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10-26-2005, 03:39 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Baraboo, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,728
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I'm looking for some insight on winter storage of our motorhome. I've found 4 options in my area for storage. They are as follows:
1. Enclosed and heated building with cement floor.
2. Enclosed but unheated building with cement floor.
3. Enclosed but unheated building with dirt floor.
4. Roof, no walls with cement floor.
What I would really like is some advice about heat or no heat and cement or dirt floor. Option 1 is most expensive and option 4 least expensive with 2&3 falling in between. I'm leaning towards option 3 since I think if I remove all the water, put antifreeze in the drains, and pull the batteries I won't need a heated building. And it seems I have read somewhere that a dirt floor is actually better than a cement floor for the tires. Not sure about any of this which is why I'm asking. Any help will be appreciated.
__________________
Steve & Nancy
2005 Itasca Sunrise 33', W20 Chassis, Ultrapower, Henderson Trac Bar
2012 Chevy Captiva Sport AWD, ReadyBrute Elite Tow Bar, Blue Ox Base Plate, Protect-A-Tow
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10-26-2005, 03:39 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Baraboo, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,728
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I'm looking for some insight on winter storage of our motorhome. I've found 4 options in my area for storage. They are as follows:
1. Enclosed and heated building with cement floor.
2. Enclosed but unheated building with cement floor.
3. Enclosed but unheated building with dirt floor.
4. Roof, no walls with cement floor.
What I would really like is some advice about heat or no heat and cement or dirt floor. Option 1 is most expensive and option 4 least expensive with 2&3 falling in between. I'm leaning towards option 3 since I think if I remove all the water, put antifreeze in the drains, and pull the batteries I won't need a heated building. And it seems I have read somewhere that a dirt floor is actually better than a cement floor for the tires. Not sure about any of this which is why I'm asking. Any help will be appreciated.
__________________
Steve & Nancy
2005 Itasca Sunrise 33', W20 Chassis, Ultrapower, Henderson Trac Bar
2012 Chevy Captiva Sport AWD, ReadyBrute Elite Tow Bar, Blue Ox Base Plate, Protect-A-Tow
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10-27-2005, 05:58 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Maplewood, MN, USA
Posts: 204
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I have #2, unheated with cement floor, with my "old" (1991) class C, I put 2X12's 4 ft long under the tires,Now, I have a 2003 class A, did the 2X12 thing until I installed a satellite dish, my door is 12X18, gets a little to close for comfort with the 2X12's. So, am I right or wrong? Was told rubber leaches, the same as a lead battery, or a sack of potatoes, right?
Thanks
Bruce
__________________
Bruce and Dyanne
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11-01-2005, 01:12 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 340
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Steve you should be fine with choice 3. Don't forget to put some kind of anti mouse stuff in it. The dirt shouldn't do anything to your RV the sun will hurt it more! good luck. Scotty.
__________________
2005 FourWinds 24T motorhome, 23' Stratos walk around, 1991 FXRS + 1994 XL 1200, 3 Springer spaniels and wife.
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11-02-2005, 07:21 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Savage, MD
Posts: 233
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Boy, are you guys lucky. Around Baltimore, there is no way you can get an RV under roof, let along having walls around that roof.
A few people cover, but most just put up with the elements.
__________________
Bill N8HDW & Nancy N8HDV
2005 Sea Breeze 8341 on W-22 Chassis
2008 Saturn Vue I-4
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