Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > MH-General Discussions & Problems
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-21-2009, 05:39 PM   #15
iRV2 Marketing
 
DriVer's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Coastal Campers
Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 23,304
Blog Entries: 70
Quote:
Originally posted by two2go:
Seemed to work. I go. I stop. Cost $137 included replacing the fuel filter with an adapter kit I supplied. At 19.3k miles and three years, the old fluid was not too gunky at all.
Excellent! Keep up the good work.
__________________

__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Taylor Extremes, SGII
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
RV/MH Hall of Fame - Lifetime Member
DriVer is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 03-29-2009, 07:28 PM   #16
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by DAN L View Post
ROGER...
i changed my power steering fluid to AMSOIL SYNTHETIC UNIVERSAL POWER STEERING FLUID, PSF. it took almost 2 qts.
on my moho, there is a blue hose that runs from the bottom of the power steering reservoir to the top of the brake master cylinder booster. i removed this line at the brake booster and drained the fluid through the hose. then i cut off about a inch of this hose and reconnected it to the brake booster using a new hose clamp. then i ran the engine, operated the steering and brakes, checked for leaks and topped off the power steering reservoir.
i used 9ea 12 oz cans of CASTROL LMA brake fluid to flush my brake system. castrol lma has a very high boiling point both wet and dry and is readily available at most auto parts stores and is priced reasonably. check out my previous post on how to do this using the aux brake electric motor with a large set of vice grip pliers on the brake bellcrank. my dw operated the bellcrank and refilled the master cylinder while i bled the fluid, under pressure, from the individual brake calipers using a 2' length of 5/16 plastic hose and liter soda bottles. on the front brakes, it was necessary to remove a brake hose bracket to gain access to the bleeder valve.
if you have any questions, you may pm me or send me an email.
dan
Dan L I rember reading your proceedure on using the brake booster pump but didn't save it. I saved a link to it and now the forum has changed and I can not find it. I will need to do this in a few weeks so can you please email me or give me some help finding the other post. rvrovers quadessa2@myway.com
__________________

__________________
rvrovers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2009, 08:48 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Homestead,FL
Posts: 148
I Just had my P-32 Sightseer done at the workhorse dealer here in Homestead,FL $169.00
__________________
oldpa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2009, 05:13 AM   #18
Senior Member
 
DAN L's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,898
Quote:
Originally Posted by rvrovers View Post
Dan L I rember reading your proceedure on using the brake booster pump but didn't save it. I saved a link to it and now the forum has changed and I can not find it. I will need to do this in a few weeks so can you please email me or give me some help finding the other post. rvrovers quadessa2@myway.com
i cannot find many history items on the new "improved" irv2 forum either. it doesn't make sense to do away with this large library of knowledge.

you need a large vice grip plier. the longer, the better.
i attached the vg plier to the flat part of the brake bellcrank. it must be very tight or it will slip. leave the ignition key off. turning the brake bellcrank is a substitute for pushing the brake pedal down inside the coach. going inside and outside the coach to press the brake pedal and refill the master cylinder with brake fluid on her hands would have been a messy operation.
my dw used the vg plier to turn the bellcrank slightly with a 12 inch cheater bar attached, which energized the aux brake booster pump while i opened the brake bleeder valves on the calipers (7/16" box wrench). start with the r. rear, then l. rear, r front, then l. front. my dw monitored the fluid qty in the brake master cylinder and added fluid as necessary. i stopped bleeding the brakes about every 12 oz so my dw could add fluid. i closed the caliper bleed valve while the system was pressurized to keep air out of the caliper. it took 9 ea 12 oz cans of castrol lma dot 4 brake fluid to flush my system to clear fluid. it took most of the fluid to refill the master cylinder and to flush the rear brakes.
i drained the master cylinder as much as possible with a turkey baster with 5/16 plastic tubing attached to it to start with. i had some honey like stuff floating on top of the fluid and on the brake mc caps. it was difficult to get that all out. i used 18" of 5/16 plastic tubing and 5 liter soda bottles to bleed the brake calipers.
the whole procedure took less than 1 hour, including clean up.
if you have more questions or comments, my email address is: dsloucks@hotmail.com
__________________
01 WINNEBAGO 35U W20.8.1L SW Wa, Hi. Good Sam, SKP. AMSOIL fluids. BANKS ecm program. SCAN GAUGE II w/ Ally temp. 2 LIFELINE GPL-6CT AGM Batts on their sides. TST tptts. K&N panel air filter. AERO mufflers. TAYLOR plug wires. ULTRA POWER track bar. KONI fsd shocks, toad '14 smart car
DAN L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2009, 01:09 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
tropical36's Avatar
 
American Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: SW Florida
Posts: 1,589
That's a ridiculous price. I had mine changed in Buffalo, WY for around $150 and where they can charge what they want without question as the shop sits at the bottom of Powder River Pass (almost 10,000 ft.) going east and the scene of many disasters involving brake failure including death.
__________________
07 Revolution LE 40E_1 1/2 Baths_Spartan MM Chassis_06 400HP C9 CAT_ Allison 3000
Dinghy_2010 Jeep Wrangler JKU ISLANDER
1998 36ft. National Tropi-Cal Chevy Model 6350 (SOLD)
tropical36 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2009, 09:48 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Columbus, IN
Posts: 109
Knock on wood, I have had NO brake problems on my 2005 W22 in nearly 17000 miles. But I decided to flush the fluid today. Got about a quart of nasty looking stuff out of the reservoir with a baster. Hooked up a remote starter to the Hydro-boost motor, employed DW to push the button, opened the bleed nipple, and...nothing. Just a little dribble. I reasoned that unless a brake port was uncovered, no fluid would flow. So I went to method 2; attached vise grips to brake intermediate shaft and DW gave a tug. Opened nipple and...success. Sort of. Good flow for one or two seconds, then just a dribble again. (DW still holding pressure on shaft.) Reasoning again , decided that brake systems usually have a tipple valve that shuts off flow in event of a catastrophic failure so fluid is not lost through a broken line. So reverted to open-close, open-close, open-close routine while DW push-release, push-release, push-release, just as has been done since the invention of hydraulic brakes. So what am I doing wrong? The rest of you make it sound so simple. The good news is, I got another quart of ugly fluid out of the calipers. Persistence pays off, I hope.
__________________
2016 Newmar Ventana 4002
2013 Honda CRV
bandcworkhorse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2009, 10:30 PM   #21
Senior Member
 
DAN L's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,898
Quote:
Originally Posted by bandcworkhorse View Post
Knock on wood, I have had NO brake problems on my 2005 W22 in nearly 17000 miles. But I decided to flush the fluid today. Got about a quart of nasty looking stuff out of the reservoir with a baster. Hooked up a remote starter to the Hydro-boost motor, employed DW to push the button, opened the bleed nipple, and...nothing. Just a little dribble. I reasoned that unless a brake port was uncovered, no fluid would flow. So I went to method 2; attached vise grips to brake intermediate shaft and DW gave a tug. Opened nipple and...success. Sort of. Good flow for one or two seconds, then just a dribble again. (DW still holding pressure on shaft.) Reasoning again , decided that brake systems usually have a tipple valve that shuts off flow in event of a catastrophic failure so fluid is not lost through a broken line. So reverted to open-close, open-close, open-close routine while DW push-release, push-release, push-release, just as has been done since the invention of hydraulic brakes. So what am I doing wrong? The rest of you make it sound so simple. The good news is, I got another quart of ugly fluid out of the calipers. Persistence pays off, I hope.
did you find any sticky honey-like stuff in the master cylinder?
my dw says that she had to push the vicegrips attached to the brake bellcrank "close to 1/4 of a turn" when we flushed our brake system. it takes a lot of pressure and the vicegrips slipped several times. my vicegrips were not big enough. when she needed to release the pressure on the vicegrips to rest and check the master cylinder fluid level, she would tell me and i would tighten the bleeder valve. we used about 100 oz of castrol lma dot 4 brake fluid to get clear fluid out of all 4 bleeder valves.
__________________
01 WINNEBAGO 35U W20.8.1L SW Wa, Hi. Good Sam, SKP. AMSOIL fluids. BANKS ecm program. SCAN GAUGE II w/ Ally temp. 2 LIFELINE GPL-6CT AGM Batts on their sides. TST tptts. K&N panel air filter. AERO mufflers. TAYLOR plug wires. ULTRA POWER track bar. KONI fsd shocks, toad '14 smart car
DAN L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2009, 08:27 PM   #22
Senior Member
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Columbus, IN
Posts: 109
The removed fluid was very dark, but no sludge that I could see. I'm just trying to figure out-do others get a continuous flow of fluid as long as the hydro-boost is running and intermediate shaft turned; or just a squirt, then reduced flow, until closing nipple and cycling the shaft?
__________________
2016 Newmar Ventana 4002
2013 Honda CRV
bandcworkhorse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2009, 03:35 AM   #23
Senior Member
 
DAN L's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,898
Quote:
Originally Posted by bandcworkhorse View Post
The removed fluid was very dark, but no sludge that I could see. I'm just trying to figure out-do others get a continuous flow of fluid as long as the hydro-boost is running and intermediate shaft turned; or just a squirt, then reduced flow, until closing nipple and cycling the shaft?
i got the squirt, the a reduced but steady flow the amount of which depended on how far the brake belcrank shaft was being turned.
i got quite a lot of gooey honey like stuff out of my master cylinder. it was floating on top of the fluid. driver says it is assembly lube for the brake components and he says it is harmless. imho it could plug orifices in the master cylinder and anti-skid components. is best to get it out of there.
__________________
01 WINNEBAGO 35U W20.8.1L SW Wa, Hi. Good Sam, SKP. AMSOIL fluids. BANKS ecm program. SCAN GAUGE II w/ Ally temp. 2 LIFELINE GPL-6CT AGM Batts on their sides. TST tptts. K&N panel air filter. AERO mufflers. TAYLOR plug wires. ULTRA POWER track bar. KONI fsd shocks, toad '14 smart car
DAN L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2009, 09:32 AM   #24
Senior Member
 
born2camp's Avatar
 
Tiffin Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 117
Just bled all of mine last weekend, used almost 4qts to flush til clean looking. It is not a bad or hard job at all. Mine was dark in color at first and probably why it took more than I thought it should but in the end, running almost clear at the calipers like the new stuff I put in. Also gives you a chance to look over everything while under there during the DW pumping the pedal.
__________________
2005 Allegro Bay 37DB
born2camp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2009, 02:30 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Palisade CO
Posts: 3,564
Like some of the others when I flushed mine a few weeks ago I grabbed the transfer arm under the hood and turned the shaft to activate the electric boost pump which pumped the fluid out.
I had a small mirror placed so I could see the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. I used a right angle snap-on adapter with a tube running from the drain fitting into a jar with some fluid in it. ( I got the adaper from my MightyVac kit). DW was underneath watching the fluid and letting me know when it started to run clear.

The job went pretty smoothly. I used 3 1/2 quarts of brake fluid.
__________________
Clay WA5NMR - Ex Snowbird - 1 year, Ex Full timer for 11 years - 2004 Winnebago Sightseer 35N Workhorse chassis. Honda Accord toad.
Clay L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2009, 02:34 PM   #26
iRV2 Marketing
 
DriVer's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Coastal Campers
Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 23,304
Blog Entries: 70
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clay L View Post
DW was underneath watching the fluid and letting me know when it started to run clear.
Clay L, Now that's what I call optimizing resources.
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Taylor Extremes, SGII
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
RV/MH Hall of Fame - Lifetime Member
DriVer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2009, 04:41 PM   #27
Senior Member
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Palisade CO
Posts: 3,564
Quote:
Originally Posted by DriVer View Post
Clay L, Now that's what I call optimizing resources.
Well I dunno, I had to buy her dinner to get her to stop complaining about "forced labor and blue jobs" .
__________________
Clay WA5NMR - Ex Snowbird - 1 year, Ex Full timer for 11 years - 2004 Winnebago Sightseer 35N Workhorse chassis. Honda Accord toad.
Clay L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2009, 11:01 PM   #28
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 28
Send a message via AIM to Ace_Clark
Just buy a new motorhome and be done with it.
__________________

__________________
Ace_Clark is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Brake fluid change machman72 Class A Motorhome Discussions 14 03-31-2009 03:37 PM
Brake Fluid change Noleakman Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 4 10-03-2008 04:07 PM
change transmission fluid, brake fluid, and engine coolant? dirko Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 10 08-26-2008 04:43 PM
W22 Brake Fluid Change Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 15 12-31-1969 07:00 PM
change transmission fluid, brake fluid, and engine coolant? MH-General Discussions & Problems 10 12-31-1969 07:00 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:06 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.