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Old 11-10-2005, 06:42 PM   #15
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I too had this exact same problem. It turned out to be the ignition switch.

What happens is the coach manufacturer installs too many options with too much of a load on the ignition switch circuit. As you drive and use the various options, the switch gets hot and starts to seperate, creating an open circuit, therefore killing the engine. The engine will restart after a 20-30 minute cooldown period and act as if nothing is wrong until it heats up again and killing the engine.

Workhorse is very aware of this problem and has a fix for it. They replace or relocate the optional wiring and install it to a relay, reducing the load applied to the ignition switch itself.

Hope this helps. Ask workhorse of this fix is available for your MH.

Good luck and stay on them to get the problem fixed. They have been very willing to work out the kinks.

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Old 01-17-2006, 02:34 PM   #16
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Well I'm very discouraged again. After thinking the problem was resolved, and having had all the grounds checked cleaned and retightened, It's back in the shop again. I managed 3 very short trips putting less than 400 miles on when suddenly I found myself along a different Oregon Mountain roadside and "dead" again.

This time the workhorse shop believes a loose wire behind the fuse box under the hood may have been the problem. Although, the lead tech is not certain this was the issue even yet.

For those of you who suggested the wiring harness in the steering column, pink wire, and or ignition switch circuit they don't seem to beable to locate anything wrong there.

Again thanks for all your help out there and any other suggestions or adivse is appreciated.

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Old 01-17-2006, 05:33 PM   #17
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Gregg, these types of troubles can be tuff. The wires in the harness can be any one of them. Whats happening when you adjust your steering wheel the wires that go over the bend at the top of steering post chafes across the metal bend. I found a burr in this bend, I filed down and placed a wire guard around the wires going over this bend. Are you blowing a heavy fuse 20 or 30 amp? If you are this could be the problem. I had the harness and ignition sw replaced along with a heavy fuse under the hood. You have covered everything else give this a try. Everytime they move the coach they may be moving the steering causeing it to quit. "007"
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Old 01-20-2006, 03:38 PM   #18
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Do you happen to have a battery isolator for the chassis battery? If so, has anyone tried wiring around it to eliminate it from the circuit? If it were to somehow open while driving I do believe that you would get exactly what you have experienced.

When it fails, does the problem stay with your motorhome after it has arrived in the shop? If the issue is there, they should be able to trace where the power stopps? I can imagine how frustrated you must be!
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Old 02-11-2006, 03:15 PM   #19
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Thought I would fill you in on my latest findings regarding my electrical issues which have cost me three tows.

It has now been determined that there were loose wires behind the fuse box under the hood. Workhorse has been great assisting me! Also I highly recommend if you ever need service and help along Oregon's I-5 check out McKays Truck and RV service in Albany. Great customer service and fair!
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Old 02-12-2006, 12:22 AM   #20
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Gregg, I am glad you have finally found and repaired the loose connections at the fuse box. When will the HWH jacks get repaired? Good luck and be safe.
Mike, RVIA & RVSA Certified Master RV Technician
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Old 02-12-2006, 08:04 AM   #21
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RV Wizard,

Problem with HWH should be resolved within the next couple of weeks. HWH is ground shipping replacement parts as we speak. I will keep you informed if anything new pops up. Thanks Gregg

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