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Old 08-13-2007, 09:02 AM   #15
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i have not seen the orange...but my 2006 has gold/yellowish antifreeze

Peter Griffin
2011 F250 Crew gas
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Old 08-13-2007, 05:40 PM   #16
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Y'all may not want to hear this, but ...

I had a 2000 32' Rexhall with the V-10 and it cracked a head right at 38k miles. I never had a bit of warning or anything leading up to it. Ran fine one day and the next day, she was pumping antifreeze out the exhaust. Ford picked up the tab on parts since it was barely out of warranty, but the dealer just laughed when I asked if there was something we could work out on labor costs.

After that incident, I had the same overheat issues for the next 5-6k miles til I traded it in.

I'm relating this not to complain, but to being aware of a possible internal problem.


- - - - - - - - - - -

'06 HR Endeavor 40PAQ (Mission Hills decor). All options, but still finding more to add.
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Old 08-13-2007, 06:25 PM   #17
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I have 99 HR Endeavor with V10 ,and i just did 6k trip to Yelowstone ,towing my Grand cherokee .Did BearTooth pass from Billing's to north-east entrance.Temperatures in 90'ts.I have SCAN-GAUAGE and my temp never went more than 210 ,and fan would kik in at 210 and cool things down to 200.So if your fan is not strting to roar at 210 i would look in to it .
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Old 08-13-2007, 10:26 PM   #18
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On our 2001 we have 2 fans, one manual mounted to the front of the engine in which case the thermostat that controlls it is a spring inside of the housing on the front of the fan and wouldn't have anything to do with your temperature sensor. The other one is electric and is controlled by the temperature sensor.

Either one could fail, the manual ones in particular become less accurate with age as does the sensors that control the electric one. Also on ours at least there are TWO temperature sensors, one controlls the fan and one works the dash gauge and reports to the computer. One can fail without the other failing so don't let that one fool you, be sure to find out if your model has one or two and check them both if it has two.

As for a headgasket leak, when your engine is toatally cold you can remove the radiator cap and if you can see it clearly and it's full, which it should be with a resivour/recovery system (if it's not that itself is a sign of a problem, closed systems should NOT have any air pockets) then you can start it with the cap off and watch it, if your headgasket is leaking you should see bubbles, watch it as it starts to warm, you'll even see the "flow" begin to get stronger as the thermostat opens, if you watch it to this point and then a few more seconds (the fluid will start to overflow a little as it gets warm, that's normal and not a problem).
If you watch it that long and do not see any bubbles then one final test once it's warmed to this point is have someone give it some gas and ease the RPM's up to at least 1700, the fluid will overflow more quickly but it should be a "smooth" overflowing, if you have continual bubbles than you probably have a head gasket leak.

One a Side Note: There was a Ford notice sent to dealerships in parts of the south and southwest suggesting that before selling V10 models in certain regions of the country that they should replace the factory installed
high-temp 192-195 thermostat with a medium-temp 180-185 degree thermostat to reduce the chance of overheating. Chrysler had a simlar notice and even went as far as sending out cars to the south with an instruction sheet and a new thermostat in the glove box of vehicles being sent to certain regions. The problem is many delerships never installed them and just tossed them in a corner during the new vehicle prep process. I'm sure Ford delaerships often did the same thing and I am wondering what about chassis or engines sent to outside companies such as Motor Coach builders? Did they ever even get such notices? Did they bother to do anything with them if they did or were they more worried about just getting the engines installed or the coach bodies put onto the frames?

If you change your thermostat you may consider going with the medium temperature one, it's still hot enough so the computer / ECM works fine and unless your going to Alaska will still keep you plenty warm during the winters. It will help keep your temps down on hot days. They do also make 160-165 degree low-temp thermostats but unless your driving in the Carabian those can sometimes cause the computer or ECM to think your always in "warm-up" mode so should not be used on newer computer conntrolled vehicles, though they can be great on older models without computers or ECM's such as carburatated models, especially in the deep south and southwest.

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Old 08-14-2007, 04:22 PM   #19
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If you suspect you have a head gasket problem the best way to test for it is to use a combustion leak tester. A compression test will only show one or more cylinders are low. It won't tell you why the compression is low. It could be not building pressure due to a burnt valve, bad compression ring, bad head gasket, or a cracked head, among other things.

If you truly have a bad head gasket compression gasses are more than likely enetering the cooling system. The combustion leak tester samples the gasses in the cooling system. It uses a fluid that changes from blue to yellow in the presence combustion gasses.

Here's a link to a more complete explaination: http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/hea..._leak_test.htm

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