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Old 06-20-2011, 10:21 AM   #1
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What did everyone pay for concrete?

the contractor i just got the estimate from was at 25.5 bucks a square foot!!!! Brushed too so no fine finishing touches needed. Guy has a small excavator too so it's an easy dig. Not even a hard dig with a shovel.
That was for two pads, one pad at 9.5 by 7.5 and another pad at 9.5' by 8'
If my shoulder wasn't still healing I would dig it out and do it myself. I have done enough pouring myself and have all the needed equipment.. don't even need a bull float with this small of a pour.

Concrete in this area from the biggest supplier is 110 a yard. Min truck order is 5 yds Process stone is approx 28 bucks a yard for 3/4 inch
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Old 06-20-2011, 11:30 AM   #2
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The "Guy" paid $15,000 for his excavator, pays $7,000 a year in workers comp, another $3,000 in liability ins. Now he has to pay rent for a storage yard, payroll taxes, accounting fees, and the list goes on....Sounds like a deal
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Old 06-20-2011, 01:24 PM   #3
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the contractor i just got the estimate from was at 25.5 bucks a square foot!!!! Brushed too so no fine finishing touches needed. Guy has a small excavator too so it's an easy dig. Not even a hard dig with a shovel.
That was for two pads, one pad at 9.5 by 7.5 and another pad at 9.5' by 8'
If my shoulder wasn't still healing I would dig it out and do it myself. I have done enough pouring myself and have all the needed equipment.. don't even need a bull float with this small of a pour.

Concrete in this area from the biggest supplier is 110 a yard. Min truck order is 5 yds Process stone is approx 28 bucks a yard for 3/4 inch
First let me say there are ways around the 5 yd minimum order call around and see if there are any small batchmaker trucks in the area. they carry the components to the site and you pay a delivery charge plus what you use. you can pick up the stone with a pickup truck. total cost material under $200. contractor wants $3400 labor. It shoul take 2 men wit a Bobcat a day. seems rather high to me. JMO by the way I'm figuring 6" slab
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Old 06-20-2011, 01:44 PM   #4
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Shop around and get more prices but concrete is not cheap. For a 17x28, 3" pad for my ag pool I paid $1600 (after discount). I had prices all over the board. You also get what you pay for so beware.
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Old 06-20-2011, 02:37 PM   #5
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I think he saw the RV there all brand new and shiny and figured he had a live one........
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Old 06-20-2011, 11:50 PM   #6
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ctcamper.......My math shows that he's charging you $3750.00 for less than two yards of cement. His cost including forms, stakes, sand/gravel base and cement would be under $400.00. Most concrete guys can do up to 7 yards by themsleves. Two yards of concrete could be on the ground and finished in under four hours depending on the weather. I understand insurance and equipment costs, but $3350.00 for four hours of work!!!! I'd do the job for $1500.00 and still make good money.
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Old 06-21-2011, 12:04 AM   #7
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I spent 42 years making cement, not concrete but I know a fair amount about it. On a bigger slab, say 1000 ft and above, $2-$3/sq ft for a 4" thick slab is a good price. Much below that size, you will be paying for the trouble for him to come out.
I'm in CA, we never got to $110/yd, at the peak of the houseing boom. It is significantly lower now. (that's LA, where my former employer has a lot of concrete operations) If you are doing a lot of special finishing (like stamping or staining), then that can go up a lot for those services.

BTW, spec the concrete, minimum of 4000 psi at 28 days. (if I do something for myself, I go into a lot more detail, but you don't need to.) If you are concerned about the supplier, request and pay for cylinders to be ran on the pour.

Now, where's the comments about everything being so high in CA?
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Old 06-21-2011, 12:19 AM   #8
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Just for comparison, 9 months ago I put in a 50' X 16', five inches thick of 4000 psi, with fibermesh, for $2300.
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Old 06-21-2011, 12:40 AM   #9
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There are a number of fibre products that can be added to concrete today. Most of them seem to do a fair job, of: 1 improveing strength, vs wire mesh. 2. Reducing drying shrinkage crackage. (these are the hairline cracks that can show up in the first 36 hours).
Installation techniques and care have more to do with the drying shrinkage cracks than anything else. An advantage vs #4 mesh, is if you decide to remove the slab, it is a lot easier w/o the wire.

4000 PSI concrete is just run of the mill material. It is perfectly good for flatwork of about any type. You should not have to pay extra for it. But, I normally spec 6 sack mix, for reasons other than strength. The incremental cost vs 5 sack is less than $5/yd. (It will make 4800-5000 PSI) Don't let a supplier talk you into replaceing much of the cement with fly ash. A little is ok, but more than 20% replacement, will start hurting the strengths. (I was the QC manager for the last 18 years before I retired and I did testing on flyash vs natural pozzolans. Take it from someone who has seen the numbers, flyash is not everthing it is cracked up to be. There are some specific problems it can address, but unless you have those problems in your area, it is not the best thing to do. Concrete producers like it because it is cheaper than cement.
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Old 06-21-2011, 02:02 AM   #10
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A 12x30' was $850 last November here in SC. It was 4" pour to include leveling(grading) my RV port which was slopping 12" back to front. It has set up nicely, I also cut up a horse stall mat to put under my tires. So far no cracks.
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Old 06-22-2011, 01:53 PM   #11
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A 12x30' was $850 last November here in SC. It was 4" pour to include leveling(grading) my RV port which was slopping 12" back to front. It has set up nicely, I also cut up a horse stall mat to put under my tires. So far no cracks.

I cut old rubber conveyor belting to go under the tires, and have also added it underneath my wood blocks that go under my jacks. There is a lot of discussion about what is best to park tires on, I figure rubber to rubber should work. Putting it under the wood blocks is to protect the wood in wet weather.
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Old 06-22-2011, 02:16 PM   #12
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I ended up with a 30 x 10' two inch pad ... 5 inches with fiber mesh and ten inch on the outside. The base is already about 6 inches of process and pretty compacted
Guy will do it for 1800 ... best deal I could get around here so I went with it.
Not sure how much pitch to go with .
He said a quarter inch.. if he is talking 1/4 per foot then it's too steep.It's on top of a hill and there is grass on the side so I am thinking a small pitch to the side which is 10 ft wide ... maybe a drop of an inch? so water will go toward the grass and level front to back.
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Old 06-22-2011, 06:52 PM   #13
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I had a new driveway poured old one dug up, gravel dumped a lot of rebar 75 long 12 wide plus turn around front stamped design and colored edges, rounded lots of joints for $5000 look great.
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Old 06-22-2011, 07:24 PM   #14
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Material costs and especially labor costs vary widely across the country.
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