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Old 07-05-2015, 09:01 AM   #15
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I've seen where some people have put a hot water spigot in place of the drain plug. Must have lots of clearance to do this.
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Old 07-05-2015, 09:06 PM   #16
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Original nylon plugs for me. Easy to tap a hunting knife into the threads if the top comes off, then twist the threads out. Normal removal/installation is very easy w/ the proper sized socket. I drain & flush my wh once or twice a year, and replace the nylon plug about every two years or so ...easy to tell if it is getting hard/brittle. ...and I do use Teflon tape on the nylon plug ...it works very well. You can drain it with your permanently installed petcock, but I doubt you can flush it as well.
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Old 07-05-2015, 09:27 PM   #17
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Drain plugs-h/w tanks

Have a word of caution about using PLASTIC drain plugs- DON'T - they will deteriorate due to the heat of the water and time. Nylon might cost more but you won't get scalded by the center blowing out of it. I am a retired fitter and have always used liquid Teflon sealant and can turn the plug in by hand and it does not leak.
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Old 07-05-2015, 11:10 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heating man View Post
I always heard not to use anything but the plastic plug because the different metals can cause the plug to freeze in the heater.
This Galvanic Table and accompanying explanation tells everything. It's like metals that "freeze" together = gall, unless something like NeverSeize is used on the threads.
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Old 07-27-2015, 11:53 AM   #19
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Just got back from a three week Colorado trip and on the last morning the plastic/nylon (?) plug ruptured and sprayed water as soon as the water was hot. Told M to hurry if she wanted a shower and I never got one!

I put the plug in the summer of '05. Remember having trouble with the threads at the time. I am thinking I may have to clean up the threads with a 1/2 npt tap and was also thinking of using a brass drain petcock.

Will post end results.

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Old 07-28-2015, 05:11 PM   #20
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Well, that was easy, the plastic plug came out with issue!

Found a steel plug that I had and used it to "clean up" the threads and it worked very well. Today I bought a plumbers round steel wire brush to do a little more cleanup and installed a new brass plug, using the liquid "pipe dope," just because. Everything worked very well and the RV is ready to get on the road again.

Thanks to everyone that related their experiences!

H
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Old 07-29-2015, 04:24 PM   #21
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If you have room inside the water heater, I found this at Home Depot. It's a boiler drain valve and has a built on hose bib. Solves the problem of draining water out over the side of the MH, just hook a short piece of garden hose and drain. There is also a version that drains almost straight out with the handle on the side.
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Old 07-30-2015, 09:07 AM   #22
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There is just not enough room for anything other than a plug, and, just for kicks, I also tried a straight length of plastic pipe, a sprinkler riser so it was thin, and it would only screw in because it would "bend" a little as it turned. It came under the 45(?) degree joint and hit the cutoff solenoid thingy unit.

This is the first time in ten years I have had it out so the plug should work fine. I winterize by opening the outside shower faucet and that will drain the WH just fine. Now if I could just get the WH to burp real good so it would not act as an expansion tank!

H
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Old 07-30-2015, 10:27 AM   #23
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H,
The air space in the top of the tank is both beneficial and necessary. It cushions the water pressure as the water expands due to heating.
Another point is that you should be removing the plug and flushing the sediment out at least once a year.
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Old 07-30-2015, 12:10 PM   #24
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When I removed the plastic plug after ten years, there was no sediment that I could see, so just draining it once or twice a year through the normal plumbing must be taking care of that. I have seen photos of domestic water heaters nearly filled with sediment, and that is not good. Maybe I should go out and drain my S&B water heater since it is eight years old.

I never run my plumbing on "city" pressure, always from the pump which seem to negate the water hammer effect as pressures tend to ramp up and down, and not slam at the bends in the plumbing! When living in FL in my block house, I had to replace the "buffer" pipe two times, the last time I used a copper($$) vs. PVC and it worked great without cracking. Found them at a major plumbing supply place and talking to the pros at the time, they had never heard of one cracking... go figure! Every now and then, after spring refills, it will burp its self, but so far this year it has not! I figure there is enough air in the water to handle the pump pressures.

When Using the WH bypass on the way home this time, I liked having a demand pump.

Full timers and those that stay in park and on "city" pressures should keep your comments in mind as it is good advice.

H
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