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Old 07-20-2010, 05:33 PM   #1
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Water Pump Running (almost) Continuously

Hello I am a newbie here but I hope someone call help. I have a, new to me, 2007 Georgie Boy Pursuit. I noticed two weeks ago the water pump began running more than normal. I didn't think much of it. This past weekend after having filled the H20 tank the pump runs almost all the time.

When the pump is running I can here an air leak through the valve that selects city water or water tank. The valve appears to be a simple shut off valve for your bathroom toilet at your house.

1st question: If this is entraining air could it cause the pump to run virtally non-stop?

2nd question: Where do you buy a valve like this?

3rd question: How on earth do you change it out? The valve passes through a service panel. All the plumbing connections are behind it and and big nut holds it to the panel. All of the joints use the wedding band style clamps (non-servicable).

Any advice you can offer will be greatly appreciated!

Dave
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Old 07-20-2010, 05:41 PM   #2
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All of the joints are what is called PEX Plumbing and you have to have special tools to work with it. I plumbed our new house with it when I built it. The tool to crimp the wedding bands is about 300.00 alone. Best to have someone that has the tools do the work. is water spraying out? If the pump is runnning continuously try bleeding it by opening the valve that is usually below the pump, it might just have air in it and needs to be purged. Mine did that before.
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Old 07-21-2010, 08:14 AM   #3
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You should not have to turn a valve to choose between shore water or water pump use. On my coach, the valve you describe selects city tank FILL or normal use. If left in the FILL position, the pump will run continously and you will have very little water flow. One position is only for filling the tank, and the other position is for pump AND shore water use ...the one with higher pressure wins out over the other. The valve labeling can be confusing. Switch it to the other position and see if the pump works properly...
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Old 07-21-2010, 09:09 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFChap View Post
You should not have to turn a valve to choose between shore water or water pump use...
Well, on my GB and all others I've seen you do.

The outlet from the pump ties in with the same piping used to distribute water everywhere; regardless of source (tank/City).

GBM uses a series of valves to isolate portions of that piping depending on what you are doing. Their "directions" on what to open and what to close d(depending on what you are doing (printed on the housing) aren't any clearer than than the piping itself.
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Old 07-21-2010, 08:32 PM   #5
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Never heard of having to use a valve to select pump vs city water. National RV did not do it that way, nor did Monaco or Fleetwood or Damon or Gulfstream... The only reason for that would be if there is no check valve in the city inlet. Maybe that's what GBM did?
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Old 07-21-2010, 09:43 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV Roamer [Gary] View Post
Never heard of having to use a valve to select pump vs city water. National RV did not do it that way, nor did Monaco or Fleetwood or Damon or Gulfstream... The only reason for that would be if there is no check valve in the city inlet. Maybe that's what GBM did?
Gary,

The stock check valves are at the pump and at the inlet connection. Wish I could do "sketch up" dwg but try to bear with this description:

City water (hose) at inlet connection ties into faucets (cold), to water heater and to the storage tank. WH also then flows hot to the faucets. (The outlet side of pump also ties in but it also passes through a yet another valve first.)

Before the water gets to the storage tank though it passes through a valve which is supposed to be opened to *fill the tank* or to be closed when the tank is full (unless you like mud puddles).

On the "control panel" GBM describes the valve position choice as "city" or <something other term>.

I've modified and simplified my plumbing, disposed of that panel and can't remember the exact term. I have a "before" pic showing the rube goldberg manifold and valve assy but it's like 2.5mb. It's a hoot.

When I learn how to reduce to reasonable sizes I'll start posting some pics.
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Old 07-24-2010, 10:09 PM   #7
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I use a sure-flo water pump and they have a pressure switch inside that is replaceable. I have had a number of those go bad. The only place I find to buy one is Granger. When they go bad the pump will not shut off,not turn on, or do some other weird thing. A new switch is $6.00 a new pump is $79. Just something to think about.
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Old 07-24-2010, 10:29 PM   #8
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There is a new type od connectors called "sharkbite" available at Lowes/Home depot/etc whic can be used with PVC/Plex/copper tubing and just slip onto the tubing which can replace the Plex crimp rings. No special tools necessary. You may be able to use that for new valve installation however sounds to me like you have a valve in wrong position
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Old 07-25-2010, 10:44 PM   #9
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Thanks to all of you for your replys. I called Geargie Boy/Coachmen/Forest River. They hooked me up with a guy in the warranty department/service department.

The coach does have a valve to select between city water hookup or the onboard tank. Normal operating position is closed. This allows you to either run the pump and use the onboard water or use city water with no pump. When the valve is open it fills the tank.

I have a valve that is bad and it is stuck in the middle. This causes the pump to run more because the system is not holding pressure. When hooked to city water I overfill the tanks because I can not close the valve.

Apparently these years they used a shut-off valve with plastic insides. They have since changed to brass. GB is contacting the valve suppliers to come up with a retrofit solution for this. In the meantime I have to deal with a very busy water pump or a flooded campsite.

Stay tuned I will keep you informed.

Thanks Again!

Dave
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Old 07-26-2010, 09:10 AM   #10
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Quote:
I have a valve that is bad and it is stuck in the middle.
Which valve is it that is stuck in the middle? The tank fill valve? In most RVs, that is a simple ball valve and ought to be available in most any hardware store, home center or pluming supply. Brass or PVC - take your pick. Getting at it can be a nuisance, though.
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Old 07-29-2010, 03:00 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV Roamer [Gary] View Post
In most RVs, that is a simple ball valve...
Think I got the picture reducing thing sorted out.

This is the mess my GB had from stock:
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Old 07-29-2010, 03:11 PM   #12
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Quote:
Before the water gets to the storage tank though it passes through a valve which is supposed to be opened to *fill the tank* or to be closed when the tank is full (unless you like mud puddles).
Yeap. That is a tank fill valve and is not used to select city vs pump usage to feed the water faucets. It is used only when you need to add water to the fresh tank. I'd say we agree on the function, but not on the description of the valve.
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Old 07-29-2010, 04:22 PM   #13
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RVHauler is correct that you can buy push on fittings. Just cut the bad valve out and get a new valve and fittings. You might need a piece of tubing as well.

Gil
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Old 07-29-2010, 04:58 PM   #14
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ARE YOU SURE it is air you hear leaking through that valve and not water leaking back into the supply tank? (I'm guessing it's water)

The valve can be serviced, as you said it is just like the shut off valve under the sink or on the toilet at home.. May well be the same exact part number in fact, depending on how your home plumbing is installed. For RV use most fittings are 1/2 inch IPT in and out.. Just pull it, (Turn off water pump) take it to hardware and get an identical replacement if you can't fix it.
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