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06-23-2011, 02:24 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 128
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I just had a slab poured, 12X18, 8' thick for $450 on cape cod
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06-24-2011, 11:26 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnyd111
I just had a slab poured, 12X18, 8' thick for $450 on cape cod
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Here in Arkansas with only one concrete company in town they want $95.00 yd plus tax using fly ash or $100 yd using all cement plus tax. no fiber glass even.
I am a 33 year retired new home builder that has used both in the past. I got so mad when they said fly ash, I did'nt get my mouth closed before bad words started coming out.
The drivers were scared of me when they first showed up with the trucks, I guess word got around pretty quick at the plant about what I think of fly ash.
Ed
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06-26-2011, 10:14 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Tehachapi, Ca
Posts: 560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed and Lou
Here in Arkansas with only one concrete company in town they want $95.00 yd plus tax using fly ash or $100 yd using all cement plus tax. no fiber glass even.
I am a 33 year retired new home builder that has used both in the past. I got so mad when they said fly ash, I did'nt get my mouth closed before bad words started coming out.
The drivers were scared of me when they first showed up with the trucks, I guess word got around pretty quick at the plant about what I think of fly ash.
Ed
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If you are in an area that has reactive aggregate, aka "ASR", which is a condition where alkalies congregate at points, expand, and on the surface show up as small pits. The same thing is occurring deeper in the the concrete, but as there is no relief, ruptures the concrete from the inside. The fly ash will help in those conditions. Otherwise it really depends on the quality of the fly ash. With the best, some of the cement can be replaced with fly ash, and ultimate strengths can be higher. With slightly poorer flyash, the strengths will be the same, but for most, the strength will not be as low as if you did not have that quantity of cement, but it is not as high as if you had the normal quantity.
ASR stands for Alkalie-Sillicate Reactivity.
If you are in a reagion that has reactive aggregate, and don't want to use fly ash, then the best thing to do is to use Type V, low alkalie cement.
__________________
PKMesser
2005 KSCA 3778 on 04 W22 with Koni FSD
Banks Headers, 503 CID
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06-27-2011, 04:10 PM
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#18
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkmesser
If you are in an area that has reactive aggregate, aka "ASR", which is a condition where alkalies congregate at points, expand, and on the surface show up as small pits. The same thing is occurring deeper in the the concrete, but as there is no relief, ruptures the concrete from the inside. The fly ash will help in those conditions. Otherwise it really depends on the quality of the fly ash. With the best, some of the cement can be replaced with fly ash, and ultimate strengths can be higher. With slightly poorer flyash, the strengths will be the same, but for most, the strength will not be as low as if you did not have that quantity of cement, but it is not as high as if you had the normal quantity.
ASR stands for Alkalie-Sillicate Reactivity.
If you are in a reagion that has reactive aggregate, and don't want to use fly ash, then the best thing to do is to use Type V, low alkalie cement.
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When I was building new homes, and only had one concrete company in town, and they used flyash, My driveways and porches were cracking bad.
After a new company that I knew was honest came to town, I signed a paper that I would buy $50,000 in concrete to help them get a loan,
I started using this co. that did not put any flyash in their concrete and my problem went way, way, down on cracking.
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06-27-2011, 04:22 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 1,083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Route 66
Material costs and especially labor costs vary widely across the country.
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Concrete ,3500 psi, 10 cu. yd min. delivered here in NJ is currently $130 per yard.
__________________
Kathy & George Zimm
Mickleton, NJ
2006 Coachman Epic & 2013 Chevy Equinox Toad
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06-28-2011, 04:53 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Florida Cooters Club
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: DeLand, Fl
Posts: 324
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Last January, I had a 40'x12' pad of 5000# concrete, no flyash, 6" thick, with 3 footer pads, #5 rebar and wire mesh done for $1700. I thought that was a good price. They had enough left to pour a 4' x5' ramp in front of the shed for the mower. And they did a great job.
__________________
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.
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06-28-2011, 05:03 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Tehachapi, Ca
Posts: 560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed and Lou
When I was building new homes, and only had one concrete company in town, and they used flyash, My driveways and porches were cracking bad.
After a new company that I knew was honest came to town, I signed a paper that I would buy $50,000 in concrete to help them get a loan,
I started using this co. that did not put any flyash in their concrete and my problem went way, way, down on cracking.
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You should have been able to specify, "No flyash", and gotten it that way! I do not believe your area of the country has issues with ASR, so the reasons for adding flyash were strictly economic on the part of the R/M operator.
__________________
PKMesser
2005 KSCA 3778 on 04 W22 with Koni FSD
Banks Headers, 503 CID
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06-28-2011, 05:44 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 619
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The driveway for our recent RV garage was $5000 for 1200 SF, $4.17/SF, including forming, base course and reinforcing (#4 @ 24" EW).
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06-29-2011, 02:07 PM
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#23
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkmesser
You should have been able to specify, "No flyash", and gotten it that way! I do not believe your area of the country has issues with ASR, so the reasons for adding fly ash were strictly economic on the part of the R/M operator.
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The first concrete company did not give a choice(never said anything about using fly ash) and I did not know back then about fly ash as this was early in my building business,
I learned after the new company came to town, they told me about it and that they would never use it. also gave me good tips on how to finish pea gravel concrete.
I had good luck with their concrete and found out the first company was using fly ash. the first concrete company also would short me big on loads to cheat me and make more money, one time they shorted me by 3 yards out of six. and charge me for holding the trucks a little longer than they thought should have.
But me and my men would spend hours waiting on them when they did not show up as promised,
you had to be here to know how crooked the first company was.
I had to use them one last time in later years in another town building my son a house and their concrete cracked worse than ever.
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