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Old 06-13-2011, 04:13 PM   #15
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Most of those products will state if they can be used on clear coat.
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Old 06-14-2011, 02:58 PM   #16
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I think a lot believe that wax is that hard stuff in a can that we used to use. Not so anymore. The wax is liquid and some is clear and can be sprayed on and not haze up. The big thing to remmber is that POLISH contains a cleaner such as a fine abrasive to clean road film and swirls off with the wax. You can also get just a cleaner for polishing that has no wax and requires that you put wax on after you clean it. Wax is a protectant that has no abrasive compound in it. Meguiars has it all so you have to read the labels closely as in other waxing and cleaning brands. It is real confusing if it is not all in one. Sometimes you can use the polish and take the oxidation out and swirl marks once a year or every two years then just put a spray wax onevery six months to a year. That is not hard if one uses the spray clear wax.
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Old 06-14-2011, 03:16 PM   #17
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I will second Rejex, great product. Aquepel is better than Rainx on the windows.....not to start a rant about that but it does last longer.
Guess this is a 3rd for Rejex. We also use it on the windows and mirrors and it seems to stay on longer than RainX.

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Old 06-15-2011, 04:20 PM   #18
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As a general rule, carnuba waxes are great for showcars but don't last long in real weather. That said, most "waxes" on the store shelf don't actually contain wax, which is OK since the synthetics are far superior.

I've been pleased with Meguires NXT Tech Wax (again, not real wax) on my cars - my MH finish is too far gone to bother with.

303 Protectant is great on vinyl and rubber as it is primarily a UV blocker, but I'm not convinced it is superior to a synthetic wax on paint and clear coat.
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Old 06-15-2011, 04:28 PM   #19
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The best wax is the one put on by my mobile RV Detail Company. They do every bit of the coach including the roof and the windshield. I have it done about every 5 to 6 months and hand washed in between. After six back surgeries I can only watch. Joe
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Old 06-15-2011, 04:30 PM   #20
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I use Turtlewax, paste cleaner wax. Once a year. Sure it's a lot of work on and off,
but it lasts, looks great, and is easy to keep clean. I've never thought that a
good day or two of wax-on, wax-off was not time well spent.
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Old 06-15-2011, 04:48 PM   #21
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I did our MH with Nufinish and it looks great. I did our toad with Trtle Wax Ice and am not that impressed with the finish. Next time will use Nufinish on the car too.
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Old 06-15-2011, 08:53 PM   #22
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The best wax is the one put on by my mobile RV Detail Company. They do every bit of the coach including the roof and the windshield. I have it done about every 5 to 6 months and hand washed in between. After six back surgeries I can only watch. Joe
I think you have the right solution.

Jon
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Old 06-15-2011, 09:53 PM   #23
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I've used both Rejex and Nu Finish and decided to go with Nu Finish. Both go on easy. Nu Finish comes off slightly easier (both are bad if you let them bake in the sun). Both do a good job. However, Nu Finish is about 1/3 to 1/2 of the price of Rejex, so I have a winner!

I just did my mh with 2 coats of Nu Finish (the first time I've done 2 coats back to back) and have the best coat on the mh that I've ever had.
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Old 06-15-2011, 10:04 PM   #24
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my MH finish is too far gone to bother with.

.
Nick, you need to check out Red Max Pro#3 for your "too far gone" finish. Look at a few threads about the product on the Vintage Forum.

Relatively quick, simple, cheap; no rubbing or buffing and your motor home will shine like new. Seriously!
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Old 06-16-2011, 11:31 PM   #25
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Nick, you need to check out Red Max Pro#3 for your "too far gone" finish. Look at a few threads about the product on the Vintage Forum.

Relatively quick, simple, cheap; no rubbing or buffing and your motor home will shine like new. Seriously!
Hi Chief - I've followed those RedMax threads and have considered doing it (and might still) but my stripes are cracked pretty bad and the color difference between the fiberglass end caps and the Filon sides is very noticeable and I doubt the RedMax would help that, might make it even more noticeable. Still it would be nice to see it shine even with the issues.
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Old 06-17-2011, 02:20 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brigadoon
I've used both Rejex and Nu Finish and decided to go with Nu Finish. Both go on easy. Nu Finish comes off slightly easier (both are bad if you let them bake in the sun). Both do a good job. However, Nu Finish is about 1/3 to 1/2 of the price of Rejex, so I have a winner!

I just did my mh with 2 coats of Nu Finish (the first time I've done 2 coats back to back) and have the best coat on the mh that I've ever had.
Brigadoon,

Sounds nice! Post some before-and-after pictures if you can. I'd love to see it before I decide what to use next month!

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Old 06-17-2011, 06:55 AM   #27
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littlec,
I didn't think of doing any before and after pictures. However, nothing would be better than you doing your own test. At the relative low cost of one container of Nu Finish, you could do a test section on your rv to see if you like the results. I do recommend the 2 coats on that test section to see the best results. I let 24 hrs pass before I put on the 2nd coat .
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Old 06-17-2011, 02:50 PM   #28
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littlec,
I didn't think of doing any before and after pictures. However, nothing would be better than you doing your own test. At the relative low cost of one container of Nu Finish, you could do a test section on your rv to see if you like the results. I do recommend the 2 coats on that test section to see the best results. I let 24 hrs pass before I put on the 2nd coat .
When I apply RejeX I usually wait at least 6 months before applying a second coat aside from the front cap. The front cap gets coated more depending on the use of the RV.

"Wheeling It" stated they use RejeX once a year.

One gallon of the RejeX usually lasts me for a couple of years doing the coach (35TSA Allegro Open Road including the roof and windows), my Yukon and MC 2 times a year.


Jon
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