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Old 05-30-2016, 06:54 PM   #15
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Update....
Went out to the Motor Home this afternoon and it was very quiet.......So, I had the Main Outer door open and latched with the screen door closed.
I open the screen and was able to hear a "CLICK" ....like an electric signal was 'sent'.
I closed the door and the same thing.
I expect that my switch(es) are working properly but the motor isn't being activated.
As recommended above, it may be that I need to take a good look at the motor.

I am able to use a 12v battery to check if it does work ..using the troubleshooting procedure in the book.

So, I have a few 'leads' to check out.

Anyone have any comments on the "CLICK" that I hear when I open/close the screen. Am I on the right track???????
Please advise...................
Thanks.
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Old 05-30-2016, 07:06 PM   #16
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I had some issues with my Kwikee steps after buying our rig (used). I would follow all wires under there (not just grounds) and make sure all contacts are good. Ours had various connectors, including unsealed wire nuts. Once I cleaned everything and/or made better connections they have worked fine ever since. My 2 cents... Good luck!
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Old 05-30-2016, 07:37 PM   #17
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If the steps are in and won't come out check to see if the light comes on. If the light comes on the gears in the motor may be jamming with the gears in the step gear box. This has happen to me three times.

Unplug the steps at the motor so you don't get a unwanted movement. Take the clevis pin out and release the steps. Take the three 10mm bolts out that hold the motor up in the gear housing. There are two bolts that hold the actual motor to the motor housing. Do not take them out or you will mess up the brushes. If it is difficult to get the motor out then the gears aren't meshed and they are jammed. Keep wiggling and pulling down and the motor will come out. Inspect the gears, mine have always been fine. Put everything back together and they should work.

If that was the problem it may happen again unless you can adjust the stops for the steps when they close. I added another layer 1/8 inch or so of rubber to my rubber stoppers and they have not jammed since I did that. I got that idea from someone else and the thinking is a little more cushion will stop them from jamming.
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Old 05-30-2016, 10:49 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winnie32v View Post

Anyone have any comments on the "CLICK" that I hear when I open/close the screen. Am I on the right track???????
Please advise...................
Thanks.
Sound like the switch is working. A lot has the happen after that. Are you getting 12v to the motor? See my post (#7) in this thread
Kwikee steps for a trouble shooting vid.

H
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Old 05-31-2016, 09:03 PM   #19
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Very interesting this topic popped up again today. We left yesterday on a 4+ month trip including AK and stopped for a couple of days near Red Bay AL to tour the Tiffin plant. As I open the door at the campground, the steps won't go out. I had previously downloaded the Kwikee service brochure so I opened it up again and went through the trouble shooting. All the trouble shooting steps were good, power to module, door switch, ignition override, power switch. Didn't bring the stuff to separately power the motor. Today we toured the Tiffin plan, very impressive but I think we'll keep what we have. Driving over we passed an RV service center in the middle of nowhere and stopped on the way back. Talked with their techs and they suggested it was likely the motor. I commented that maybe I'd contact Kwikee and have them send a motor to where we will be in WA in a couple weeks. He suggested getting one from Tiffin as they were only about $50.
Went back, got one and swapped it out and all works now. Rather than fool around with a motor you know has a bad spot on the armature just get a new motor. The hardest part was getting the motor out since the steps were in and that blocked easy access to the clevis on the motor arm so I removed the whole motor/arm/plate assembly with 4 nuts. I reassembled with the steps partially out and was a breeze.
Not sure how many places will have the motor in stock but Tiffin did so if I was going to have a problem with the steps, this was the place. Good luck with it.
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Old 05-31-2016, 11:05 PM   #20
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The motor on most Kwikee steps is the same as the L.F. power window motor from a Ford Taurus. I am not sure of the model years of Taurus but a quick google search should answer that.
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Old 06-01-2016, 05:49 AM   #21
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Just a side note. You mentioned that you had 1/2 tank of fuel. You should allways store the MH with a full fuel tank. This will keep condensation down to a minimum.
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Old 06-01-2016, 05:50 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwwicks View Post
Very interesting this topic popped up again today. We left yesterday on a 4+ month trip including AK and stopped for a couple of days near Red Bay AL to tour the Tiffin plant. As I open the door at the campground, the steps won't go out. I had previously downloaded the Kwikee service brochure so I opened it up again and went through the trouble shooting. All the trouble shooting steps were good, power to module, door switch, ignition override, power switch. Didn't bring the stuff to separately power the motor. Today we toured the Tiffin plan, very impressive but I think we'll keep what we have. Driving over we passed an RV service center in the middle of nowhere and stopped on the way back. Talked with their techs and they suggested it was likely the motor. I commented that maybe I'd contact Kwikee and have them send a motor to where we will be in WA in a couple weeks. He suggested getting one from Tiffin as they were only about $50.
Went back, got one and swapped it out and all works now. Rather than fool around with a motor you know has a bad spot on the armature just get a new motor. The hardest part was getting the motor out since the steps were in and that blocked easy access to the clevis on the motor arm so I removed the whole motor/arm/plate assembly with 4 nuts. I reassembled with the steps partially out and was a breeze.
Not sure how many places will have the motor in stock but Tiffin did so if I was going to have a problem with the steps, this was the place. Good luck with it.
I hope that fixes your problem but on mine after the motor was replaced it jammed in again. The motor gears and the steps gears get jammed. I carry the old motor as a spare. I have not had the same problem since I added a little more cushion to the stops.

Also have learned to take the clevis out withe the steps up by removing the cotter pin ant then tapping the clevis pin as far as you can. You can then get a pair of needle nos pliers behind the head of the clevis pin an tap the pliers. When every thing is jammed so tight that is also an indication the gears are jammed.
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Old 06-01-2016, 06:21 AM   #23
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Another Update

Well, here's where I ended up..........

I unplugged the 4-terminal main plus as well as the 2-terminal plug to the motor.

I then removed the 4 nuts that held the motor.gearbox assy to the underside of the chassis.
....took the unit to my shop ans proceeded to remove the 3 bolts that held the 'cap' on the gearbox assy. (See pic, the two hex bolts and the slotted one I replaced a while ago).
Pried up on the cover to loosen it and quickly realized that there was some serious internal tension on this coves as it wanted to rotate with a lot of pressure. (RED Flag to me)
So, I carefully turned the cover back to align the bolt holes and replaced the 3 bolts.

Hummmmmmmmmmmm...
I wanted to check out the motor so I took the unit back to the motorhome and attached in the 2-terminal plug to the motor assy as well as the main 4-terminal plug.
My wife opened the screen door and the unit functioned as expected!!!!!
Several open/close tests showed that everything was working OK.

So, I replaced the unit to the chassis and tested it several more times.
Everything works OK and the amber light is on during operation, also.

I realize that I still may have a temperamental motor issue but at least I know where to check if I continue to have a problem.

Comments:
The cotter pin that holds the clevis pin in requires a bit of effort to remove.
(Steps are locked up and not a lot of room to work).
Once this was out, I just pried out the flange of the clevis and tapped it out with a long screwdriver.
To reattach the gear arm to the step hitch, I had to remove the two 'bumpers' so the steps could be extended more to allow the holes to line up.
Once this was done, the clevis pin was easy to insert and a new cotter was used to secure the clevis.
Bumpers were then reattached after the steps retracted.

Anyone know what the tension was that I detected when I removed the three bolts ????????

AND, looking at the photo, If the two bolts that hold the electric motor are removed, how do you get the red & yellow wires out of the flange. It looks like they go through two holes and was wondering what the procedure was to swap out the motor.

Thanks again for your time to reply.

Will keep you posted of any 'future' events.............
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Old 06-01-2016, 06:45 AM   #24
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Yours is a little different than mine. It also looks like one of the three bolts that hold the motor to the gear housing was lost at some point in time and was replaced with a screw that has a slotted head.

I don't think you want to actually remove the motor from the motor assembly housing because the brushes may get damaged. It's the three bolts (actually one screw and two bolts) on yours that separate the two gear housings. Because yours is a little different that is somewhat of a guess.

I also think the fact that there was a lot of tension is an indicator the gears were jammed.
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Old 06-02-2016, 09:24 AM   #25
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Re: Brushes on your motor

Hi guys just wanted to give a little input on motor service/repair its not uncommon for low voltage dc motors to have a dead spot preventing any motion. Mine happened while on vacation and I found just that was my problem after removing as previously described I disassembled the motor first by removing the two plugs that retain the brushes and making sure the brush angle goes back the way it came out very important. Then removed locking nuts and marked housing before I pulled end cap always checking for any washers/spacers once end cap is off the commutator can then be removed again making sure all spacers if any are where they should be. As I didn't have all the proper cleaning tools I used fine emery on the rotor and a thin nail file to drag along each insulator incase you don't know that's the line between each segment on the rotor once clean and shining again replaced all back together and tested as you did by plugging in before attaching back to step. Worked like a champ.
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Old 06-03-2016, 11:08 AM   #26
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I had the same problem you are, they would work about between 3 to 10 cycles. and not come out. After all the other trouble shooting Prying with a screw driver while DW open and closed the door was able to have them extend. Now for the most stupid fix, there are small rubber pads that when the steps are retracted they sit against at the back of and on top of the top step.
I put 1/4" washers under the pads to raise them slightly. My step has worked fine for 3 years now. I probably spent more 10 hrs trouble shooting.
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Old 06-03-2016, 12:32 PM   #27
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I was having the same problem with my steps a couple of years ago. After extensive research and testing I found out that almost all of the step motors have a problem with the spring tension on the armature brushes. To check this out, wait until the steps stop working, and give the step motor a strong rap with a hammer. If the step starts working, either replace the motor, or take the motor apart and re-bend the brush springs.
This is a very common problem that I have seen occur probably a dozen times on mine, and other rv's in our travels.

Bill
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