Workhorse Engine Light

[Bud10]

I have a 2005 National RV Sea Breeze LX with a w24 Workhorse chassis purchased in July of 2005. I am convinced this is the best driving motorhome chassis available. You never feel like you have to have a death grip on the steering wheel to survive the trip.

Hopefully, a Workhorse Master Mechanics will respond to this. Here is the list of on-going problems I have encountered:

FIRST TRIP:
1.) Shredded part of the engine drive belt. (enough left to get home)
2.) Engine light came on, then reduced power mode, (repeatedly). (no apparent problem.) Advised by service center to keep going and bring it in the next day.

3.) Dash A/C useless in hot weather. Only produces cold air when it is cool outside in the morning.

FIRST REPAIR: No problem engine problem found, replaced drive belt. Blamed National for dash A/C problem, but offered a very expensive upgrade kit. (National blames Workhorse and offers the same thing.)

SECOND TRIP:

1.) Engine light came on, then reduced power mode, (repeatedly). (no apparent problem.)

2.) Dash A/C useless in hot weather. Only produces cold air when it is cool outside in the morning.

SECOND REPAIR:

1.) Code showed defective throttle body, (replaced).

2.) Blamed National for dash A/C problem, but offered a very expensive upgrade kit.

THIRD TRIP:

1.) Engine light came on, then reduced power mode, (repeatedly). (no apparent problem.)

2.) Dash A/C useless in hot weather. Only produces cold air when it is cool outside in the morning.

THIRD REPAIR:

1.) Code showed a defective wire going to the throttle body. Replaced part of the wiring harness going to the throttle body with butt connectors.

2.) Blamed National for dash A/C problem, but offered a very expensive upgrade kit.

FOURTH TRIP:

1.) Engine light came on, then reduced power mode, (repeatedly). (no apparent problem.)

2.) Dash A/C useless. Nothing but HOT air.

FOURTH REPAIR:

1.) Replaced the PCM, (main engine controller).

2.) Replaced A/C compressor and a second part. Didn't have second part with a Workhorse part number on it. So, had to pay for it or wait until Workhorse could send the same part with a Workhorse part number on it. It had been in the shop for a month this time, so just paid for the part.

FIFTH THRU 8TH TRIP:

It's winter now. Ran normally. Dash A/C worked well, but then it was much cooler outside.

NINTH TRIP:

1.) Engine light came on, but did not go into reduced power mode. (no apparent problem.)

2.) Dash A/C works well in the morning and at night. However, only cool air when its hot outside, never as cold as it should be.

FIFTH REPAIR:

1.) No engine problem codes found. No repair done. Told to bring it in sometime when the engine light is still on.

2.) Dash A/C is as good as it's going to get.

TENTH TRIP:

1.) Engine light came on, but did not go into reduced power mode. (no apparent problem.) Drove directly to a Workhorse Service Center.

SIXTH REPAIR:

1.) Found a shorted out injector wire. Repaired. Ran normally for the 250 miles back home.

ELEVENTH TRIP: (Just to my RV dealer for some coach work.)

1.) Two weeks later, coach work done. They started it up to place in the delivery line. Engine light came on, engine sputtering and stalling. On all other occasions, the engine light would go off after shutting down and waiting a while. Not this time, it had to be towed to the nearest Workhorse Service Center.

It remains at the Workhorse Service Center as I write this. I hear it showed 4 different problem codes this time. Outcome is pending.

Although my confidence is badly shaken, I am still certain I purchased the best motorhome chassis available. However, the constant engine electrical problems have me so high up in a lemon tree, I can't see the ground anymore. I sure hope they can fix it this time, as we really, really, like this motor home.

[Bud10]

I have a 2005 National RV Sea Breeze LX with a w24 Workhorse chassis purchased in July of 2005. I am convinced this is the best driving motorhome chassis available. You never feel like you have to have a death grip on the steering wheel to survive the trip.

Hopefully, a Workhorse Master Mechanics will respond to this. Here is the list of on-going problems I have encountered:

FIRST TRIP:
1.) Shredded part of the engine drive belt. (enough left to get home)
2.) Engine light came on, then reduced power mode, (repeatedly). (no apparent problem.) Advised by service center to keep going and bring it in the next day.

3.) Dash A/C useless in hot weather. Only produces cold air when it is cool outside in the morning.

FIRST REPAIR: No problem engine problem found, replaced drive belt. Blamed National for dash A/C problem, but offered a very expensive upgrade kit. (National blames Workhorse and offers the same thing.)

SECOND TRIP:

1.) Engine light came on, then reduced power mode, (repeatedly). (no apparent problem.)

2.) Dash A/C useless in hot weather. Only produces cold air when it is cool outside in the morning.

SECOND REPAIR:

1.) Code showed defective throttle body, (replaced).

2.) Blamed National for dash A/C problem, but offered a very expensive upgrade kit.

THIRD TRIP:

1.) Engine light came on, then reduced power mode, (repeatedly). (no apparent problem.)

2.) Dash A/C useless in hot weather. Only produces cold air when it is cool outside in the morning.

THIRD REPAIR:

1.) Code showed a defective wire going to the throttle body. Replaced part of the wiring harness going to the throttle body with butt connectors.

2.) Blamed National for dash A/C problem, but offered a very expensive upgrade kit.

FOURTH TRIP:

1.) Engine light came on, then reduced power mode, (repeatedly). (no apparent problem.)

2.) Dash A/C useless. Nothing but HOT air.

FOURTH REPAIR:

1.) Replaced the PCM, (main engine controller).

2.) Replaced A/C compressor and a second part. Didn't have second part with a Workhorse part number on it. So, had to pay for it or wait until Workhorse could send the same part with a Workhorse part number on it. It had been in the shop for a month this time, so just paid for the part.

FIFTH THRU 8TH TRIP:

It's winter now. Ran normally. Dash A/C worked well, but then it was much cooler outside.

NINTH TRIP:

1.) Engine light came on, but did not go into reduced power mode. (no apparent problem.)

2.) Dash A/C works well in the morning and at night. However, only cool air when its hot outside, never as cold as it should be.

FIFTH REPAIR:

1.) No engine problem codes found. No repair done. Told to bring it in sometime when the engine light is still on.

2.) Dash A/C is as good as it's going to get.

TENTH TRIP:

1.) Engine light came on, but did not go into reduced power mode. (no apparent problem.) Drove directly to a Workhorse Service Center.

SIXTH REPAIR:

1.) Found a shorted out injector wire. Repaired. Ran normally for the 250 miles back home.

ELEVENTH TRIP: (Just to my RV dealer for some coach work.)

1.) Two weeks later, coach work done. They started it up to place in the delivery line. Engine light came on, engine sputtering and stalling. On all other occasions, the engine light would go off after shutting down and waiting a while. Not this time, it had to be towed to the nearest Workhorse Service Center.

It remains at the Workhorse Service Center as I write this. I hear it showed 4 different problem codes this time. Outcome is pending.

Although my confidence is badly shaken, I am still certain I purchased the best motorhome chassis available. However, the constant engine electrical problems have me so high up in a lemon tree, I can't see the ground anymore. I sure hope they can fix it this time, as we really, really, like this motor home.

["007"]

Welcome Bud 10 to irv2
Sorry to hear of your problems. The coach builder installed the dash air when they put on their box one of the problems with air is the valve that closes when you put on your air the valve doesn't close completly and allows hot water thru it and the air can not over come this. People have replaced the valve with a ball type plumbing valve and closed the valve during summer season but remember to open for winter operation. If it has been brought to Evens attention they have replaced valve or sent valve to people that have complained loud enough. As to your ECM problems keep on Workhorse about it should be covered because of history on log with your problem. Not sure if they are checking battery and grounding locations for good terminations but should be checked there is a ground post on frame of chassis up front on your motor home I had loose wire nut connections on my coach cleaned and tighten and use star washer to lock in place. There is about 5 wires on this post feeding ckts up front on your fire wall and fuse panels. If your looseing spark plug wires you may have to much heat build up near them and there is a kit to remove this hot air to help elimiate the problem.
I'am going to shot cut your problem to the Workhorse Forum so you will receive more info. Also you can go to "find" just above you and find out more info there also.
Like you say you have a good chassis just hang in there if the center is on the ball they will come thru.
Workhorse does monitor the forum.
Enjoy the other forums on irv2 and post often.

[Gary RVRoamer]

Unfortunately your a/c problems are common and the Evans a/c system that many coach builders add to the basic Workhorse compressor set-up is a piece of crap. In particular the temperature mixing valve that 007 describes. I have a National Dolphon LX that had a similar failure, as have many others. I also had the WH-supplied compressor seize up and literall self-destruct, tearing up the belt just like yours. Then when WH replaced the compresor under warranty, they did not replace the receiver/dryer for the system, leading to a subsequent problem with cooling. I ended up paing for that myself at an a/c shop and also paid for the new temp valve because the coach warranty had expired by then. My system now works, but is not terribly effective during real hot weather. We use the house a/c while traveling anyway, so its a nuisance rather than a major problem.

[M&EM]

Bud10
I had similar a/c experience and many other coach issues that the dealer responded quite poorly to (Bueadry in Mesa). Finally got issues resolve after taking my Dolphin back to factory in Perris, Ca. Was the water valve also!
If you are able, try a factory service visit at Perris. They have most parts on hand there and are experienced specific to your MH. Plan on several days there if you have a lot of coach issues. They have 50 amp and water and a dump in a semi secure area.

[max49]

I can appreciate your sense of humor. And Patience, no wo9nder I have very little, you've got tons of it. Just think if you had'nt chosen the best MoHo chassis made.
Were you kidding or being a little sarcastic when you said that?

[Full-Timers]

Bud10,
I feel your frustration. I too have had what I would call more than my share of Workhorse and Dash Air problems. I would get so frustrated that I mumbled under my breath several times, "Should have bought a Ford"�, although I really didn't mean it. I have had my coach for very close to 3 years now and finally have got to the point where I feel all the bugs are worked out of it. Next month, however the warranty is up, and we all know what that brings. Wish me luck!

[Bud10]

Well, got my MH back yesterday. Turned out is wasn't the engine this time. After repairing some fiberglas damage in the battery bay, the technician connected the house batteries up backwards, running positive to ground. Once the batteries were connected correctly, it was running right again.

Unreal .... Well, we'll see what it does on the next couple of trips. Hopefully, I have seen the last of my engine light.

[Bud10]

I did intstall the ball valves in both of my heater hoses last winter. They did greatly improve the dash A/C. At least it now puts out "cool" air, (still not cold), which is much better than HOT air I used to get.

Attached is a picture of the manuel heater hose ball valves installed. For those who have not done it, I certainly recommend it. I found my heater hose valves at NAPA. They tend to leak a bit when first installed, but don't panic. They will seal up with a little use.

[IMG:left]a:\Ball valve install.jpg[/IMG]

[Full-Timers]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Bud10:
Well, got my MH back yesterday. Turned out is wasn't the engine this time. After repairing some fiberglas damage in the battery bay, the technician connected the house batteries up backwards, running positive to ground. Once the batteries were connected correctly, it was running right again.

Unreal .... Well, we'll see what it does on the next couple of trips. Hopefully, I have seen the last of my engine light. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I would have a hard time believing this one. Doing so would destroy a lot of electronics in your coach like the refrigerator circuit board, heater circuit board, inverter (if equipped), and a lot more. About the only thing that would survive would be the incandescent light bulbs.

[Bud10]

Your thoughts/concerns are exactly the same as mine. At the time, the frig, furnace and inverter were turned off. I still have some testing to do, but so far everything I have tested is working normally. The start/run circuit on the generator appears ok. It started and ran normally. Over the next couple of days, while I clean the shop grease/grime trail out of my carpeting, I will test everything else and see if any damage occurred. I will follow up afterward and let ya'll know how I come out.

It will be interesting to see how long the batteries last now that they have been shorted out to full discharge. I was surprised when they all recharged and seem to be working fine.

[Bud10]

Well, I finished checking all appliances/components and it appears having the house batteries connected backwards, with positive to ground, caused no damage. Everything works normally.

Whew !!!!

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Bud10:
Whew !!!! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I share your enthusiasm.