Upgrading Headlights to HID...

[gemini5362]

Why would you need a beefier wiring harness. My understanding of HID is that they are a lower current draw than regular lighs.

[Maladjusted]

They do draw less than incandesent bulbs once fired and lit, but at startup they need good strong current.

[Maladjusted]

Yup... Sorry, my bad. www.ddmtuning.com

[Sky_Boss]

Originally Posted by RV Wizard

I removed the DRL relay and installed a standard relay in its place.. The DRL relay drops the voltage to the headlights causing the HID lights to flash on and off. Changing to a standard relay supplies full voltage and HID light stay on when the key is turned on.

I have been looking into using additional relays to provide better power to my headlights. This is based on this article.

Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

My DRL are the low beams at low power. I suspect that my wiring would be basically like yours. My current low beam lights are Hella 90mm canisters using a H9 bulb. Hella also makes a 90 mm canister for HID that I could mount in its place.

I've read where HIDs don't require as much to run but a good source to start up. If I find I have low voltage at the bulbs, I would think I need to address that whether or not I convert to HIDs.

So...

I'm thinking that the low beams are fed by either the DRL circuit at low power or the headlight switch at full power. I am also assuming that by activating the headlight switch the DRL relay gets bypassed. Am I on the right track so far?

Then...

Can I also assume that the power to the light bulbs if from a single wire that is either fed by the DRL circuit or the headlight switch? The only difference being that the DRL circuit feed is at reduced power.

If so...

I could still use the output to run a relay scheme suggested by the article above. In that case, it would either provide more voltage to the halogens for more light from the existing bulbs or better power to an HID ballast. The HID option is more expensive and would only be considered if improving the light output of the halogens wasn't enough.

[RV Wizard]

Originally Posted by Sky_Boss

I have been looking into using additional relays to provide better power to my headlights. This is based on this article.

Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

My DRL are the low beams at low power. I suspect that my wiring would be basically like yours. My current low beam lights are Hella 90mm canisters using a H9 bulb. Hella also makes a 90 mm canister for HID that I could mount in its place.

I've read where HIDs don't require as much to run but a good source to start up. If I find I have low voltage at the bulbs, I would think I need to address that whether or not I convert to HIDs.

So...

I'm thinking that the low beams are fed by either the DRL circuit at low power or the headlight switch at full power. I am also assuming that by activating the headlight switch the DRL relay gets bypassed. Am I on the right track so far?

Then...

Can I also assume that the power to the light bulbs if from a single wire that is either fed by the DRL circuit or the headlight switch? The only difference being that the DRL circuit feed is at reduced power.

If so...

I could still use the output to run a relay scheme suggested by the article above. In that case, it would either provide more voltage to the halogens for more light from the existing bulbs or better power to an HID ballast. The HID option is more expensive and would only be considered if improving the light output of the halogens wasn't enough.

You are correct in that sufficient gage wiring for any load is used in the circuit. Some manufacturers could skimp on this but my Spartan wiring for the headlight and DRL circuits is adequate and I have seen no problems. You do want to insure all connections are clean and tight to prevent resistance and good current flow. For those manufactures that do use a smaller gage wire that would not be sufficient, then wiring adequate for the load controlled through relays (again adequate) be installed for the HID circuit.

[Tony Lee]

Just be aware that adding a DIY HID kit may cause problems in those states that require annual roadworthy inspections - especially applies to low beam conversions because the beam shape ends up quite different to the approved lights and caused glare to oncoming drivers.

[Fred Cooper]

Originally Posted by Sky_Boss

I have been looking into using additional relays to provide better power to my headlights. This is based on this article.

Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

My DRL are the low beams at low power. I suspect that my wiring would be basically like yours. My current low beam lights are Hella 90mm canisters using a H9 bulb. Hella also makes a 90 mm canister for HID that I could mount in its place.

I've read where HIDs don't require as much to run but a good source to start up. If I find I have low voltage at the bulbs, I would think I need to address that whether or not I convert to HIDs. ...text deleted

Look at the wiring diagram for the intended HID conversion before you decide to run relays and new wiring. For instance, if you convert to the ddmtuning type HID conversion, you DO NOT need to address the low voltage. I had 10.5 volts at the headlight bulb, researched the wiring upgrade using relays, looked at the HID conversion, and just went with the HID conversion. The old headlight wiring is only used as a switching signal, and a complete new 20 amp circuit with adequate wiring size is part of the HID conversion.

Having said that, if you ever wanted to convert back to the original headlights, then you might want those relays.

Fred

[jasright]

Thanking about buying daylight running lights leds for my mh they're easy enough to install. Saved on my insurance by putting them on my Ford Escape.

[Sky_Boss]

Originally Posted by Fred Cooper

Look at the wiring diagram for the intended HID conversion before you decide to run relays and new wiring. For instance, if you convert to the ddmtuning type HID conversion, you DO NOT need to address the low voltage. I had 10.5 volts at the headlight bulb, researched the wiring upgrade using relays, looked at the HID conversion, and just went with the HID conversion. The old headlight wiring is only used as a switching signal, and a complete new 20 amp circuit with adequate wiring size is part of the HID conversion.

Having said that, if you ever wanted to convert back to the original headlights, then you might want those relays.

Fred

In effect, if I understand what you just said...the DDM conversion uses relays in the same manner as the Daniel Stern article does by diverting the power from the headlight connection to control a relay for the HID and running power through the relay for the HIDs from a shorter, better 12V source. Correct?

The biggest hurdle I keep beating my head against is the DRL issue. I would like to go with the Hella HIDs because the canister they are in will be nearly a direct replacement of my current Hella halogen. The other thought I have could run a

I don't really want to loose the DRLs even though I make it my NORMAL practice to run with headlights on anyway. Regardless of whether I upgrade my current lights with relays and better power or convert to HID, the concern is that if I:

1. Remove the DRL relay I loose that safety advantage if I forget to turn on the headlights. (Canadian registered vehicles must have DRLs. Just an FYI reminder.)
2. Replace the DRL relay with a standard relay that when it gets dark I will be running on headlights only without any of the other ancillary marker/tail lights on. Will I forget to turn lights on the old fashion way?

Schematically, if I could isolate the DRL output and direct connect it to my current halogens and then when the DRLs flip over to night time operations or if I have the headlights on run that output to relays, it would appear that I can improve my night driving with brighter light. Now...I don't know if that is practicable. Of course, that assumes that when the DRLs go to night mode or I turn on the headlights from the cab that the low power to the low beams is automatically shut off.

I feel like I am beating a . LOL Maybe I a missing something really easy.

[Fred Cooper]

Originally Posted by Sky_Boss

In effect, if I understand what you just said...the DDM conversion uses relays in the same manner as the Daniel Stern article does by diverting the power from the headlight connection to control a relay for the HID and running power through the relay for the HIDs from a shorter, better 12V source. Correct?

On my DDM tuning conversion, I do not see separate relay(s), but electronically I believe it is doing the same thing. It does require a new 20 amp fused connection to the 12 volt system.

Sorry, but I'm no help on the DRL issue.

Fred

[Sky_Boss]

Originally Posted by Fred Cooper

On my DDM tuning conversion, I do not see separate relay(s), but electronically I believe it is doing the same thing. It does require a new 20 amp fused connection to the 12 volt system.

Sorry, but I'm no help on the DRL issue.

Fred

Did you buy a kit? If no kit, do you have some part numbers for what you bought?

THANKS!

[Fred Cooper]

Originally Posted by Sky_Boss

Did you buy a kit? If no kit, do you have some part numbers for what you bought?

THANKS!

My coach headlights were vintage 1998 ford explorer versions. Know what your headlight bulb designation is before you begin ordering.

Yes, it is called a "kit", but when you get on the ddmtuning website and go to their HID conversions, you'll see drop down boxes for wattage
(I did 35Watt), bulb type (I had one bulb with two filaments for hi/low beams), and color selection (I did 5000K). There are other drop down boxes for optional items that I did not order (mounting brackets, hid harness, error eliminator, and adapter cables).

I received the items with no instructions, but the instructions can be downloaded from their web site.

It's not exactly "plug and play", but not hard either. On the "hi/lo" single bulb version, there was one wire that could be connected two different ways for controlling the hi/lo function that had to be determined by experimentation. I also had to slightly modify the bulb holder by removing part of the molded handle in the rear due to the way my coach manufacturer mounted the headlights without any clearance behind the bulb holder.

My ordering experience was ok but not outstanding. It took about 30 days to get the items, and there was no shipping notification and no tracking info. Overall, the product was good, the price was much lower than a lot of other kits, and the lifetime warranty is hard to beat.

Fred

[PapaBobby]

I installed an HID kit on my Chrysler 300. What a difference! The area of illumination is way, way brighter. On my vehicle I didn't need the optional wiring kit that's needed on some vehicles to prevent the system from generating a DTC code. Although I don't drive the rv much at night, I'm thinking about getting a set for it as well. A good retailer will give you the correct product for the best results and offer lots of assistance.

[Sky_Boss]

OK...I think I have a good handle on the basics of an HID upgrade particularly as it applies to DRLs. From my research, the biggest thing to know about the system is whether or not the DRLs are on the low beams and also if the light system is on a can-bus. At this time I don't know if my lights are on a can-bus or not but I do know that my DRLs are on the low beams.

BTW...I have read where DRLs on low beams do not actually on low power. Instead they are pulsed rapidly causing them to look like they are on low power. This becomes important in understanding why HID ballasts don't like DRLs on low beams.

So...per the folks at The Retrofit Source (TRS)...

1. If my coach low beams with DRL are NOT on a can-bus system then installing an HID harness gets that job done. The net result is that the DRLs will activate relays that are part of the HID harness and power the low beams at "full power" instead of low power. Otherwise the DRLs perform as normal.

2. If my low beams are on a can-bus system this poses a problem because the can-bus harnesses won't provide adequate power to the ballasts and the regular relay harness will trigger a lamp-out warning or flickering. The solution is to disable the DRL preferably. If that's not technically or legally possible (ie if you reside in Canada where all vehicles must have them) then you have to go for the can-bus harnesses and remember to turn your low beams on every time you drive. This will deliver full (instead of half) voltage to the headlight circuit and provide the power that the ballasts need to run without flickering.

Now...revisiting a previous suggestion about replacing the DRL relay with a standard relay I am wondering if that is a work around to the can-bus problem.

Finally...perhaps the biggest problem is legality of simply using HID kits to change bulbs without changing the optics. The link to the article seems pretty clear that HID conversions are illegal.

Are HID Kits Legal or Safe - The Xtreme Revolution

I'm thinking that I will revisit the Hella 90mm canisters that or DOT approved. It is more expensive but legal. The DRL issues would be identical so all my incessant questions seem to help me with this set up.