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Old 08-31-2015, 02:05 PM   #15
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Thanks for the follow up post. Good to know how problems get resolved; fingers crossed it solved the problem.

Love the pictures.

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Old 08-31-2015, 05:46 PM   #16
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Almost 8 hours and no shutdown I've fired up the coffee pot and microwave a couple of time to load it up too. Maybe I got lucky?
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Old 09-01-2015, 05:17 AM   #17
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I'd say skill trumped luck. Way to go!
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Old 09-01-2015, 10:27 AM   #18
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Microwave still has a clock on it, 24 hours later! I'm happy!
Earlier in this thread KJINTF asked about heat issues, which I answered 'no'- That was because up to then I hadn't noticed the soldering on that spade. I just wanted to make a point that YES, heat WAS an issue, otherwise that spade never would've un-soldered itself!
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Old 09-02-2015, 10:51 AM   #19
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Good feeling to figure something out. On the inverter topic, have a Dynamax Isata with small Xantrex inverter. Just figured out the other day that some plugs work with inverter and some not. Always thought there was some glitch but answer is plugs don't work where you might plug something in the inverter can't handle, as kitchen counter area and bath where you might plug a hair dryer for example. Absolutely no mention of this in motor home or inverter printed matter.
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Old 09-04-2015, 10:50 AM   #20
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Great Thread. Thanks for posting the solution.

Initiative and skill once again trump shoddy manufacturing workmanship!
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Old 09-06-2015, 10:03 AM   #21
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The boards are assembled with a wave solder machine where the boards travel over a vat of molten solder and all connections touch the wave and get soldered.Sometimes the surf is down and a few connections get skipped.
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Old 09-08-2015, 01:20 PM   #22
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First, thanks for all the replies--

Second- as much as I hoped my re-solder fixed the problem, it seems I only fixed half the problem. In the past few months of use one of the symptoms has been shutting down when I fire up the microwave or coffee pot. My fix has seemed to have taken care of that problem, as it hasn't shut down at all when using the 110v side of the thing. But it's still shutting down...

When it shuts down, it will kick back on within 3 to 5 minutes, without fail. There's no fault or overhead code on the lights.

If there's any rhyme or reason to it's shutting down NOW, it seems to do it when the battery charger is doing some work, like at night when using a few of the 12v lights, and the charger is working to keep up.

The rig is our 'home base' at our boat harbor while I do boat repairs on weekends. The fridge is full of food, and needs a 12 volt supply to run. Because of this I haven't wanted to turn the charger off to see if that stops the shutdown.

Another thing, for what it's worth- While on vacation I installed a breaker box and connected a 10amp battery charger in place of the inverter. As per the 'house monitor' light board, the charger got the batteries to light all 4 battery lights (low-ok-good-chg). The "chg" light NEVER lights with the Xantrex, even showing 13.5 volts on the display. I suppose it would if I used 'killer charge' mode, but I never have because I've never gotten a battery temp gauge and/or whatever else you need to monitor the batteries when doing a de-cal charge.

Anyway-- the root problem still exists... :(
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Old 09-23-2015, 01:26 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlayItForwrd View Post
Microwave still has a clock on it, 24 hours later! I'm happy!
Earlier in this thread KJINTF asked about heat issues, which I answered 'no'- That was because up to then I hadn't noticed the soldering on that spade. I just wanted to make a point that YES, heat WAS an issue, otherwise that spade never would've un-soldered itself!
Good work taking the unit apart and catching the solder joint issue. Most folk get really faint of heart around electronics/electrical innards.

I'm not sure about heat being the issue as the solder used for those devices would have to see upwards of 360 degrees F to become "unsoldered". Typically what happens (as evidenced by your photos) a solder joint has "cold solder" meaning that the solder has not fully "wetted" to either the circuit pad or the component (in your case the component). Solder joints are both an electrical connection as well as a mechanical connection and both are required to be a good connection for the solder joint to be reliable. Cold solder joints can either be completely disconnected or partially connected however when assembled they look very similar to perfectly fine solder joints. The partially connected ones work fine for a while but over time vibration and thermal cycling can cause the joint to fail. High volume, automated inspection equipment utilized at the manufacturer (AOI equipment) routinely misses cold solder joints as the only tell-tale visual sign of one is usually a dull colored solder joint rather than a shiny one. As someone else mentioned, wave soldering machines are not perfect but when properly set up and monitored, will produce millions of perfectly fine solder joints. The process can get out of whack though. Usually when it does, there's more than one solder joint that may be marginal on the same board or on boards produced in the same run. I'd look at that same board very closely for other solder joints that may look fine but exhibit signs of cold solder. Look for dull gray solder (rather than bright, shiny solder) or very fine (hairline) cracks at the end of the solder joint filet. Should you see some suspicious joints, no need to remove the component, just get some good, aggressive "no-clean" flux and some Sn63Pb37 solder and touch up the solder joint.

I installed and serviced hundreds of Xantrex and Outback inverters and charge controllers in Baja for years. Lots of solder joint issues on their boards (as well as just general quality control issues).
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Old 09-23-2015, 06:12 PM   #24
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Thanks for final post with the probably solution. Most people would be scared to dive into something like this . Always nice to find out what resolves a problem. Will put this in the back of my mind for future reference.
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Old 09-24-2015, 12:38 PM   #25
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Thanks Pilot, good stuff to know, cold solder and all...

I've disconnected it, again, and reconnected the breaker box in place of it. I'll bring it home and tear it down again to inspect the rest of the joints. Or just re-solder all of them for good measure...

If I can find a source for the relays, I'll probably just replace them too.
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