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Old 02-23-2015, 10:07 AM   #1
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08 Honda CRV wiring and charging

I have finished the install of the base plate. I have the Patriot braking system that I am trying to figure out.
What is the best way to make the running lights work and keep the battery charged?

Milton
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Old 02-23-2015, 10:14 AM   #2
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If you use the diode setup for the tail lights, your lights will be on whenever your coach lights are on. As far as the battery, I have towed my Element for 1,300 miles at a time and the battery has been fine, though it is new. I too have to keep the ignition key in to release the steering lock.
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Old 02-23-2015, 10:47 AM   #3
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Thanks,

I guess what I am after is how to wire the coach to the TOAD.

through the 7 pin??
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Old 02-23-2015, 11:05 AM   #4
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Yes, in the 7 pin connector there will be a wire for parking lights, one for the left signal, one for the right signal and a ground. The rest are for brake activation, reverse lights & 12v power. What the diode does is to allow the coach power to light your taillights without back-feeding your car.





You can also find diagrams on the Roadmaster or Blue Ox sites.
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Old 02-23-2015, 12:01 PM   #5
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We are towing a CRV also. Our camper store that installed our towing system on it did not tie into the car lights at all. They added a regular brake/tail light bulb inside of the tail light assembly on the car and tied the wiring into that. The car light system is not spliced or cut into the car lighting system. You just drill I think a 1" hole in the tail light assembly and add a socket that is wired to the motor home wires. I think Blue Ox has the wiring harness to do that with the directions. i saw that as an option and they said that is how they always do that. It saves having a corroded connection to find later down the road. When the Bue Ox brake system actually pushes the brake then the regular car brake light works too because of the key being on. If you apply the brakes on the motor home lightly then the added light comes on and not the car brake lights. If you brake hard and the Blue Ox system activates then you get both brake lights on. The bulb is also the tail light and the blinkers. Works good without having to tie in the car wiring at all.
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Old 02-24-2015, 01:27 PM   #6
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We too have an '08 CR-V. Our OEM lights are used, connected to our coach using a diode. The diodes splice into the tail lights just behind the taillight housing so you'll have to run fresh signal/tail light wires back and across from one side to the other.

With the CR-V, you have to leave your key in the accessories position. This results in a significant power draw and Honda suggests you remove a fuse (identified in your CR-VC Owner's Manual) while towing. The fuse is located above where your left foot rests and it's a little ackward getting at. We found we could go one day and not have a starting problem but if we went two days, the CR-V battery was dead and required a boost. After pulling and re-installing the fuse a number of times I finally broke down and purchased a small wire harness and switch to enable turning off that fused curcuit by merely flipping the switch. I purchased my switch from RoadMaster but I have since seen the same assembly for about 20-30% less from other vendors. Have alook at the Roadmaster assembly and then do a Google search to find a lower cost alternative. One end of the wire haness plugs into the fuse outlet that the fuse came out of and the switch can be installed conveniently in the small black tray below and to the left of the steering column. With the switch off, the radio and assessory plugs are disabled but you can tow for days without draing your battery. The tail lights don't appear to have any noticable effect on battery life. To re-enable the acces. plugs and radio just flip the switch back on.

BTW... Read the CR-V flat tow instructions carefully and follow them exactly. Also be very sure your emergency brake is fully released. If the brake is left on, the repair runs $1200 - $1400.
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Old 02-24-2015, 01:44 PM   #7
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CRV must be different from the Element. I've gone 3 days with no problems. Of course, I do shut it off when we stop for the night.
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Old 02-25-2015, 06:41 AM   #8
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Rod H

Thanks.

I have a question though. I am going to use the patriot braking system and it has to plug into one of the accessory sockets. If you do the fuse switch thing, won't that kill the brake??

Not sure why nobody has mentioned on the battery killing issue (for those that have it) just running a hot wire and ground from the running lights on the coach to the TOAD battery. Run with running lights on and never have an issue.
I guess the other issue with leaving the key either on, or in Accessory is for some reason the car needs power somewhere or is it to run the brake??

Milton
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Old 02-25-2015, 12:32 PM   #9
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I use the Tow Daddy to link RV wiring to CRV. No cutting of factory wiring and even the turn signals work. Here is the link for your 2008 Honda CRV. Tow Bar Wiring for 2008 Honda CR-V - TowDaddy TD3012SK It is a bit pricey, but it works flawlessly and has very good installation instructions.

So you do not have to pull your fuse, check pin # 3 at RV receptacle for 12V dc. If so find that, determine where that pin wire is on your CRV receptacle (mine is at 11 am clock) and run a wire, from CRV receptacle to + 12V battery connection. The wiring cable from RV to CRV will carry the 12V. Also verify ground between RV and CRV. May have to add a ground wire at front CRV wiring receptacle. You can put in an in-line fuse on the +12v dc line to protect wiring to vehicle battery. This way you never have to worry about draining the CRV battery or remembering to remove or re-install the fuse. There is a plug-in replacement fuse with a remote switch you can operate, to turn fused circuit on and off. Some CRV owners use that.

Good Luck!
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Old 02-26-2015, 07:18 AM   #10
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My CRV is a 2011 and the power socket powers up with the key. If you pull the fuse it will kill that socket. I wanted the RV place to rewire that socket in the front to be on all the time by wiring it direct to the battery or connecting it to the RV socket with a diode. I run the Patriot system also. And wanted them to put the charging wire to the car too. They didn't do it and we had to head out for the trip. We left Southern Illinois and drove about 6 hours to Alabama for the night. We unhooked and went to eat and then breakfast in the morning. Then hooked up and drove to Destin, FL. The trip home we went to the same campground in Alabama and did not unhook to go eat. We got within 5 miles from home and the car battery went dead. I unplugged the Patriot and went on home. I carried a jumper unit in the car and started the car right up. So this year when we started the trip I brought along my battery charger/maintainer that I used to keep the battery up through the winter. I put it on the car battery while we camped overnight and plugged it into the outlet on campground power box. It boosted it plenty to finish the trip. The total trip one way is about 11 hours.
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Old 02-26-2015, 07:38 AM   #11
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A comment on the Patriot system. On our first trip down to Florida the brake system alarm came on and I just happened to be at an exit. I pulled off and checked it out. It showed the break away switch activated and set up the car brakes. I unplugged the break away switch and reset the Patriot box without it. I am afraid to try it again. That would be a disaster if that happened in rush hour in the middle of Nashville, TN. The other problem was it kept applying the brake a lot in a hilly area. I set the sensitivity back to 2 or 3. The system defaults at 5 when you turn it on. If you have to slam on the brakes it will still activate OK. Make you up a cheat sheet or copy the page out of the manual on the alarm codes. When it goes off you can see what is happening. The only one that is an emergency is the break away and it will lock up your car brakes. All of the other alarms will just shut off the brake system so you can get to a safe place to check on it. Now I need to troubleshoot the break away switch before I hook it back up. Hopefully just a bad connection on the plug inside or at the bumper.
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Old 02-26-2015, 08:26 AM   #12
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Shaman52,

PERFECT!
I knew there had to be something like that. No drilling, no splicing. That is sort of like the mods I have done on Honda Motorcycles for additional lighting.
One question, did you install the diode box under the hood or in the back? the wiring picture looks like there is enough wire to do it either way.
Thanks kb9tf also. Really good hint.

Now all I need to do is get going somewhere.

Milton
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Old 02-26-2015, 06:08 PM   #13
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I put the diode box in the back. Took me most of a day to wire from front of vehicle, along driver's side sill plate to rear. Honda CRV interior panels are fairly easy to pull loose. Suspect a good shop could install the wiring faster than me, but I took my time and did it right. Good Luck.
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Old 02-26-2015, 08:54 PM   #14
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I was able to fish the frame and run the wiring concealed underneath my Element.
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