Where do you find "ground clearance" information

[Steady_Rest]

I always took a tape measure with me when shopping for a mh. I never saw any posted information on ground clearance, which was very important to me because we only boondock. The wife had other issues that were more important to her so my battle for clearance was lost.
My concern was clearance at the center point between the axles, not wanting to tear up the coach basement. While navigating a gravel or dirt if you ever encounter a railroad grade built on a high fill relative to the road, the angle of the approach and descent to the opposite side can be severe and you don't want to high center on your basement compartments. A couple times I did drag the trailer hitch through the dirt with my previous mh.
Clearance records were kept for every mh that we looked at. The brand and make with the best wheelbase and ground clearance ratio in the length range we were looking at, was the Fleetwood Southwind 32vs. Never measured a 2017 Southwind. The notes were discarded otherwise I would post them for you.

[Skilletface]

I would add to your RV consideration, overall height as well. I am sure with increased ground clearance you will be pushing the height to '13 and greater and the roofing material is not very resilient.
Great you are putting some thought to what you are looking at doing.

[Rvlegaleagle]

Now that is interesting. I was just informed that the "chassis" is the lowest point to the ground and specifically the rear end case/housing. I was advised to get that information from FORD.

[Rvlegaleagle]

And the Ford chassis I am talking about is the E-450 cutaway for the RVs. The 2017 information on the Ford chassis isn't even available yet only the 2016 model year.

[ahicks]

I would stop listening to whoever gave you that advice.

[Rvlegaleagle]

I guess the easiest and best way to get the ground clearance information is to just see and measure it for yourself on the prospective rig you are looking at. It is a very general question. Have to bring a tape measure anyway it.

For those of you who say the jacks are the lowest point, what are we talking about in terms of traveling down the road from the bottom of your jacks to the ground?

[ahicks]

I think the measure it yourself plan may be a good one - at least until you get a feel for what's out there. From there it will be easy to spot exceptions.

I see now you're talking Class C coaches, or maybe a B. Many (most?) of those won't have the big jacks you see on the A's. Watch holding tanks and drains that hang down - as well as hitches. A generator muffler won't hang you up, but if poorly located, can get expensive to maintain.

[Skilletface]

Judging from some of your other posts your ambition is to explore off the beaten path and still have all the comforts of home. The issue is very few RV mfg. build these things to withstand the punishment of the off road.
Exploring off the beaten path in an RV is risky because of overhead and ground clearances which will deteriorate faster than can be reacted to.
Try researching an RV like this one http://earthroamer.com they are roughed. Plan a trip out west and attend an RV show which is suited toward your goals.
My personal choice was for a class A DP, they ride better and don't get the rattling like a class A gasser when taking on some of the unimproved roads. As for the toad my favorite has been the Jeep manual transmission and manual transfer case.
Much success in your endeavor.

[Rvlegaleagle]

Thanks for that:0 Right now am looking at the 2017 Jamboree (D or U) and the Dynamax Isata 4. Leaning towards the Jamboree because of heated basement, dual pane windows, auto gen set and RV ref but many things are a trade off.

You would think they would all at least give you a large fan (fantastic or Maxx) including a rain cover, rain sensor and temp sensor. It makes so little sense to pay for two of those options when you buy the rig only to have to buy new fans with all three of the options and then install them. What a nightmare unless I guess you sell fans....lol.

Just trying to learn as much as I can BEFORE pulling the proverbial trigger. Any advise is really appreciated.

[vsheetz]

Ground clearance considerations are differential, chassis, and anything low hanging (can be plumbing, generator exhaust pipe, etc.). Wheelbase affects high centering - where shorter is better. Approach angles front and rear are important. Overall, motorhomes make pretty crappy off-road vehicles. (-:

We dry camp and go to off the beaten path locations. Rough dirt roads are mostly OK - anything more is questionable. Going super slow and taking it easy is needed.

[Rvlegaleagle]

Thanks for that. I have a question though, for purposes of "center clearance" a shorter wheel base is better but what other effects does a shorter wheel base have on the overall operation of the rig?

[ahicks]

Less living space would be the first thing that comes to my mind! All else being equal, the shorter wheelbase will have the longer overhang, and likely higher rear axle weight, which doesn't sound very attractive from a handling or off road perspective to me.

[vsheetz]

Originally Posted by Rvlegaleagle

Thanks for that. I have a question though, for purposes of "center clearance" a shorter wheel base is better but what other effects does a shorter wheel base have on the overall operation of the rig?

Usually means a shorter overall house, so less living space and storage inside and under. If short wheelbase on long house then there is more rear overhang - which reduces the rear approach angle so easier to drag the rear. Also increases loading on the rear axle. Long wheelbase usually would ride and handle better, but this is a generalization, have other impacts and very case specific.

[LarryW21]

Ground clearance manufacture specs are exactly the same as claimed dry weight and maximum height.....measure/weight it yourself if you want the real number. Do I wish I could raise my Winnie a little...yes.