Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > MH-General Discussions & Problems
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-12-2007, 07:06 PM   #1
Member
 
jcrowder47's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 55
After getting back from a month trip to Maryland and North Carolina, and after having the rad flushed. My temp gauge still went up on hills, I took it to the repair shop, the tech and I went on a test drive with my mini van on the tow dolly and with his computer tester connected to my motor home. His tester showed normal operation temp while driving on low grades. As we went up a long up hill grade, my gauge started to climb, but his tester, which reads straight from the on board computer, showed the highest temp was 110c (230f). His tester also showed that the load was up to 72%, (on the long grade), which is very good. As we started going down the hill, my gauge temp went back to the normal range. The tech stated, that it is unusal for the gauge to go down that quickly, after going almost in the RED. Durning this time, his tester never got above the reading of 110c (230f). He said that it looks like the gauge my be goin bad, or there may be a loose ground. But, since the temp gauge is in the main cluster with the other gauges, that could not be, since the other gauges would be doing the same, if there was a loose ground. I don't want to replace the cluster, unless I have to.

What he suggested was to install a outside gauge. I could not remove the main senor, since the on board computer needs it to maintain the operation of the engine. So, I had to get a 3/8 copper "T". I put the orginal senor in the top of the "T" and the new senor on the side, with a reducer. I found a switched 12vdc and connected it up. Checked for leaks at the "T", let the engine ideal for about 30 minutes. The new gauge showed a sitting temp at 185f and the cluster gauge was at it normal setting.

I will be leaving Tuesday for about a 2 month trip to New Orleans, two locations in Florida, two locations in North Carolina, Virginia and Denver then back to Florida then home in Georgia. Hopefully, this may be the answer to my problem. I will let you folks know what happens after some of the stops. Other wise, I will have to repace the water pump and the rad. $30.00 is a lot cheaper than my $250.00 through Good Sams coverage.
__________________

__________________
2008 36'QSH Phaeton

360HP Cummings
jcrowder47 is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 07-12-2007, 07:06 PM   #2
Member
 
jcrowder47's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 55
After getting back from a month trip to Maryland and North Carolina, and after having the rad flushed. My temp gauge still went up on hills, I took it to the repair shop, the tech and I went on a test drive with my mini van on the tow dolly and with his computer tester connected to my motor home. His tester showed normal operation temp while driving on low grades. As we went up a long up hill grade, my gauge started to climb, but his tester, which reads straight from the on board computer, showed the highest temp was 110c (230f). His tester also showed that the load was up to 72%, (on the long grade), which is very good. As we started going down the hill, my gauge temp went back to the normal range. The tech stated, that it is unusal for the gauge to go down that quickly, after going almost in the RED. Durning this time, his tester never got above the reading of 110c (230f). He said that it looks like the gauge my be goin bad, or there may be a loose ground. But, since the temp gauge is in the main cluster with the other gauges, that could not be, since the other gauges would be doing the same, if there was a loose ground. I don't want to replace the cluster, unless I have to.

What he suggested was to install a outside gauge. I could not remove the main senor, since the on board computer needs it to maintain the operation of the engine. So, I had to get a 3/8 copper "T". I put the orginal senor in the top of the "T" and the new senor on the side, with a reducer. I found a switched 12vdc and connected it up. Checked for leaks at the "T", let the engine ideal for about 30 minutes. The new gauge showed a sitting temp at 185f and the cluster gauge was at it normal setting.

I will be leaving Tuesday for about a 2 month trip to New Orleans, two locations in Florida, two locations in North Carolina, Virginia and Denver then back to Florida then home in Georgia. Hopefully, this may be the answer to my problem. I will let you folks know what happens after some of the stops. Other wise, I will have to repace the water pump and the rad. $30.00 is a lot cheaper than my $250.00 through Good Sams coverage.
__________________

__________________
2008 36'QSH Phaeton

360HP Cummings
jcrowder47 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2007, 07:22 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
LVJ58's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 2,145
It might be easier just to buy a Scan Gauge II and hook it up to yoour obdII connector. They only cost $169.95, easy to install and set up. Gives lots of information including coolant temperature.

Here's their website if interested: http://www.scangauge.com/

Just a suggestion, good luck, Jim
__________________
Jim & SherrySeward

2000 Residency 3790 v10 w/tags 5 Star tune & Banks system Suzuki XL7 toad
LVJ58 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Overheating Problem Karlee1114 Tiffin Motorhomes Owners Forum 4 08-04-2008 02:24 PM
Itasca Overheating problem Buster661 Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 13 06-08-2008 09:52 PM
Cummins ISL overheating problem? John_Canfield Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 56 10-31-2007 11:23 AM
First Problem- False overheating ?? Lil'Darlin1972 Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 6 07-12-2007 07:34 AM
Cummins ISL overheating problem? MH-General Discussions & Problems 56 12-31-1969 07:00 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:41 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.