well as the plastic seal joints that it holds together, and inside I found the source of the offending odor....disgusting caked urine. I spent several hours cleaning and disinfecting everything with Lysol and then with bleach. The odor is gone for now but I can see this occurring again, so I plan to replace the Sealand with a better designed toilet.

Thanks 007!

Craig
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:29 PM   #18
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Thank you for the update, I hope it works out well for you.
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:39 PM   #19
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A little full strength CLR, occasionally poured into the bowl of my SeaLand toilet, has prevented the calcium build up in the seals for the 9 years since I replaced them.

BTW, I have a question about the title of this thread: "Unwanted Toilet Odor":
Is there such a thing as a "Wanted Toilet Odor"?

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Old 08-08-2013, 08:40 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig P. View Post
UPDATE:

... so I plan to replace the Sealand with a better designed toilet....
If the seals are aligned and the band it tight, there is should be no problem, and also this design allows for relatively painless replacement of the seals. My coach is 12 years and I have had to replace the seals two times for mineral deposits causing it to not hold water, but never had odor problem except for the floor seal which was misaligned at NRV factory, causing it to wear prematurely.

Glad you found the problem and I think you can rely on the seals now that you have them seated properly.

H
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Old 08-08-2013, 09:09 PM   #21
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Quote:
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If the seals are aligned and the band it tight, there is should be no problem, and also this design allows for relatively painless replacement of the seals. My coach is 12 years and I have had to replace the seals two times for mineral deposits causing it to not hold water, but never had odor problem except for the floor seal which was misaligned at NRV factory, causing it to wear prematurely.

Glad you found the problem and I think you can rely on the seals now that you have them seated properly.

H
x 2

I only replaced the seals one time, 9 years ago, (when they were 8 years old).
BTW, I've read that occasionally pouring, or spraying, water into the small round drain holes near the top of the SeaLand bowl will?/can? prevent tank odor from escaping.

New is not always better!
Not only will a new "better designed?" toilet be very expensive but many lack the durability of the SeaLand

Some electric RV toilets, (what's next electric toilet paper??? LOL), malfunction and continue to flush, flush flush....that could become a real problem if you are away from the coach.

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Old 08-08-2013, 09:33 PM   #22
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^^^ not to divert thread - but we have electric toilet in main bath but not in the 1/2 bath. We turn the water off when we leave. Which given the number of things that can leak is a fair idea even if you don't have an electric thrown. The only thing to worry about is someone coming along and turning it on. I put a small North Face bag over the handle and synch it up. So far so good.

OP - glad ya got it fixed as it was clearly an issue for you and I was starting to smell something thanks to your excellent descriptive skills!!
Steve
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Old 08-08-2013, 09:34 PM   #23
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Nothing wrong with the Sealand toilets I have two in my coach bath 1/2 they just need to be taken care of.
The rubber seal at the floor flange should be changed because of the spill from loose steel band to get rid of any further order.
My Sealands are ten years old never had a problem and always keep water or RV anti freeze in bowl in winter months so seal does not dry out, NEVER ALLOW WATER OUT OF BOWEL.

SEALAND TOILETS
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Old 08-09-2013, 12:07 AM   #24
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I'm not anti-Sealand, in fact I'm considering replacing my Sealand Traveler 110 Lite with a Sealand Traveler 500+ toilet. I don't care for the metal band design, which I believe allowed the collection of liquid waste, creating the odor I described.

I agree it's wise to keep water in the bowl. It can however quickly evaporate in hot climates if not in use. If I know I won't be using the RV for an extended period, I drain the water out of the bowl and coat the ball valve seal well with Vaseline. I don a latex glove and apply it liberally with my hand. This keeps the seal well lubricated in the absence of water.

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Old 08-09-2013, 09:59 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig P. View Post
I don't care for the metal band design, which I believe allowed the collection of liquid waste, creating the odor I described.

I agree it's wise to keep water in the bowl. It can however quickly evaporate in hot climates if not in use. If I know I won't be using the RV for an extended period, I drain the water out of the bowl and coat the ball valve seal well with Vaseline. I don a latex glove and apply it liberally with my hand. This keeps the seal well lubricated in the absence of water.

Craig
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I've had no problem maintaining my 17 year old SeaLand 900 series toilet.
I occasionally re-tighten the metal band to the recommended 65 inch pounds with a Harbor Frieght 1/4" drive torque wrench.
A few oz of CLR in the bowl periodically cleans and lubes the flush ball seal.
Because tank odor can escape through traps of the bowl overflow if the water evaporates, I add water in the overflow holes every few months.
There is a lot of useful information in the Owners Manual.
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Old 08-10-2013, 01:42 PM   #26
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Thanks again everyone for your help. I just finished replacing my old SeaLand 110 Lite with a SeaLand 510H. Same metal band design, but now at least I know that I need to periodically tighten the band, as well as inspect the area around it for cleanliness. The new toilet works well and is much quieter than the old one. The hand sprayer works much better as well.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mel stuplich View Post
I occasionally re-tighten the metal band to the recommended 65 inch pounds with a Harbor Frieght 1/4" drive torque wrench. A few oz of CLR in the bowl periodically cleans and lubes the flush ball seal. Because tank odor can escape through traps of the bowl overflow if the water evaporates, I add water in the overflow holes every few months. There is a lot of useful information in the Owners Manual.
Mel,

you must have a more comprehensive owner’s manual than I do. Mine says nothing about tightening the metal band, much less how much torque to use.

When you say you add water to the overflow holes, exactly what holes are you referring to?

Thanks.

Craig
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Old 08-10-2013, 01:57 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig P. View Post

Mel,

you must have a more comprehensive owner’s manual than I do. Mine says nothing about tightening the metal band, much less how much torque to use.

When you say you add water to the overflow holes, exactly what holes are you referring to?
Thanks
Craig
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The torqe spec is in the "Troubleshooting Guide" of my manual.
The 2 "overflow holes" in my bowl are 1/4"-3/8" round holes near the rear of the bowl, up near the "top rim".
Mel
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Old 08-10-2013, 02:34 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mel stuplich View Post
Craig
The torqe spec is in the "Troubleshooting Guide" of my manual.
The 2 "overflow holes" in my bowl are 1/4"-3/8" round holes near the rear of the bowl, up near the "top rim".
Mel
Thanks for the info Mel.

BTW, in my last post, I forgot to mention why I decided to replace the old toilet instead of just cleaning it. The white plastic around the metal band collar and the area near it at the toilet base was permanently stained and the odor still lingered after multiple cleanings with Lysol and bleach (used separately). Since I had everything apart, I decided to just replace it, to be on the safe side.

Craig
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