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Old 01-29-2015, 07:05 AM   #29
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If your battery charger is putting 15 VDC into your batteries during storage, it's boiling water away. Mine were receiving 14.4VDC in storage. I asked on escapees.com about that high float voltage, and was advised to unplug my battery temperature sensor in cold weather storage. I did, and voltage quickly dropped to 13.3, which is .2V higher than a "normal" float charge of 13.1V.
There is nothing wrong with your batteries getting 15.5 volts. If you have Trojan batteries than they are supposed to according to Trojan. That's the point. It takes more voltage to properly charge cold batteries. In the cold I don't believe you're going to boil batteries with the proper voltage ( according to the maker of said battery )
Trojan specifically recommends temp compensation and you are choosing to bypass this. Interesting.
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Old 01-29-2015, 08:55 AM   #30
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In storage , you are not charging you batteries, you are storing them. Please cut and paste the Trojan info, where they suggest float charging your batteties at 15.5 volts.
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:52 AM   #31
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Copied directly from manufacturer. Daily charge for 12volt system is 14.8 volts. Of course if you're not using your batteries (storage ) do whatever works for you. The 14.8vdc is for 80 degrees. With temp compensation that would be closer to 15.5 in the 30's.


Battery Maintenance | Trojan Battery Company

Table 2

Daily Charge 7.4 14.8 29.6 44.4 59.2
Float 6.6 13.2 26.4 39.6 52.8
Equalize 7.8 15.5 31.0 46.5 62.0
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:27 AM   #32
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Float is, 13.2 + 1.4 ( temp @30)= 14.6, From your site.

A daily charge would come after a daily use, not storage.

Hey. I live on battery, never see float or 30 degrees.
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Old 01-29-2015, 06:20 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by okcnewbie View Post
The 14.8vdc is for 80 degrees. With temp compensation that would be closer to 15.5 in the 30's.
Based on the site...

Quote:
Correct the charging voltage to compensate for temperatures above and below 80 F (26.6C). (Add .028 volt per cell for every 10 below 80 F (26.6C) and subtract 0.028 volt per cell for every 10 F (12.2C) above 80 F (26.6 C))
Daily Charge @ 80F : 14.8V
Correction Voltage @ 30F : 0.028 * (80-30)/10
Total charging Voltage @ 30F : 14.94
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Old 01-29-2015, 07:21 PM   #34
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Flooded lead-acid batteries should not sit at 14.4 volts or above for extended periods because at that voltage they will begin to gas and lose water. Storage (float) voltage should be 13.2 - 13.8 depending on temperature. And of they should not see at 15+ volts at all unless you are doing an equalization, and even then for no more than a few hours.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:04 PM   #35
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It should be noted that many chargers advertise an 'equalizing' mode but it often is actually just an occasional bump up to absorption voltage and not a true equalization. Both Progressive Dynamics and Iota and many Xantrex models all do this (raise voltage to only around 14.4 volts and call it 'equalization') when it really is not. Better than nothing probably but not a proper equalization.

The point is if you have one of these popular chargers and think 'my electronics survive equalization all the time' they are really receiving no more than standard absorption voltage. Exposure to 15.2 - 15.5 volts (as a true equalization would entail) is something different.
Your are right about equalization voltage, and Trojan states it, and disconnecting all battery loads during equalizing on their website:
Battery Maintenance | Trojan Battery Company
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:36 PM   #36
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Here are a few tidbits some of you may find useful.

Normal DC voltage range is between 0 to 15 Volts DC.

RV converters (battery chargers) will produce 13.8 to 14 volts and alternators between 13.5 to 15 volts.

In general, and you must read this whole post, RV deep cycle batteries should be equalized monthly, or every other month, depending on the battery. (again, depending on the battery). It is a separate charge for a flooded-cell battery and is a controlled, overcharge cycle where the charger will hold at voltage up to around 16.3 volts DC, with a small current flow, which then tapers off to the float charge. Advantage is it removes all residual sulfate coating from the battery plates. Sulfate builds up on the battery plates over time. As the sulfate grows, the ability of the battery to maintain a charge decreases. Equalizing brings all the cells in the battery to the same state of charge and capacity, and mixes the electrolyte by the vigorous bubbling action of the high voltage.

Do not equalize gell cell or AGM batteries was the advice given until awhile back Some mfg now recommend equalizing some AGM batteries annually or even every six months.

Best to see what your specific battery mfg recommends.

What I'm saying is summarized from one of my Electrical Systems for RV books copyright 2012 and one of my RV repair and maintenance books as of 2004.

It is possible for me to have misinterpreted something I have read, but batteries are very complex as I have learned and there are many procedures for testing and maintaining them. Because damage can and does add up slowly or fast as time goes on, and there are many kinds of batteries, and their conditions, internal temperatures, usage and charging and storage vary, one rvers experience may not be the same as another. To say all went well for me doing it my way, doesn't mean all will go well for another trying to do the same.
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Old 01-30-2015, 10:32 AM   #37
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In general, and you must read this whole post, RV deep cycle batteries should be equalized monthly, or every other month, depending on the battery.
As noted, follow manufacturer's advice but I think you'll find more often than not that equalization is recommended only when required (i.e. specific gravity per cell varies more than a specified amount) rather than on a regular schedule. Equalization can be hard on the battery and generally it should be performed only when necessary, and certainly not every month under normal circumstances. Or at least if it is required that often then the battery is probably well on the way out.
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Old 01-30-2015, 10:54 AM   #38
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I have used PowerPulse units on my House and Chassis batteries for years. I have never had to equalize any battery when using this device nor do I recommend it.

It keeps sulfation from adhering to the plates.

This thread has been a great discussion. Lots to learn about batteries.

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Old 01-30-2015, 12:24 PM   #39
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he point is if you have one of these popular chargers and think 'my electronics survive equalization all the time' they are really receiving no more than standard absorption voltage. Exposure to 15.2 - 15.5 volts (as a true equalization would entail) is something different.
Not to disagree with you but as I said, I have done equlazition runs using the Prosine, that will run up to 8 hours, at over 17 volts if needed.
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Old 01-30-2015, 05:01 PM   #40
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Not to disagree with you but as I said, I have done equlazition runs using the Prosine, that will run up to 8 hours, at over 17 volts if needed.
Do you mean that you subjected your 12-volt equipment to 17+ volts?
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Old 01-30-2015, 05:19 PM   #41
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RogerS.
My Xantrex manual, and Exide, both state " a sealed lead-acid battery should not be equalized". Batteries should only be equalized only as smiller stated. I'd rather believe what battery mfgrs. say than a general study book on on this subject. Did you read what that Trojan website says?
When it comes down to finishing this; anyone is free to do as they wish with their possessions. No-one but the battery mfgrs. will change my mind about equalizing their product, and I'll do that while adhering to what my charger manual says.
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Old 01-30-2015, 05:39 PM   #42
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Do you mean that you subjected your 12-volt equipment to 17+ volts?
Well, some of it yes, Some of it can not be turned off. Some of it can. I generally turn OFF the TS-2000 when I do that, though I doubt if it is ever fully off.

I have seen a GM alternator break 16 volts.
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