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Old 09-06-2010, 07:31 AM   #15
AC eagle's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: New Stanton, PA
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Originally Posted by chev View Post
We have been fighting this problem for years. it is the high mineral content of some water supplies. since we spend a lot of time in las Vegas or parts of Arizona we expose ourselves to water with a mineral content higher than 400 parts per million. The first thing to suffer is the hotwater tank and hot water lines. The build up in the hot water tank led to pin hole leaks and finally replacement. When we pulled out the old tank and looked inside it was caked with white mineral build up every where. I think I will try the vinegar idea, but how can I introduce several gallons of vinegar into my fresh water tank?
You can use a Winterize kit and suck it into the system as you wouls with RV anti freeze. Or just take off the suction line of your water pump and put it into the vinegar bottle.

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Old 09-06-2010, 09:22 AM   #16
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: lower Delaware
Posts: 46

I've been Winterizing all types of RV"s for over 35 years.I do several hundred every year & it's unbelievable the junk that comes out of the systems.
I would backflush the system with good city water pressure. You will need a few adapters, one that goes from areator thread to hose thread, a female hose to hose swivel fitting & a 1/2" male pipe to female hose.
This will allow you to connect the male end of a hose to your kitchen & or bath faucets. the male pipe to female hose will allow you to hookup to your shower hose and or toilet line. I would remove the plug from your water heater (making sure it is off, both gas & electric)You can then go to each fixture and blackflush both hot & cold to the heater drain of the water heater.Do the farthest fixtures from the water heater first.
When you reactivate, do the tub first since it doesn't have an aerator anything still loose should come out there. (I always recommend this when you first hookup anywhere)
If you think it's coming from your fresh water tank, install a good filter on the pump, Shurflow has several.
Good Luck!!!

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Old 09-06-2010, 01:07 PM   #17
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Montreal/Florida
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Originally Posted by Old Rv'er View Post
...... and if it's suburban you have an anode rod, I think its 15/16'th sized socket, with a 6" extension and very little pressure to remove. Put teflon tape on the threads of the new one and put back into the tank, and again, only get it snug good, so it does not leak. It should be checked about every 6 months and changed when 40% of it is gone. snipped.....

Suburban - Steel tank porcelain lined
Attwood - Aluminum Tank polymer lined.
For a Suburban tank a 1 1/16" socket is required..... and if you use teflon tape on the anode rod threads, you won't have to worry about replacing the anode rod in the near future. Using this tape on the threads will prevent the rod from doing its job. It requires metal to metal contact to work.

I made this mistake too. Did not have to change the rod for several years.... until someone told me why.
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Old 09-06-2010, 05:21 PM   #18
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Do the white flakes float in water:knowing this may be a clue to the nature of the material.Also,what is the make of your water heater?
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Old 09-09-2010, 09:40 AM   #19
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WOW! You guys are so helpful and full of ideas. I love this site.
Sounds like deposits in the system. I cleared the same "scale" from all our connections when I installed a new toilet and found the same thing. It's amazing how much pressure you get from your system afterwards. Now, I regularly check/clear all screens before each trip. Seems to help the hot water tank catch up quicker, too.
"If you can't learn something every day, teach something"

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Old 09-10-2010, 06:53 PM   #20
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To introduce vinegar into your fresh water supply, I have an external water filter cartridge holder that uses cartridges to filter the water. When I want to purify the water, I remove the cartridge and put the vinegar / chlorox into the empty cartridge and then hook up as usual -- as the water moves through the cartridge, it will pull the vinegar / chlorox into the tank. If you think that the buildup is just in the water heater (that is where mine usually is), you can remove the pressure releaf valve and then pour the vinegar directly into the heater through that hole. Let it soak and then using a bent tube nozel (available from camping world) you can do a power wash of the water heater and that will flush out a lot of the mineral deposits. At first I had a lot of mineral buildup but, now since I treat at least once a year, I have not had the problem.

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