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Old 09-02-2010, 10:48 AM   #15
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I got a treated 2x10, ten feet long if I can remember, and cut it into lengths that just fit side by side into our smallest compartment. 8 pieces total. If I am parking on soft ground where I think the wood might crack, I just use two pieces stacked opposite directions. Simple and works good for me. I use the extra pieces to prop up my sewer hose so it drains.

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Old 09-02-2010, 11:32 AM   #16
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I tried using the cutting boards but when I used them on a somewhat soft surface, they bowed and looked like a soup bowl. Now I use Jack Pads from Summit Products. Mine are 1" thick plastic and measure 16 x 16.

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They have a handle machined in one corner and a hole in the opposite corner. (to hook it with a awning rod)

I have used fabricated wood pads in the past but to get the strength that I need, they need to be pretty thick plus wood pads are tough to keep clean.

These babies from Summit are indestructable and relatively light weight and easy to clean. They take up a minimum of space too. They are not cheap, but will last you forever !

Here's a link to their web site

Jack Pads and Outriggers

If you call there, talk to Al. He is very knowledgable and very helpful too.

2001 Alpine 36MDDS
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Old 09-02-2010, 03:27 PM   #17
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redmule, if you're going to spend the winter in Florida, many of the RV parks are sand/dirt/grass, including the one we stay at. In most of them, the ground is pretty well-packed and fairly hard, not at all like beach sand. We have no problem with the tires sinking in, and we use 10" X 10" pads under the jacks. The pads sink in a little over the course of the winter, but they increase the footprint of the jack enough so it won't bury itself.

In the west, most of the sand is mixed with gravel, so there isn't a problem with the tires sinking in there either.

There are lots of possibilities for jack pads from those that are commercially available to ones that are home-made. Whatever you decide to go with, just remember a diesel chassis with a GVWR of about 29K will likely have a rear axle rating of about 17K. That's over 8,000 pounds on each rear jack if you're near the max weight. Wood can crack, thin plastic can bend.
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Old 09-02-2010, 06:13 PM   #18
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I've done pretty much what others have, in my case cut 2X12's into "squares" but also drilled a 1/2 inch hole in opposite corners so I can take my window awning rod and push the blocks around and/or pull them out. I also have a couple of 2X12's that are 18 or 24 inches long to drive up on if need be to help level. My 2X12's also cracked and so put 1/2 inch plywood on one side and so far that is adequate. I also am getting to where it is much easier to use some type of extension rod to handle these little things.
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Old 09-02-2010, 06:58 PM   #19
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I use those square yellow plastic pads most of the time unless the ground is really dry and firm.
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Old 09-09-2010, 03:25 PM   #20
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FWIW, Iv heard of some campers using a set of pads made from a thick rubber mat used in the bottom of horse trailers.
Personally, Im using the yellow lego type on ours.
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Old 09-10-2010, 09:15 PM   #21
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overkill I guess. Mine are triple layer 3/4" plywood, 16" square. I have six of them, the extras help if the site is way out of level.
I use em on any surface other than concrete or gravel.
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Old 09-10-2010, 09:26 PM   #22
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I've used the orange lego type under my jacks too but they don't do well in really soft soil, I have bent up a couple to prove it! I'm looking into some of these "overkill" options now, too!


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