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Old 02-26-2015, 04:14 PM   #1
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20 amp Stay-in-play fuse keeps blowing

Not sure where to post this, but I'll try here. Yesterday, I had a Stay-in-play installed on 2013 Chevy Sonic. Road tested around the block...all was well. Took it home...3-5 miles into the trip, S-I-P stops working...brake lites wired to come on when coach brake is activated still worked, but no pwr to the S-I-P system.

Got home, replaced the fuse and road tested it. 3 miles later, same problem. Called the shop. They were very nice but perplexed...said never experienced this b4. They called S-I-P distr. and was told Start up only draws 12 or so amps so they were perplexed as well. I tested again with new fuse and drove in hvy traffic...worked well for 7 miles then just stopped (blew out) again. I changed the fuse and pulled emergency breakaway stop pin to do a sustained activation of the system thinking it may overload the system after too many seconds thus blowing the fuse...30 seconds of continual application of the system was fine...it hung in there. Now I'm waiting for the shop to call me to slip me in to check the system out but I'm not encouraged by their tone. again, they're very nice but admits they havn't got a clue what it could be.

It can't be a pinched wire...it would blow immediately on powering up. Can't be an overload on a sustained application of the brakes...tried that for 30 seconds and during driving, I never kept my foot on the pedal for longer than 5-7 seconds.

A bit more background:

I have it wired for electrical feed from the RV to generate a charge to the toad battery thus eliminating the need for a fuse by-pass. I also had a hardwire run from the toad brake system to a direct lighted indicator on the RV dash, Keep in mind, the hardwired red light indicator on my dash is somehow (I never asked for the tech details) designed to show when the stay in play brakes are activated on the toad, not necessarily that the toad brake lights come on. That means when the fuse to the S-I-P brake system blows and I lose the ability to activate the S-I-P toad brake system, I lose the red dash indicator light as well, but...the toad brake lights still come on when I step on the brakes in the coach. (did I just make that clear as mud???)

I'm getting extremely frustrated with buying stuff for this RV, including the new RV itself just to spend days and sometimes weeks on end driving back and forth to the dealer/shop to fix the new "thingamajig" I just bought.Has anyone here got any ideas?
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Old 02-26-2015, 08:48 PM   #2
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Well for sure you've got a problem but it is not your red light in the coach the tell tail light gets it's power directly from the toad brake light switch so when the toad brake lights come on so does the tell tail light.

One of these days I'll get around to running a wire to the front of mine for the light.

As a stop gap measure if needed think about using a circuit breaker instead of the fuse, same 20 amp rating. I use a standard ATO20 fuse on mine with no problem.

It's such a simple system to install the wiring procedure they used really needs to be rechecked by them.
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Old 03-02-2015, 10:53 PM   #3
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I had the exact same issue and was drawing 20 amps or higher when the brakes were on and blowing the fuse every 200 mi or so. The SIP had been fine for several months and about 4000 miles of use. I called SMI and they sent me out a replacement pump box and all is fine now. Taking about 10 - 12 amps when brakes on.
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Old 03-03-2015, 03:09 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dsmullen View Post
I had the exact same issue and was drawing 20 amps or higher when the brakes were on and blowing the fuse every 200 mi or so. The SIP had been fine for several months and about 4000 miles of use. I called SMI and they sent me out a replacement pump box and all is fine now. Taking about 10 - 12 amps when brakes on.
Wow!!! Thanks so much for that info. I brought the car in and they checked it the other day. They told me they "believe" they "may" have found a ground issue that "may have" been causing the problem. My wife has been using the car since then so I haven't had a chance to hook it up and try it out...but I will by the end of this week. If the problem continues, I will certainly talk to them about your posting...thanks again!
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Old 03-06-2015, 06:55 AM   #5
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I have the stay in play system in my Jeep. It came with the Jeep when I purchased it in Dec 2014. I have never messed with it. I'm not even sure the system even works. I was told I can check it by pulling the breakaway switch. When i'm done with the test do I just push the pin back in the switch body?
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Old 03-06-2015, 09:49 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepersrus View Post
When i'm done with the test do I just push the pin back in the switch body?
That's all there is to do.
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Old 03-07-2015, 12:38 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepersrus View Post
I have the stay in play system in my Jeep. It came with the Jeep when I purchased it in Dec 2014. I have never messed with it. I'm not even sure the system even works. I was told I can check it by pulling the breakaway switch. When i'm done with the test do I just push the pin back in the switch body?
Before you check the system by pulling the pin make sure the on/off switch is "on" The switch is inside the cabin in the footwell, probably bolted to the side of the footwell.
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Old 03-07-2015, 06:45 AM   #8
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I'll give it a shot and see what happens. I know right where that switch on the inside is. Thanks for the info.
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Old 03-18-2015, 01:58 AM   #9
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Talking I bought a used Stay and Play

I bought my Stay an Play off of ebay and installed it myself into a 2008 Lincoln MKX. The only problem I encountered was getting another check valve, which I had to order from the manufacturer on their customer service number. I followed their directions and what a relief to just turn on a switch to have toad brakes.
If your dealer hasn't fixed the problem keep at them til they do. Another recourse is to contact Motorhome Magazine and they have a negotiator who will contact all parties and get it resolved.
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Old 03-18-2015, 03:43 AM   #10
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A bad ground will not cause a fuse to blow. A pinched wire will. Someone needs to run their hand over every inch of that wire. If the fuse still blows, disconnect it at the box and try again. If fuse does not blow, take the cover off the box and look for a wire that can make contact when the vehicle hits a bump. Don't push and tug on any wires at first. Just bang the heck out of it like you are hitting railroad tracks.
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Old 03-18-2015, 11:51 AM   #11
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Well...since they went over it weeks ago, I've taken it out...up grades, down grades, across very bumpy roads (deliberate speed bumps going into Lake Skinner in Temecula Ca) and retiurned home...no problem. But...I'm gonna check something when my wife gets home with the car...and I hope I don't find it....I'm gonna look to see if the dealer put a higher amp fuse in it's place. All hell will break loose if I find that. I may be getting ahead of myself. Maybe the problem is fixed...we'll see. I'll post my findings. Thanks all.
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Old 03-19-2015, 07:00 AM   #12
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Stay In Play update

Well I checked mine out to see if it would work when I pulled the break away switch out. I'm happy to report that the system appears to work just fine. I pulled out the switch pin and I heard what sounded like a compressor and my brake pedal was pushed down by the actuator just like its suppose to.
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