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Old 09-12-2012, 11:49 AM   #1
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Winterization

New to the rv world and need info. After draining water supply, how much antifreeze should I put in? I know it has to be run through everything, but still not sure how much to put in. 5 gallons too much? What else should I do besides that?
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:57 AM   #2
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Taking it you drained the hot water tank and bypassed it! some in the traps, if you have an ice maker, drain it. We always take the water filter off. 5 gallons sounds like alot, but depends on the HM.

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Old 09-12-2012, 11:58 AM   #3
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I use two to three gals JR
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Old 09-12-2012, 12:09 PM   #4
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I have found the best route is to drain everything and then use a compressor to blow the lines and low points. Drain the water heater and then pour RV anti-freeze in the P-traps at the sinks and shower/tub.

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Old 09-12-2012, 01:26 PM   #5
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@no class c.
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Old 09-12-2012, 01:30 PM   #6
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Only reason I thought five, it seems like it has lots of pipe to fill. What about toilet?
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Old 09-12-2012, 01:31 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXiceman
I have found the best route is to drain everything and then use a compressor to blow the lines and low points. Drain the water heater and then pour RV anti-freeze in the P-traps at the sinks and shower/tub.

Ken
I would be afraid of blowing a pipe out. Lol.
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Old 09-12-2012, 03:03 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave72

I would be afraid of blowing a pipe out. Lol.
Right, you do need to turn the pressure regulator down to around 30 psi.
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Old 09-12-2012, 03:22 PM   #9
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I empty all water from the fresh/black/grey tanks, empty and bypass the water heater, then use 3 gal. of the pink RV stuff.
In the spring, you can save about 2 1/2 gals of the pink RV stuff by re-filling the jugs from the sink/shower until the pick starts to be diluted with the new water.
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Old 09-13-2012, 07:57 AM   #10
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I assume most RVers are very familiar with winterizing rigs and likely have thr routine down to a science. My method takes about 15 min to complete and works every time. I drain all tanks, bypass the water heater then open the low point tap and blow the pipes with my air compressor. Have never had a problem with air pressure on the system but always have an air outlet open before applying air to the input. I turn turn on interior taps one at a time to blow those pipes out. I have a submersible pump I place in my antifreeze supply and I connect the pump output to the water input while in the city water mode and take the power cord for that pump inside. I turn on taps one at a time and then apply power to pump until I see antifreeze coming out.of the tap or outlet. Do this for each line, including the toilet, washer, icemaker etc. (No longer have the latter two items in my current smaller RV) Don't forget to protect the internal pump. I have a valve and pipe input to.enable running antifreeze through the pump also. The antifreeze coming from the taps fills the drain traps and protects them as well. Oh yes I drain my holding tanks before and after the above procedure just to make certain no water is lingering in the waste system.

This method has worked well for me for many years. To take the antifreeze out I just run water in and let each pipe run until the water is void of antifreeze.

I saw one person putting antifreeze into the fresh water tank, he used about 20 gal of antifreeze and it took him days to get rid of the antifreeze taste and smell. Not a recomended method.

Hope my post helps those who are new to winterizing.
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:20 PM   #11
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my coach takes 3.5 gallons on the nose, I let the washer start to fill up & then spin it two separate times to be sure no water remains in its pump. do NOT put a/f into your water heater-I drain & flush mine as the very last step...
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:40 PM   #12
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Quote:
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I would be afraid of blowing a pipe out. Lol.
They make pressure regulators for that don't you know.. Mine was set to 50 PSI when I blew out the lines.

I agree with blow the lines out, Not once but several times, pausing between blows, DO NOT Forget to drain the ice maker line if you have one. To do this disconnect it from the shut off valve, and cycle it while either letting it hang (Siphon it out) or applying 50 PSI (or less) air pressure.

But blow, wait a few minutes (like 5) and blow again, and again and again. Then use pink in toilets and drains, only.

Way easier to flush the chemicals out come spring if you don't put 'em in in the fall (The stuff in the toilet.. Well flushing that is .. Kind of normal operation).
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Old 09-22-2012, 11:57 AM   #13
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Your Class "C" should pose no problem just follow these threads, even has winter camping.
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