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Old 04-22-2008, 04:06 PM   #1
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Hi all,

'95 P32 chassis. We had a cracked flywheel which has now been replaced. It was cracked around outside of center bolt holes and fell apart when removed.

We still have a slight vibration at all speeds, and when pulling a hill it's worse, a rhythmic rumbling vibration you can feel in your butt. Feels like a bad u-joint, but seems to come from the general area of the engine/tranny. Seems like something out of balance?

I suspect whatever is causing this vibration caused the flywheel to crack. Wonder if a torque converter can get out of balance?

Any ideas?

Mac
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Old 04-22-2008, 04:06 PM   #2
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Hi all,

'95 P32 chassis. We had a cracked flywheel which has now been replaced. It was cracked around outside of center bolt holes and fell apart when removed.

We still have a slight vibration at all speeds, and when pulling a hill it's worse, a rhythmic rumbling vibration you can feel in your butt. Feels like a bad u-joint, but seems to come from the general area of the engine/tranny. Seems like something out of balance?

I suspect whatever is causing this vibration caused the flywheel to crack. Wonder if a torque converter can get out of balance?

Any ideas?

Mac
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Old 04-22-2008, 04:59 PM   #3
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The answer to your first question is torque. When you accelorate hard like from a stop sign or going up a hill when you have a heavy load like a MH the hyd.pres. in the converter try's to push it into the back of the engine and when you let up it comes back. That is why you need a flexplate.(That's what a flywheel is called whith an auto. trans. Bend it enough and it will break. For your vibration you could try unbolting the torque converter and rotating it one position at a time to improve balance. It has 3 positions it can be bolted in. Anouther thing to try is your 2 or 3 piece driveshaft has to be in time. If the sections have been taken apart and put back together differantly they will be out of balance. Just a couple of sugjestions hopethey help.
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Old 04-22-2008, 06:23 PM   #4
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Thanks speed racer.

More info:

1. I believe we've had a mild form of this vibration for several months. It would usually show up when we were climbing a steep grade between 40 and 50 MPH.

2. We've driven it 100 miles now since flexplate replacement. Went up some good grades. Vibration varies directly with engine speed and power applied. Going up hill it gets much worse, downshift and vibration frequency increases with engine speed. Smooths out a lot on level ground in 4th but still there.

Also true going downhill. Using 3rd or 2nd for engine braking is the same as going uphill
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Old 04-22-2008, 06:50 PM   #5
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With your description, I would suspect the U-Joints. I had a rear U-Joint go bad on mine and the vibration was as you describe. It went bad due to a bad casting and the lubrication was not getting to the bearings even though the proper maintance schedule was being followed to the letter. The suggestion about the drive shaft is also valid.
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Old 04-22-2008, 08:06 PM   #6
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Mac and Chris:
Thanks speed racer.

More info:

1. I believe we've had a mild form of this vibration for several months. It would usually show up when we were climbing a steep grade between 40 and 50 MPH.

2. We've driven it 100 miles now since flexplate replacement. Went up some good grades. Vibration varies directly with engine speed and power applied. Going up hill it gets much worse, downshift and vibration frequency increases with engine speed. Smooths out a lot on level ground in 4th but still there.

Also true going downhill. Using 3rd or 2nd for engine braking is the same as going uphill </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
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Old 04-22-2008, 08:27 PM   #7
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U joints need to be examined for sure,but the original flex plate grief is not likely related to U joints.A chemical reaction takes place in some cases between the cast iron engine block and the aluminum alloy transmission case that causes the aluminum to "grow" and cause misalignment between the two castings,to the extent that one or more of the transmission mounting bolt holes break off.This causes a gross misalignment of the engine and the transmission which will tear the centre out of the flex plate in short order.A typical dealership technician will not look for this problem as he is on flat rate and the clock is his enemy.For your sake,lets hope for a U joint or steady bearing alignment issue rather than the above!
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Old 04-23-2008, 04:35 AM   #8
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You could have a bad ujoint. They sometimes get stiff and don't want to move properly. The only way to check this is to remove the drive shaft and check each one. If you try this youself make sure you block your wheels it will roll away.
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Old 04-23-2008, 05:43 AM   #9
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I had an engine doing about the same thing. What finally fixed it was a harmonic balancer. The one on the engine was rusted and slow to react, replaced with junkyard piece and all was well.
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Old 04-23-2008, 05:50 AM   #10
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hi ,Folks,Flywheel cracks can be caused by the flex plate is not sitting flush against the trans convertorn some time we had to shim between flex plate and trans convertor, also the ujoints dont have to be loose to cause vibration they can be locked up and not moving freely, also check engine vibration dampner lower engine pulley ,good luck
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Old 04-23-2008, 06:32 AM   #11
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Most of the above are good suggestions, I would add check the engine motor mounts for being collapsed or weak. To eliminate drive line conclusions, try and get vibration to occur at same rpm while not moving vehicle. Also you may find a safe place and try coasting with engine off and see if vibration changes.



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Old 04-23-2008, 08:21 PM   #12
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I found some additional troubleshooting info online that listed 6 or 8 symptoms of a bad harmonic balancer. Two of them were slipping belts, and a leaking power steering pump. Guess what symptoms I've noticed just lately The shop said my PS pump is leaking, and every time I start the engine the belts squeel.

Even though the shop said they inspected the damper, I may have it replaced and see if there's any change. It's probably under $100 for the part and a couple hours labor.
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Old 04-24-2008, 04:55 AM   #13
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Help me here.
Are heavy chassis drive trains different from autos? seems like in my early years of working on all the older cars we had available as a kid the only thing with a fly wheel was a straight shift auto with a clutch and pressure plate. The only thing that came close to resembling a flywheel was a light weight 'wheel' with gear teeth on the outside to engage the starter bendix. The torgue converter acted as the clutch/flywheel/pressure plate combo.

Or am I just having a CRS attack?
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