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Old 10-12-2010, 03:39 PM   #15
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All the above a re great ideas. I also use a check list when setting up & tearing down. To the OP, glad you got it taken care of and not at a big expense. Happy motoring.

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Old 10-12-2010, 08:10 PM   #16
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In order to help get the pins out, I carry a brass hammer and some brass drifts in my 'tow tool bag'. That way I can tap out the steel pins without them deforming.

Bigdog - that idiot tailgating you is a GOOD sign. There's another recent post where the poor guy lost his towed Jeep into a field!

Tom and Katharine
'07 Winnebago Tour 40TD, 400hp Cummins
'17 Winnebago View 24V, '02 R-Vision B+
RVing for 19 years & 150,000+ miles
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Old 10-12-2010, 08:16 PM   #17
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lmao you guys are great!!! Yes, I have a checklist in the Jeep for putting it in neutral. I haven't unhitched the Jeep from the Beav since leaving the rv shop yesterday so I haven't had to think about hooking it back up. But I know what you mean about not having anyone around while you're doing it. Quick way to miss a step.

I have 2 keys for the Jeep so I just keep one in the ignition and lock the doors. So far, all is good. Oh!! I do take a look and make sure the wheels are turning on the Jeep!!!

It feels wonderful to know that I'm in such good company!!

Thanks for all the words of encouragement.
Janshark in a 1991 Beaver Marquis and a Jeep Wrangler (the Beavertail) towed with a Blue Ox Aventa II towbar and M&G aux brake system.
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Old 10-12-2010, 09:12 PM   #18
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That was get a dummy key right ?not get a key, dummy?
One thing that I forgot was that I have an extra surge brake pin in the toad and the shop wired in a switch under the hood that cuts out the surge brake when you're not towing so that if someone pulls the pin you're not SOL..
'01 Tradewinds 7390 LTC
2011 Jeep Liberty
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Old 10-12-2010, 09:48 PM   #19
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One thing that I like to do when first starting out is to turn up the volume on back-up camera. A Jeep Grand Cherokee will squeal pretty loud if the steering wheel isn't unlocked or the transfer case isn't in neutral. Only did it once and that was enough. Besides, I like to hear that Cat diesel purr every now and then. Once I'm sure everything is good, I turn the volume down (off)
Denny, Connie & Shadow (former barn cat made good)
2006 Tiffin Phaeton, Cat C7, Freightliner Chassis
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Old 10-13-2010, 07:20 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by BZam View Post
One rule I have if anyone comes along and wants to watch or chat while I am hooking up the toad, I back off an only do it by myself without any distraction.

Also, when I pull away and make the first turn I watch the wheels in the toad from the mirrors to see it tracking OK. Then I stop, put on my flashers, and go out and check the hitch and that the transmission is in neutral and check the lights on the toad.
Those are two very good pieces of advice. Many of the people who get themselves into trouble with toads didn't follow them. It is very easy to get distracted from what is otherwise a fairly simple procedure that only takes a minute or two. People talk to you are want to help and suddenly you've forgotten to hook up a safety cable or worse.

I figure that we might be towing without stopping for several hours after we hook up. I always have the backup camera on but it won't show you all of the problems. That second stop right after hooking up as a double check can allow you to detect those problems.
2000 Georgie Boy Landau 36' DP
2005 Saturn Vue toad
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Old 10-13-2010, 09:20 AM   #21
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I don't understand the problem with getting the tow bar pins out. I use a Blue Ox Aventta II tow bar. This tow bar has locks when it extends. This way when you hook up it can be a little closer than need be. After pinning I reverse the toad to lock the arms of the bar.

This is also your friend when unhooking. I have my wife inch the toad forward as I release the arm locks, then place the vehicle in park with the park brake on. This gives plenty of slack in the arms to wiggle them around and make pin removal simple by hand. I've done it on angles and straight with the same results.

When by myself, I choose an area slightly down hill and release the locks on the arms with the park brake on the first notch. This usually give me the slack I need to unhook. Once I make sure I can remove the first pin easily, I fully apply the park brake on the toad as well as re-engage the transfer case before removing the second.

Haven't needed a hammer yet nor have I needed to reposition the coach.
Tommy Parker
2007 Newmar Kountry Star 3914, ISL400
2001 Jeep Cherokee toad, M&G brake/2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland
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Old 10-13-2010, 08:17 PM   #22
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You'd get a long way if you tow for 100 years! I assume the "y" should be a "d".

Frank Damp -Anacortes, WA,(DW- Eileen)
ex-pat Brits (1968) and ex-RVers.
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