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Old 07-22-2003, 07:14 PM   #15
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We also had a problem with the dash air on our 2003 Mtn Aire. We were bounced back and forth from Newmar dealer service to workhorse service.Everyone passed the buck. They charged the freon and claimed it was fixed, nah, Finally at the Buffalo FMCA rally a Newmar repair person came to our rig and replaced the part. This was bad from the get go. But bought it in Mar and didn't use the AC till Easter vacation coming back from Fla.
You could contact Carl Snyder Owner Relations Manager 800-731-8300 or email him at csnyder@newmarcorp.com
I was really impresed with the service we received from them. It works fine now.

Gas/Geo tracker toad

[This message was edited by B A. Schuster on Tue July 22 2003 at 11:32 PM.]
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Old 07-22-2003, 07:21 PM   #16
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It is definitely a Newmar problem as we had the same problem and the same problem of where the blame falls. We had ours repaired at the FMCA rally this past week end in Buffalo. Contact Carl Snyder Owner Relations Manager 800 731-8300 or email him at csnyder@newmarcorp.com They came right to our rig and took care of the problem
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Old 07-22-2003, 07:52 PM   #17
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I had my dash air fixed also, it seems to be working, but it does not blow as cold as it should.

However, that does not matter. We now run both house airs and use a fan to blow air into the "greenhouse". This works very well. We gave it a good test this past weekend. While traveling home, at the peak of the heat in the afternoon (93* and 70% humidity) and facing into the sun, we remained comfortable. This takes the load off the engine and allows it to run cooler.

When we ran the dash air under those conditions, the engine fan would kick in often. Without the dash air running, the engine fan rarely runs.

Mileage is something that I've been experimenting with. The below results always includes towing a Wrangler. Plus the air temp has always been in the 89 to 93 degree range, with the humidity usually at about 65 to 70%. lastly I cruise at about an indicated 62 mph.

When I run the dash air alone, my mileage has been in the 6.4 to 6.7 mpg range.

Dash air plus house air running, on a windy day, 5.5 mpg! Decided to not repeat that test, so with only one try the mpg result is probably lower than it might be if averaged over several trips.

Running both house airs, and no dash air, I got 7.05 mpg this past weekend. I will run this way on my way to Colorado in August to see how this number holds up.

The best mpg I've ever achieved was 7.3 mpg with no air running.

At this point I believe that during the hot months in Florida, the dash air compressor runs constantly and puts a serious drain on the engine resulting in poorer fuel mileage, than when running the generator and house airs. The testing will continue.

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Old 07-22-2003, 08:34 PM   #18
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Just returned from the Newmar factory. Had the dash air "no cooling problem". Newmar changed the Water Control Valve, and now it works great.

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Old 07-23-2003, 03:51 AM   #19
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Str8Shooter:
This takes the load off the engine and allows it to run cooler.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Terry, I just wanted to share by observation with you. Running my 37G last year, I could see the temperature gauge needle go up and then down again when the fans kicked in.

Running the 38G the temperature needle is glued to the 3 o'clock position and never moves. The only thing that's different is an ECM and tyranny shift reprogram. It is my opinion that my engine/tranny does one heck of a lot less up-shifting and perhaps that lends itself toward not heating up the engine.

Aside from that, I don't know what's different between last year and this year but whatever they did, it's working. I'm pulling a 4700 pounder and runnin' the dash air; computer constantly indicates avg mpgs in the low sevens.

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[This message was edited by DriVer on Wed July 23 2003 at 04:53 PM.]
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Old 10-31-2005, 04:19 AM   #20
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The dash air on the Workhorse has the same type of issues found throughout all of the front engine motorhomes, balance. There is good news though, Workhorse Parts has just released a system to upgrade the AC to make the system perform consistant. It is controlled by a small module and makes the system work in harmony on the chassis and body side. The kit can be found at:
http://www.workhorse.com/Default.aspx?tabid=71&Category...evel=a&ProductID= 406

If you get a chance to feel one of these systems on a show unit, you will be amazed!
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Old 10-31-2005, 01:02 PM   #21
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We have also got a problem with dash air, our"s will blow hot air when at idle. When on road work's just fine. Maybe not getting enough air through condensor. Have got to take it back for update slide sensor, they can check it then.
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Old 10-31-2005, 02:05 PM   #22
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Blaster:
We have also got a problem with dash air, our"s will blow hot air when at idle. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I think that you will find that you're not the only that experiences this type of event. Even I will often see that occur however it always return to normal as soon as you get air flowing through the condenser coils.

I think it's called "heat soak" but I could be wrong, I'm not an HVAC dude but I know one thing; If you don't move the A/C system will blow warm to hot air. Once you get on the road and things are moving right along the A/C runs normal. I ran out in Arizona and the deserts of California this summer in August and the A/C system worked "within my expectations" I should note. After all it was anywhere from 118 to 120 degrees out there but the A/C did a good job - when I was moving. Of course I had to augment the dash air with coach air but that's what ya have to do when you're running out in the August desert.

Regarding servicing your motorhome, you should go and have it checked but I think you'll find that your A/C system is performing as designed.

Key ingredient is getting air in the nose and shedding heat.
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Old 10-31-2005, 03:15 PM   #23
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I agree with Driver you have to get air into the nose to get any efficiency out of the dash air. I have over 18000 miles on my MH and I get more sold on it every mile that I put on. I like the dash air and really think that the basement AC is terrific.
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Old 11-03-2005, 07:13 PM   #24
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Before I got rid of my gasser (W22 chassis) the dash air failed twice. First time it was recharged by the dealer at PDI with no corrective measures taken. Mission accomplished on their part- it went out on me again 3 months later when I was far away from their dealership.
Had it serviced again at Workhorse's expense and they replaced the o-ring on the low pressure switch after I located the problem myself and showed them where the leak was.
Seemed to be holding the charge right up to the point I traded it off on a DP a few months later...
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